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Ten Months on 
the Wing 



By MRS. JOHN W. POE 



{>-L 




Roswell, New Mexico 
1916 



PIS' 







JAh i3 i3i9 



DEDICATED 
TO MY DEAR SISTERS 



Ten Months on the Wing 

By MRS. JOHN W. POE 



March 24th, 1913. — My dear Sisters: You will no 
doubt be surprised to receive a letter from me dated from 
New York, and more especially to learn that we "birds 
of passage^' are again on the wing. 

This is to be a longer flight than any we have yet 
made, perhaps extending well on to a year, as we contem- 
plate encircling the globe. 

I shall treat the narrative of our journey in the form 
of a journal, in order that you may keep track of our 
movements, our various experiences and impressions. 

"We left the "Eoswell Nest" at seven-thirty on the 
morning of the 21st. We arrived in Kansas City the next 
day about half-past three; were in Chicago at seven-thirty 
the following day. We were pleasantly surprised in meet- 
ing Mr. P. on the train this morning. He is going to 
New York to meet his daughter and son-in-law, Mr. and 
Mrs. C, who are returning from their bridal tour abroad, 
and are to arrive in New York on the 26th. They sailed 
from Naples on the steamship Adriatic. 

March 24th. — We arrived in New York at three- 
thirty P. M. and are stopping at our favorite hotel, the 
Prince George. 

March 25th, 26th and 27th were spent in prepar- 
ing for our tour. 

March 28th. — Today is Friday. Our friend, Mr. S., 
took us to the Clearing House. AVe saw the clerks clear 



4 Ten M ontlis on the Wing. 

two hundred and seventy-four million dollars in eight 
minutes, and they said it was a dull day. 

We then went down to Wall Street, and saw the 
brokers dealing in stocks. The men on the Street were 
communicating with each other by the deaf and dumb 
method of talking. We went to the Stock Market, and 
then to the top of the Singer Building to get a panoramic 
view of the city. 

We visited Old Trinity Church and Cemetery. The 
day was very happily spent in reviewing with our friend 
old times out West. 

March 29th. — Our ship, the Adriatic, sailed at high 
noon today. Mr. S. came down to bid us "adios." A 
smooth sea gives promise of a pleasant voyage. 

March 30th, Sunday. — Such a beautiful day! Wc 
attended divine service at ten o'clock; heard a good ser- 
mon by an English clergyman. 

March 31st. — The sea has been quite rough today. 

April 1st. — A quiet day. We received, by wireless, 
news of the death of J. P. Morgan. 

April 2nd. — This has been another fine day. There 
is joy in being at sea when the weather is good and the 
waves not too rough. 

"With the blue above, 
And the blue below. 
And silence where-so-e'er you go." 
There were some sports on deck at eleven o'clock, such 
as potato racing, wringing the monkey, et cetera. 

April 3rd. — We saw our first ship since leaving New 
York this afternoon. The stokers' band played on the 
second cabin deck in the evening. 



Ten Months on the W i^ig . 5 

April 4th. — We saw the Olympic this afternoon, 
but not near enough to tell what she looks like. The day 
has been quite cold. The daily paper, "The Ocean News," 
gives us most of the important happenings of the universe. 
Received news of the Balkan war today. 

Apeil 5th. — Arrived at Queenstown Harbor at ten 
o'clock tonight. The waves were so high that the tender 
could not come in alongside the quay. After maneuver- 
ing around for more than an hour, the Adriatic had finally 
to run into the harbor. Even then it was with great dif- 
ficulty we were docked. It was one o'clock ere we reached 
the Custom House, and two by the time we reached tlie 
Queenstown Hotel. 

April 6th. — We slept until nine o'clock, it being 
Sunday. After breakfast we left for Cork — the trip takes 
thirty minutes, and costs thirty cents. 

The hills are already green and daisies dot the pad- 
docks, while the golden gorse makes the landscape bright 
and the rhododendrons are great clumps of crimson. A 
bright blue slcy is over all. 

We are at the Metropole Hotel, where we stopped six 
years ago, and J. has already been taken for an Irishman. 

April 7th. — We went out to Blarney Castle today 
in a jaunting car, with a youth whose brogue was as 
broad as the road. He showed us some labourers' cottages 
which he said rented for ten shillings per annum, with nn 
acre of ground attached to each cottage. J. said, "Who 
owns these houses?" "Why, sor, the man they rent them 
from." — (An Irish bull.) 

The scenery is unsurpassed in rural loveliness. The 
sun shone bright, although the air was cool for us "New 
Mexicans." We always enjoy Ireland and its people. 

April 9th. — We left Cork at noon and were in Lim- 
erick by three-forty. Are stopping at Cruses Eoyal Hotel. 



6 Ten Months on the Wing. 

We walked to the Eiver Shannon and saw the monu- 
ment erected to Fitzgerald^ wdio fell at Balaklava in 
1855. 

April 10th. — Today we employed a jaunting car and 
driver and visited some places of interest — a monument 
to Sarsfield, hero of 1790 and 1791; also a monument to 
Daniel O'Connell; and the old wall which was used as a 
defense against Cromwell and William of Orange. Very 
interesting to us was St. Mary's Cathedral, founded in 
1142 by King O'Brien of Munster. This contains many 
ancient tombs and relics. Among them a pipe-organ one 
hundred and fifty years old; also a chandelier one hundred 
and fifty years old. The tombs of the O'Briens, dating 
back to 1135. The nodding-stools of the monks were all 
hand-carved. This is where they recited the Miserere. At 
times in this service they stood up all night. The nodding - 
stools were so arranged that they could half-way sit on. 
them, but if they felt too sleepy to stand longer, the seats 
dropped, letting them sit down. In one chapel there is a 
skeleton walled in, while under the floor are the bones of 
those who were executed during the Eestoration. These 
bones lie in a pile five feet deep. Out in the grounds are 
two stone ornaments from the home of General Ireton, 
son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. His home was destroyed 
during the siege. The original altar-piece and baptismal 
font are in one of the chapels. The stone slab of the al- 
tar is twelve feet long and eleven inches thick. 

We met the Dean of St. Mary's as we came out. He 
stopped us to inquire if we had enjoyed the Cathedral. 
He, and one other person, are the only surviving descend- 
ants of the Kings of Munster. When he learned our 
name, he said, "That is a good Irish name, we pronounce 
it Po-e." He told us that there are two families of Poes 
living near Leda, in Tipperar)?, who own fine estates — no 
doubt they are relatives. 

Speaking of St. Mary's, the Dean told us of the se- 
cret stairways, now walled in, which formerly connected 



Ten Months on the Wing. 7 

the Cathedral with the castle of King John and the prison. 

We went to see the Treaty Stone, erected in com- 
memoration of the Peace Edict. 

Limerick is a city of 35,000 inhabitants. It has no 
street cars, but is quite a manufacturing center. Stock- 
raising is the chief industry of the surrounding country. 

April 11th. — Eailroad Hotel, Galway, — Arrived here 
at ten o'clock last night. We have been to see Lynch's 
Memorial Stone, and the window from which he hanged 
his own son. The story is that Lynch, who was chief 
magistrate, had visiting him from Spain a young cava- 
lier. Lynch's son became jealous of the Spaniard's atten- 
tion to a certain damsel and murdered him in cold blood. 
The boy was convicted and sentenced to hang, but there 
was no one who would perform this duty, as his father 
was chief magistrate. They refused to have anything to 
do with it; whereat, the father took the law into his own 
hands, and hanged his son from a window of his castle. 
This is the origin of the word, "lynch law." 

We then visited St. ISTicholas Church, built in 1330. 
It contains some peculiar old tombs, among them that of 
the Lynches. Their crest was a lynx. There are several 
tombs marked with emblems of the trade or profession of 
the departed — such as a pair of scissors for a draper, a 
set of hammers for a goldsmith, et cetera. 

We went out to the Wier Bridge to see the salmon 
coming up to spawn, but the v/ater was too deep to see 
them. 

Tonight we went to the show; they played "When 
Bunty Pulls the Strings." 

April 12th. — We left Galway at nine-forty and ar- 
ribed at Sligo about two-thirty. There was a Mtr, Kilroe 
on the train, who lives at Sligo. He was an entertaining 
fellow-traveler and showed us the places of interest on 
the road. One of the singular sights was an ancient 
bridge on which tall pine trees were growing. 



8 Ten Months on the Wing. 

"We are stopping at the Eamsey. 

After lunch we went to see the Sligo Cathedral, 
founded in 1130. Here we met an ancient son of Erin, 
who showed us the place. His name was Gal lager. He 
had a marvelous fund of Irish lore stored up in his "bel- 
fry." During the cholera scourge of 1833 many people 
were buried here. The remains lie ten feet deep, so the 
old man said. Then came the famine and added its vic- 
tims to the pile. The English government appropriated 
a sum of money to preserve the old ruins of Ireland. This 
cathedral is now undergoing restoration. This old man 
(the keeper of the cathedral) has spent his life here, never 
having been away from Sligo. He is now seventy-eight 
years old. His principal occupation is taking people out 
to Holy Well. This is some three miles from the town. 
The journey is made by river and lake. We let him row 
us out this afternoon. The day was fine and the river 
Garavogue is very beautiful — broad, and clear as crystal; 
its source is Lough Gall. The scenery is almost as lovely 
as Killarney. Mr. Gallager was full of poetry and song; 
he recited from Tom Moore and Goldsmith. 

One interesting legend was about a certain tableland 
on the top of the mountain. The King of Connaught 
forced his young and charming daughter to marry the 
Prince of Munster, a one-eyed man. She was in love with 
a son of the King of Leinster. After her marriage she 
carried on a clandestine correspondence with her former 
lover. Her husband sent her on a pilgrimage to this table- 
land, where there was a certain shrine. She sent word to 
her lover to meet her there, and then crossed the river on 
a feather bed as a boat. (Beds were enclosed in wicker 
baskets at that time.) When her husband came to join 
his wife, she had flown with her lover. 

In order to avenge himself, her father wrote King 
James of England that if he, would send an army to in- 
vade Ireland he would throw his forces and influence in 
with England and so conquer the country. James sent 
Harry Hotspur over, and a battle was fought on this spot, 



Ten M onths on the W ing . 9 

which is kno^m as the most historical spot in Ireland, be- 
ing the place where the English fought and won the first 
victory over the Irish. Mr. Gallager said this is not fic- 
tion, but history. 

We landed in an inviting woodland, where there is a 
shrine and a spring called Holy Well. We drank of the 
healing waters and gathered primroses on the brink. 

Sligo is picturesquely situated among sylvan woods 
and hills and is adjacent to a pellucid lake, where one 
may enjoy the sport of reel and rod. 

Going to Galway, we changed cars at Athenry, and 
again on coming to Sligo. Starting from the hotel at ten 
A. M., (for Londonderry) we found that we had to change 
cars at Enniskillen. I got off for a moment and the train 
pulled out and left us. On leaving the train I asked the 
guard if we had five minutes, and he said we did. We 
had to wait six hours, and, although the town is full of 
interesting places, we were too disappointed to enjoy it. 

April 15tii. — Eeached Londonderry at nine P. M., 
and are at the City Hotel. This is a city with a popula- 
tion of 40,000 and quite a busy place, comparatively 
speaking. It contains much of interest historically. 
Among other things is a splendid old wall enclosing the 
older part, built by the English for protection against the 
warring tribes of Ireland. It withstood the siege of 1688. 
James II of England besieged the place for eight months; 
cannon, which were placed on the top of the Cathedral of 
St. Colombo, threw shells over into the enemy's line. In 
the old church is a cannon ball fired over the wall of the 
city. It contains in its hollow a message from James 
demanding in very harsh terms the surrender of the city; 
however, it held firm, and he was forced to make terms to 
suit the inhabitants. 

The Prince of Orange also besieged the town and 
was successfully withstood. The wall is broad enougli for 
two autos to pass one another on its top. 

Our landlord, Mr. O'Kane, is a genial host. He says 



10 Ten Months on the Wing. 

he knows that I am Irish because I have such a sunny 
disposition, and see the ludicrous side of things, 

April 16th. — Came down to Drogheda today. White 
Horse Hotel is not noted for comfort. It rained all day 
and we felt cold and damp. They made a fire for us; 
they cannot understand our being so cold-blooded. 

Apeil 17th. — We went to Balrath Burry to visit 
Anna's father and mother; spent a pleasant day talking* 
about their daughters. Eeturned to the hotel at eight 
P. M. 

April 18th. — Employed a driver and jaunting car 
and drove to all the places of note. We went about 
twenty-four miles. First, we visited King William's 
Glen, where we stood on the battle-field of the Boyne, and 
beheld the obelisk commemorative of the heroes of the 
battle. 

From there we went to the Douth's Cave, v/hicli is an 
ancient druidical burying-place ; we climbed dowii a lad- 
der and squeezed our way through a narrow passag'3 into 
the burial-chamber, built up of great stone slabs and arch- 
ed over vfith a degree of accuracy that astonishes one to 
behold. There is a ■sacrificial stone where bodies were cre- 
mated before being placed in the tomb. 

There is a still larger cave at New Grange, discov- 
ered by accident about seventy years ago. The mound, o^ 
hill, was thought to be a natural elevation covered with 
rocks, as are many of the surrounding hilU, until the 
owner of the estate decided to build a new mansion. He 
needed some large flags for the foundation, and had no- 
ticed several protruding from the foot of the hill. In ex- 
cavating, he discovered that they were marked over the 
surface in queer hieroglyphics. They continued excavat- 
ing, and found that the hill was entirely artificial, having 
been built by the hands of an ancient race. 

There is a large chamber containing two large sacri- 



Ten M onths on the W ing . 11 

ficial stones, a sarcophagus, and several small apartments. 
Many of the wall-markings are simihir to those we see in 
the Eito cle los Frijoles in New Mexico, U. S. A. Wo 
had to crawl on our hands and knees to get through tho 
narrow entrance. There was a corpulent gentleman here 
last autumn who could not squeeze in "to save his life," 
and went away greatly disappointed in consequence, as 
he was particularly interested in archaeology. 

We thought of our friend Mr. Hewitt. How he 
would have enjoyed and understood these particular 
ruins ! 

We drove to Mellifont Abbey, founded in 1133 and 
destroyed during the reign of Henry A^II, 1342. Tt v.as 
only recently excavated, having been entirely covered up 
until some fifty years ago. The abbey was formerly a 
great seat of learning. Men from all parts of the world, 
as then known, came here to seek instruction from the 
learned monks. There is one well-preserved window wliich 
is the delight of artists, who come from long distances to 
make drawings of it; also of the gargoyles and cornices. 
One small corner of the beautiful tiling was found intact 
and is still preserved in its original location ; but most of 
the floor was found scattered over the entire ruins. Crom- 
well finished the destruction begun by Henry, and the ma- 
jority of Catholic fanes were destroyed. 

From here we went to Monasterboice to see the fa- 
mous old Cross and Round Tower. The cross is of very 
ancient design, and contains strange figures and v/ritings. 
It is supposed to be the most ancient of Christian jnonu- 
ments in Ireland. The Tower is all of eightv feet high 
and fifty feet in circumference. There are many different 
theories in regard to these towers. The most {jiausible, to 
me, is that they were built for the protection of the monks 
who slept in them, for as they had different Hoors all Ihe 
way up, they could climb up and pull the '!-idd!rs after 
them, thus being safe from their enemies. This theory is 
based on the fact that the towers are always built near the 
abbey. 



12 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Mr. Balfour has a magnificent demesne and mansion 
overlooking the Boyne. 

We drove through another large estate to see an old 
hall, over four hundred years old. 

Apeil 19th. — Came down to Dublin last evei.ing, 
stopping at the Shelbourn. 

April 20th. — We went to see "Quo Vadis" at the 
Phoenix Picture Palace, the finest picture show we have 
ever witnessed. I feel certain that the drama could not 
portray the scene half so accurately — the pictures were 
all in colors. 

We are sorry not to be able to go to the Vale of 
Avoca, where "The Wild Waters Meet," but it is out of 
season to go there. We should have enjoyed going to the 
site of Tara's Hall, but we are too early for that also. 

Holy Head. — We came over on the seven o'clock boat 
from Dublin and took the train for Chester, arriving at 
two A. M.— (Railroad Hotel.) 

April 21st. — Chester is on the river Dee. We have 
walked about six miles, all around the old wall, climbed 
up in the Tower of Charles I, from whence he viewed 
the defeat of his army. Chester was a Eoman camp in 
48 A. D. 

St. John's Church was founded here in 689 by King 
Ethelred. In 1057, Leofric, King of Mercia, restored the 
church. Some claim that King Harold, after fleeing 
from the battle of Hastings, lived here in a cell with th(j 
monks. In 1075 St. John's became a cathedral for the 
three cities of Lichfield, Coventry and Chester. It is 
now a picturesque old ruin, covered with ivy. 

The College of St. John was dissolved by orders of 
Edward VI in 1548, when part of the church was torn 
down and the lead from the roof and the bells were melted 
and sold. Cromwell used this church as a shelter for his 
army. At one time De Quincey lived in a part of the 



Ten Months, on the W ing . 13 

ruins, and here he wrote the "Confessions of an Opium 
Eater." 

Chester Cathedral was founded either by Wulphecns, 
King of Mercians, 606, or by his daughter, Saint Werbury. 
The present building was begun in 1093 and finished in 
1194. Some years later the Duke of Monmouth and his 
followers damaged the organ and several of the fine win- 
dows, but it was entirely restored by Thomas Harrison in 
1683. The tower is one hundred and seven feet high. 

The two main streets of the city cross each other at 
right angles. They were cut out of the rocks by the Eo- 
mans. The houses are curiously arranged on these streets 
—the upper story, for some sixteen feet, forms a continu- 
ous promenade open in front, where there are pillars and 
steps from the street below. The private houses above arc 
owned by one family, while the lower floor is owned by 
another family. Neither can improve or demolish its part 
without the consent of the other. 

April 22nd. — Dear Sisters: We came over to Lon- 
don today, and are stopping at the Bedford Hotel, on 
South Hampton Eow. It is an old place, much patron- 
ized by the English on account of its proximity to the 
shopping district and the British Museum. We stopped 
here six years ago. 

April 23rd. — We went to the picture show tonight ; 
heard an Italian singer. Many of the play houses have 
been turned into picture palaces. 

We enjoyed a ride on the 'bus out into the suburbs. 

April 24th. — J. went to look up Mr. Stevens at 28 
Corn Exchange, while I took a walk down Oxford Street. 
Mr. Stevens called and spent the evening. His wife is in 
New York. 

April 25th. — We spent the morning in the manu- 
script Department of the Museum. One could spend a 



14 Ten Months on the Wing. 

month profitably in this department alone, there is so 
much to learn. We wandered on through the Ethnologi- 
cal Depaitments of America, China, Japan and the Isl- 
ands of the Pacific. 

The best way to see London is from the top of a 'bus. 
We went down New Oxford to Victoria Station, and then 
out the opposite direction to Ley ton Green, near Epping 
Forest. 

April 36th. — Mr. Stevens came and went with us to 
Hyde Park and Park Lane, where are the residences of 
the aristocracy and the palace occupied by Whitelaw 
Eeid; then through Kensington Gardens. In the evening 
we went to the picture show. 

April 27th. — This is Sunday. We went with Mr. 
Stevens on a long 'bus ride to Hampton Court, walked 
through the beautiful grounds, and went into the chapel 
where Cardinal Wolsey was accustomed to preach to 
Henry VIII and his several wives. No one is allowed to 
enter except during the hours of service. This is owing 
to the fear that suffragettes may destroy it. We went 
through the Kew Gardens on our return. 

April 28th. — Today we went to see the King review 
his troops in Hyde Park. There was a great military dis- 
play — thousands of soldiers, with their scarlet coats and 
bear-skin caps, brass bands, a Highland band, and many 
civilians were in the parade. His Majesty rode on horse- 
back, while the Queen rode in a carriage with the young 
princess. The Queen is almost puritanical in her habits 
and in the rearing of her children, but is not so well l)e- 
loved as the Queen Dowager, who understood the hearts 
of the people better. 

After lunch we went to the Army and Navy Store, 
where I bought a mufl: of sable to match my stole. W(4 
ate lunch at Selfrig's the American Department Store. 
There is a lovely roof garden (similar to that of the Hotel 



Ten M ontlis. on the Wing. lo 

La Salle in Chicago), where an orchestra dispenses sweet 
music the while you eat. We then went to the Bank of 
England and to St. Paul's. In the evening, Mr. Stevens 
called. 

Apeil 29th. — This morning we went to Eiling, a 
beautiful suburb, where the Stevens' used to live. We 
spent a pleasant hour in the park and came back to the 
hotel by another route. In the evening Mr. Stevens came 
and we went to Scala Theatre to see the Kinemacolors. 
Saw the King reviewing his troops (all in colors), the 
very scene we had witnessed at Hyde Park two days pre- 
viously. Then they showed some talking pictures, that 
moved and talked at the same time. 

April 30th. — After lunch we spent several hours in 
the Museum. Especially enjoyed the Egyptian vases and 
the Anthropological Department. To me, these mum- 
mies are the most pathetic things imaginable. Think of 
having your poor earthly remains handed around and ex- 
hibited to people for a thousand years after the soul had 
departed! One (to me) especially pathetic was a young 
girl with a metal wreath on her brow and her comb tucked 
in the side of her hair. How much to be preferred is the 
thought of "ashes to ashes, dust to dust" ! 

May 1st. — We went out to the Crystal Palace by 
electric tram. This palace was built for the first World's 
Exposition, in 1851. It was at that time quite near the 
center of the city. Some 5^ears since it was moved to its 
present location, and is now used as a permanent exhibi- 
tion and entertainment place, with a scenic railway, chutes 
and other amusements. The decorations are cheap. Most 
of the statuary is a reproduction of the original. Lyons 
have branches of their tea-houses here and a very nice 
lunch may be had at small cost. There is a monkey-and- 
parrot hall and a small aquarium. From the upper gal- 
lery a fine view may be had of the surrounding country. 



16 Ten Months on the W ing . 

Every Thursday night there is a pyrotechnical display and 
good music. 

In the evening we went to a "movie" on N'ew Oxford 
Street. We are learning much about London from the 
top of the 'buses and can find our way without difficulty. 

May 2nd. — This morning J. went to Cook's to make 
inquiry about Norway, Whom should he run across but 
our guide of six years ago, Guido Cappo, who faithfully 
guided us when we traveled through Spain and Morocco. 
He is still with Cook's" and was delighted to meet J. again. 
He informed J. that we shall need a passport* for Pales- 
tine and India; so J. proceeded to interrogate the Ameri- 
can embassy, and found that he will be obliged to write 
back to Washington for a passport, and the same will h3 
forwarded to us at Rome. In the afternoon we went out 
to Golders' Green on the 'bus. It is in the northwestern 
part of the city, near Hampstead Heath. Mr. Stevens 
called after tea to make arrangements for a day's outing 
at Croydon tomorrow. 

May 3rd. — The day has been rather cool and cloudy, 
but well suited to our purpose. We met Mr. Stevens at 
London Bridge Station at eleven-thirty, and took the train 
for Croydon, which is about twelve miles from London, 
It is a pleasant city of 167,000 inhabitants; or rather there 
are three cities. South Croydon, East Croydon and West 
Croydon. Arriving at the station, we walked through the 
city and park and out into the country; through lanes 
bordered by green trees and hedges; through fields of 
grass and daisies; through woods where the ground is 
covered with violets and anemones, interspersed with blue- 
bells; where the cuckoo is calling to his mate (the first 
we have ever heard), and the thrush and blackbird were 
chanting matins to the spring; where the "young man's 
fancy often turns to thoughts of love" — as was very evi- 



*This we found was unnecessary later. 



Ten Months, on the Wing. 17 

dent from the numerous lovers strolling by, or sitting 
hand clasped in hand, or an arm encircling a slender 
waist, regardless of passersby. The blackbird of England 
is not the disreputable, harsh-voiced bird that comes in 
flocks to our alfalfa fields. He is much smaller and his 
song resembles in sweetness and variety that of our mock- 
ingbird. In fact, we mistook it for the latter until other- 
wise informed. 

A footpath led us through a lovely dale and up a 
hill on which is situated the reservoir that supplies the 
city water. Here we stopped at a tea-house, where we en- 
joyed a good substantial lunch. This we relished the 
more on account of our climb. Continuing our climb, we 
reached a high point where we had a splendid view of 
Pearly and Pearly Oaks, two pretty towns. Altogether, 
we walked seven miles or more. 

On returning to the city, we took a 'bus from i\vi 
Station and were home in time for tea. It was our in- 
tention to go to White Chapel tonight to see the noted 
London slums, but it rained and spoiled our plans. We 
are told to see it in all its glitter, one must go on Satur- 
day night when the weather is fine, else the population 
remains indoors. We went to the picture show near Hol- 
born Station, instead. 

May 4th. — Sunday — and a gloomy day ! Stayed in 
all forenoon; later we went for a walk. They were hold- 
ing services in St. Paul's and we stopped to hear the sing- 
ing and the peal of the great organ. Afterwards we walk- 
ed among the tombs of England's famous men; the most 
imposing is that of Nelson; among others of almost equal 
magnitude are those of Cornvi^'allis and Packenham — tlie 
latter was killed at New Orleans in the War of 1812. 

May 5th. — Our thirtieth anniversary ! J. went to 
Cook's to complete the arrangements for our tour of Nor- 
way. At five P. M. we walked down to get oiir steamer 
tickets, but they were not ready. 



18 Ten Months on the Wing. 

May 6th. — J. went to Ludgate Circus and found a 
letter from Governor McDonald appointing him a dele- 
gate to the International Agricultural Convention, which 
meets in Eome this month ; but we have forwarded all our 
luggage to Berlin, and purchased tickets for a Norwegian 
tour; consequently we are unable to comply with his re- 
quest. It rained most of the day. Mr. Stevens came to 
bid us goodbye. 

May 7th. — We left London at ten A. M. and trav- 
eled four and one-half hours by train to Hull; our hotel 
is the Station Eoyal. Hull (situated on the north side of 
the Humber river) is an important shipping point — ^the 
third largest in England. It has some tine municipal 
buildings, three fine parks and some good statuary of fa- 
mous men. Its industries are varied. Fisheries, foun- 
dries, paper factories, tobacco manufacturing and oil re- 
fineries all flourish. 

Kay 8th. — We took a long ride on the tram this 
morning. At five this afternoon we left on the steamship 
Oslo, of the Wilson Line, for Norway. 

May 9th. — I was sick in bed all day. Captain Mas- 
sem says no matter how good a sailor one may be, the 
North Sea *'bowls him over." All the officers on board, 
excepting the captain, were sick. J. and he pretended not 
to feel any inconvenience over the rolling of the ship, but 
they lay around all day. The North Sea is always rough. 
On account of its shallowness, the least breeze disturl)s 
the water. Captain Massen says it is unusually rough at 
present. There are several ladies on board, and all have 
been ill. Enough of this for me; the "next time" I sha.'! 
go by way of Christiania. However, Avhen the new ocean 
liners from New York start, they will be large enough not 
to roll, and so have smooth sailing. 



Ten Months on the \Y ing . 19 

May IOtii. — A glorious day! We are inside the 
Songne Fjord, consequently the waters are pacific. 

Once upon a time, long, long ago, after most of the 
world was created, the Evil One wandered around and 
around over land and sea. When he saw that all was fair 
and beautiful, he was filled with wrath, and seizing an 
immense rock, he hurled it into the North Sea. It was 
so large that for many hundreds of miles it stood out of 
the water — a terrible region of dark cliffs, sharp peaks 
Avith narrow ridges and stony valleys, without one single 
blade of grass or vegetation of any kind. Then the good 
Lord looked down with pity upon the waste, and threw 
here and there a little soil, which fortunately still re- 
mains. Moreover, he commanded great shoals of fish to 
come yearly to the far north, where the cliffs and crags 
were most forbidding. Thus was man enabled to dwell in 
peace and happiness in Norway, {From the Sagas.) 

The scenery is indescribably beautiful and must be 
seen to be appreciated. It varies at every turn of the 
boat around a bend in the fjord. High, snow-covered 
mountains in the background, with a foreground of dark 
mountains covered in places with a growth of somber 
pines; and again with the pale green of deciduous trees 
just putting on their spring garb. More often the moun- 
tains are solid stone, where nothing can grow but moss. 
At times we pass through narrow straits where one miglit 
throw a stone on shore, and then the fjord widens for a 
distance of a mile or two. 

We reached Stavanger about six A. M. It is called 
the "Threshold of Norway." It is a quaint old place with 
many fish canneries and warehouses along the quay. It 
was founded in the eleventh century during the reign of 
Olaf Kyrre, and is one of the oldest of Norwegian towns. 
The cathedral is a prototype of Westminster, During the 
middle ages Stavanger was only a small fishing village; 
now it is an important shipping point. King Harold Fair- 
hair once had a palace here. The houses remind one of 
pictures of mediaeval architecture. We stopped here sev- 



30 Ten Months on the Wing. 

eral hours^ loading and unloading cargo. There are fif- 
teen steamers a week that ply the waters between Stavan- 
ger and Bergen. 

Soon after leaving Stavanger we passed several light- 
houses. Near here we traversed the open and unsheltered 
mouth of the Burkenfjord, which opens out into the sea. 
Passing numerous small fishing villages, we soon arrived 
at Haugesund, a town of over 95,000 population. This 
was only a very small village until eighteen years 
ago. It was a herring fishing ground and grew to a town 
of a thousand inhabitants, when suddenly, without any 
apparent provocation, the herring left the place and it 
dwindled to almost nothing. Eighteen years ago they as 
suddenly returned, and now the town is a flourishing 
city; but if they make another departure, the town will 
be a "back number" once more, as there is nothing el.^e 
to support it. 

Many of the islands are of solid rock, entirely bare of 
vegetation. Others have one or two houses on them. In 
every cozy nook there is a village, and on every promon- 
tory a lighthouse, forming an entrancing picture. Cap- 
tain Massem is a man of wide and varied experience, and 
as he and J. are brother Masons, he has been especially 
kind to us. He says that geologists tell him that these 
mountains are not of volcanic origin, but have been the 
bed of the sea at one time, and the fjords v/ere made by 
glaciers. Some of them have the appearance of having 
been made of mud, thrown up with a spade and then al- 
lowed to petrify. 

After passing Lyngholmen, which opens out into the 
sea, we enter a land-locked fjord which continues up to 
Bergen, where we arrived at seven-thirty P. M. It is 
still as light as day. 

Hotel Smaby.— The sun shone until eight P. ML ; it 
is still light enough for me to write at nine-thirty without 
artificial light. 

Bergen is the commercial center of the country, tht» 
capital of Western Norway, and said to be in the heart of 



Ten M ontlis. on the W ing . 21 

the most beautiful part of the country. As yet, we can- 
not verify this, as we have not seen any other. But this 
is lovely enough to satisfy the most exacting taste. The 
M^eather is delightful thus far — similar to our own. The 
city was founded by Olaf Kyrre in 1070 — has a popula- 
tion of 40,000. The city rises in terraces to a consider- 
able height up the side of the mountain at whose base it 
is situated. A steep road zigzags to the top, and Sunday 
sees everybody, young and old, enjoying a walk or drive 
up the hill, for it is the park of Bergen. The slopes are 
covered with trees and flowers. The birds are said to bo 
in a quandary as to the time to seek their rest, but chick- 
ens go to roost about the usual time, even though it is 
still light. People with their children begin to go to the 
park, when we Americans would be preparing to go to bed. 

May 11th. — We walked down the Strandgaten, the 
street on which our hotel is located. It runs the full 
length of the city north and south. Continuing our walk, 
we passed by the Hotel Metropole, the largest in Bergen: 
on through the Kygaard Park by the Norge, and thence 
to Fredericksberg and the lovely park in connection there- 
with. A splendid view of Puddefjorden is obtained ro 
the east of the town. We wandered along a shady drive 
back to the hotel. 

After lunch we went out on the tram to the end of 
the line at Kalfaret, where the road leads up the moun- 
tain — mentioned above — called Floifjeld, 2010 feet high. 
Besides the driveway, there are numerous footpaths; hun- 
dreds of people were strolling among the trees and by- 
ways; even little tots of three and four were climbing the 
steep, as though it were play. Half way up we decided it 
was too much like real labor, as the sun shone quite warm, 
so we turned back. 

The panorama that greets the vision is of incompara- 
ble loveliness, almost, if not quite, rivaling Switzerland. 
To the north lies a fertile valley of green trees and flower- 
ing uplands, while to the east rose another range of moun- 



28 Ten Months on the JV ing . 

tains — the TJlriken, brown and bare; at their base the 
Puddefjord, farther in the background lies another large 
fjord; to the south the Vallestromen meets the Pudde- 
fjord hundreds of feet below where we stand. Bergen is 
surrounded b}^ seven mountains. From where we stand it 
looks like a miniature fairy land — the bright reds and 
rich browns of the houses embowered in green trees form 
an entrancing scene. It looks as though done in water 
colors by the brush of a master artist. Golden dandelions 
gleam like stars in the verdant turf. It is good to be 
alive, just to enjoy God's out-of-doors on such a day! 

At seven o'clock we were back at the hotel, the sun 
still an hour high. 

J. speaks Norwegian as fluently as the Irishman 
spoke Spanish in Tucumcari. 

Mat 12th. — We visited the Hanseatic Museum, es- 
tablished by the German Government by permission of 
the Danish Government, in 1559. The Germans drove 
out all the English and Dutch traders, monopolizing all 
the trade. They held sway for upwards of two centuries, 
over all commerce with the Northland. However, in 1763 
it reverted to the Norwegians. The old building occupied 
by the Museum is just as it was during the German occu- 
pation. It is built of hand-hewn boards. It contains 
many ancient curios; also the built-in beds. No married 
man was allowed in the em]3loy of the company, but, as is 
usually the case, they found ways of avoiding the issue. 
A cupboard in one corner was a ruse by which females 
were admitted to the rooms above by a narrow stairway; 
if they heard any noise, the girls disappeared into the 
cupboard. 

We met a young man who is anxious to learn to 
speak English. He escorted us over to the Museum of 
Paintings and Industrial Arts, where there are a few 
genuine pictures and a few bronzes. An interesting relic 
is Ole Bull's violin with a broken string. 

At nine o'clock we went to the picture show and saw 



T e n M o n t h s. on the ^V i n g . 23 

a "wild west" scene. At ten we went for a walk through 
the park; it was still sunciently light to see the flagpole 
on the top of Floif jeldet. 

The Torvet^ or fish market, is one of the interesting 
places to visit, but trying to the olfactory nerves. 

May 13th.— Today we went across the ferry to Haa- 
kon's Hall and the Valkendorf's or Eosenkrantz Tower; 
climbed the latter one hundred steps to the top; then down 
into the dungeons. There is nothing of interest to Haa- 
kon Hall excepting it is where Haakon Haakonson lived ; 
it has an old bath, speaking tube, and some ancient can- 
non balls — was built in the eleventh century. 

In the afternoon we hired a carriage and drove to 
Fjosanger to visit the old Stave kirk of Fantoft. I wis.h 
that I might make you a kinemecolor of every foot of the 
road. We have never enjoyed a more charming drive; 
through sylvan glens and upland forests of bright ver- 
dure, looking down into dark tarns that suggest to the mind 
Poe's Ullalume, "Here once through a valley titanic, of 
cypress — I roamicd with my soul. Where the earth was a 
velvet sward of yellow, pink and green." It is no wonder 
that a country like this should produce an Ole Bull, for 
he lacked not inspiration. One feels that it would be the 
natural thing to paint, or compose epics, or write themes 
like Ibsen and Bjornson BJordson. The road is circuit- 
ous. We came home through Kalfaret, past the ceme- 
tery where Ole Bull is buried. 

Our hotel is next door to Nykirke; the bells ring al- 
most as m.uch as in Mexico City. The streets are narrow 
in this part of the town and paved with flat cobble-stones, 
which are hard on the feet — and the nerves also suffer, as 
the noise of vehicles is deafening at times. The most beau- 
tiful villas are on the east side, near NyGaard Park, but 
there are many handsome residences on the mountain side, 
clinging like birds' nests, almost overhanging the town. 

They have a singular mode of advertising by putting 
their names in bronze into the narrow sidewalks, or by 



24 T e n Mont h s on the W ing . 

representing their wares in like manner. For instance, an 
umbrella store will have a bronze umbrella imbedded in 
the walk in front. 

There is a large hospital for lepers near the cemetery. 

The Eantoft is a German kirk of a peculiar style of 
architecture, resembling a Chinese pagoda. It is situated 
in a dense grove of trees at the top of a high hill. At 
one time it belonged to an American Consul, who bought 
it to prevent its being demolished ; he sold it to the Ger- 
mans. 

May 14th. — Dear Sisters : I must write you about 
the lovely town of Balholmen. We are at Kvickney's Ho-_ 
tel; it is nine o'clock at night; I am sitting out on the 
balcon}'' that overhangs the fjord; it is light enough to 
write and read. This is a handsome, commodious tour- 
ists' hotel. The balconies oj)en off of every room; there 
are three large drawing rooms and a ballroom. It is a 
very popular summer resort. There are no electric lights; 
we use lamps and candles; the heating arrangement seems 
very inadequate for a cold climate — a small stove that 
would not hold a shovelful of coal. Balholmen has numer- 
ous cataracts that would furnish ideal waterpower to gen- 
erate electricity, and no doubt they will have it ere long. 
There are numerous hotels and private villas, Just now 
preparing for summer guests. 

We met some ladies from Pennsylvania who have 
villas and come here every year. 

We have walked several miles since landing, and find 
it a very pleasant place. I would like to spend the sum- 
mer here. There is a fine beach for bathing, and boat ex- 
cursions. The surrounding mountains are capped with 
snow; one is a veritable Jung-Frau in miniature. 

We came up the Songne Fjord, one of the largest 
fjords in Norway. The scenery is incomparable. Our 
boat, the Sogne, carries all kinds of produce, from a 
chicken to a cow, or horse, and stops at every small vil- 
lage. However, one only enjoys it the more; it is so 



T e n M onths on the W ing . 25 

pleasant to linger on the placid bosom of the beautiful 
fjords, where the scenery varies with every bend of the 
shore. 

The menu on board the boat was extremely Norwe- 
gian. It consisted of five varieties of fish, four kinds of 
sausage, boiled ham, cold beef, potatoes, bread and foar 
varieties of cheese — no sweets. I am so tired of fish, es- 
pecially boiled, that it makes me ill to look at a reel and 
tackle. 

May 15th. — This morning we walked to the head of 
the fjord, a distance of three miles, and made several ko- 
dak pictures. Both air and scenery are inviting to the 
senses, and still I should not wish to sacrifice myself on 
the altar of beauty. Here is solitude, if one is seeking it, 
that would satisfy the most confirmed recluse. If you 
really wish to find "that lodge in the wilderness" we so 
often speak of, come to the fjords of Norway. But this 
refers to the season when there are no tourists. Later 
there will be men with reel and rod, hook and line, moun- 
tain climbers, kodak fiends, saints and sinners, fools and 
sages, and quiet will be at a premium for two months. 
After the first of September they will quietly fade away. 
Peace and solitude will reign once more. 

This afternoon Mr. Kvickney took us across the fjord 
in his rowboat, and we tramped three miles through the 
trees — this making twelve miles we have walked today, 
yet I am not tired. One can walk further on grass or 
earth than on pavements, without fatigue. 

May 16th. — We went on a long tramp around the 
fjord. On a hill near the hotel is the grave of King Bai- 
ley, an ancient Viking. There is a large tree growing out 
of the mound with a rustic seat under it. 

May 17th. — 

"If thou wouldst read a lesson that will keep 
Thy heart from fainting, and thy soul from sleep 
Go to the woods and hills." 



36 Ten Months on the W ing . 

Thus spake our immortal Longfellow. ^N'orway is certain- 
ly the paradise of — perhaps not woods — but hills and 
water. At nine P. M. I am looking out over the Fjear- 
land Fjord, green as an emerald in its rich setting of 
brown rocky slopes and white peaks, for here the snoA\' 
lies heavy still, though May is half gone. 

We left Balholmen yesterday at ten P. M., the boat, 
Gudvangen, being four hours late on account of carrying 
freight for all the towns on the fjord — it requires much 
time to unload at each stop. It appears to us Americans 
that they need freight boats so that passengers can make 
better time between points. It was one-thirty A. M. ere 
we reached Fjearland, or Mundal, as the little town is 
called; but we found comifortable quarters and warm hos- 
pitality although we arrived unexpectedly, being the veiy 
first visitors of the season. Tourists are not looked for 
before the first of June in this mountain region. Our 
early arrival is a great advantage, as we are close to the 
people, and learn more of them than we possibly could 
when the places are crowded. We feel drawn to them by 
their exceeding kindness and universal hospitality. At 
Bergen Mr. Smaby went to considerable trouble to show 
us the places of interest, and at Balholmen the Kvickneys 
both showed us marked kindness that came from a desire 
to please, not through a mercenary motive, as is so often 
the case. On leaving, Mr. Kvickney came down to see 
us off, and to bring me a lovely bouquet of my favorite 
flowers, narcissus poeticus. 

Here we find obliging courtesy from Mr. and Mrs. 
Dahley and Mr. Mundal, her brother. Mrs. Dahley is a 
wonderful genius in household arts. I wish that some of 
my artistic friends might see the unique and altogether 
original rugs that she has made with the help of mountain 
girls. They card and spin the wool, while she dyes the 
yarn Avith herbs and bark that grov;" on the mountains; 
not only that, she designs them.. They truly rival the 
Persian rugs in beauty and durability, lasting for an hun- 
dred years — so 'tis said. The colors fade not. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 37 

This afternoon we had our first experience with a 
stolkjaerre, or cart, driving seven miles to the foot of the 
Suphellebrae, part of the Jostedalsfond Glacier, which is 
four hundred square miles in extent. Another point of 
the same glacier that may be reached from Fjearland is 
called Barabrea. One can see it from a great distance, 
but distances here are like our Southwest, very deceptive. 
This point in particular appears to be about one mile 
away, but in reality is seven. I must tell you about tlie 
stolkjaerre. It is a two-wheeled cart, the seat quite nar- 
row. It is drawn by a diminutive mountain pony, whose 
usual color is a light dun. The cart has a seat for two 
persons, the seat being almost a foot in Vv^idtli; the cart 
has a low dashboard and a seat behind, similar to a one- 
horse sulky plow. One would not care to ride all day on 
one of them., although we may have it to do later. 

One is awed and overv/helmed at the sight of these 
tremendous glaciers. We had to walk over a large ava- 
lanche of snow in the road, and this was no easy matter. 
The glacier is more attractive later in the summer. When 
the snow is melted off, its surface is a deep transparent 
blue, like sapphire. Mrs. Dahley says in June she stands 
among her roses and gazes up at a great blue field of 
glass, as it Vv^ere. While we stood gazing, there came a 
sound as of thunder, and down plunged great boulders of 
ice, crashing and booming like artillery; after some five 
minutes we heard a mighty roar, as a heavy sheet of water 
burst from under an overhanging mass, and a torrential 
cataract resulted which lasted for a short space of timiC, 
but was soon exhausted. 

We find it colder here than at Bergen, owing to the 
fact of its being further inland from the warm Gulf Cur- 
rent. We read that Christiania is much colder for the 
same reason. 

We find the cuisine in the good hotels superior to 
that of England. Of course there are dishes that do not 
appeal to an American palate, but there is a sufficient va- 
riety to satisfy any reasonable person. 



28 Ten M otiths on the W i n g . 

May l^TH. — This is the national holiday — the nine- 
ty-fourth anniversary of Norwegian Independence. They 
are a very patriotic people; flags were Avaving, cannon 
boomed all during the day. "Old Glory" waved from the 
top of our hotel, and I can tell you it caused deep emo- 
tion to see it in a foreign land. J. doffed his hat at sight 
of it. The Norwegian flag is quite pretty, possibly next 
to our own in beauty, being composed of the same colors 
— a red ground, with the passion cross in blue, outlined 
in white. 

May 18th. — Mr. Dahley and his brother-in-law, Mr. 
Mundal, rowed us over the fjord, after which we walked 
five miles, climbing the mountain quite a distance to get 
a good view of the valley, mountain and fjord. 

Our boat to Balholmen is eight hours late. 

We left Mundal on the Fjearland Fjoird at ten-thirty 
A. M. and reached Balholmen at one-thirty this morning 
— an unearthly hour in which to arrive, but Mr. Knut 
Kvickney was up to welcome us back. We are very fond 
of him — he is so kind. 

May 19th, Tuesday. — We left Balholmen at one- 
thirty P. M. for Gudvangen; came up the Sogne Fjord, 
stopping at ten towns on the way. The scenery is gro^v- 
ing grander and the mountains more stupendous and 
ghoulish, putting on different shades of purple and gray. 
We noted one place in particular where great battlements 
rose high above us, where a narrow weird-lilce gorge cut 
in between forbidding cliffs, and over all a dark vapor 
Inmg like a funeral pall, while in the remote background 
arose a tall white chimney of snow. Here day seemed to 
be seeking its gloomy chamber of repose. J. said, "I am 
glad that we don't have to go into that place; I believe 
the Devil has his den in there." Now, it so happened that 
we had to do that very thing, for it was the m-outh of tlie 
Naerodal Fjord. But no Evil Spirit found us! We went 
further up the Sogne, traveling for two hours, and then 



T e n A[ onths on the W i ng . 29 

turned back and entered the very gorge which had ap- 
peared not more than wide enough lor a rowboat, but ':•• 
quite broad when once you get inside. The Naerodal i? 
considered the ne plus ultra of Norwegian fjords. For 
the height of its cliffs, it outrivals anything we have ever 
seen, unless it be the Grand Canyon of Arizona. 

At Gudvangen, where we arrived at eleven P. M., is 
the beautiful Kilefos, which falls from a height of 2,500 
feet; the upper fall is perfectly perpendicular for 500 
feet, when it strikes a projecting rock and is dashed into 
a cloud of spray. 

We found in the Hotel Hansen, and in the landlady, 
the same Norwegian hospitality that we have found every- 
where in this country. 

We climbed into the stolkjaerres at ten-thirty A. M. 
in a heavy shower of cold rain. We had to hire an extra 
stolkjaerre to carry our luggage, as we were disappointed 
in getting the carriage for which our tickets called. Then 
for a drive of five miles between dark frowning mountains 
that rise to a height of four and five thousand feet. The 
tracks of tremendous avalanches may be seen on all sides 
of the narrow canyon. The road ascends the mountain in 
sixteen steep curves; it is well macadamized, and has an 
iron balustrade on the cliff' side. J. had to walk, as the 
load was too heavy for the small ponies; even then we 
had to stop at many ''rests" that are prepared in such 
a manner as to hold the stolkjaerre while the pony has 
time to get wind for the next pull. It is 1,120 feet to rhe 
summit of Stalheim. Just at the top we came to 1wo 
beautiful v/aterfalls. We did not learn the name of the 
one on the right, but the one on the left is the Sivlefo^;, 
meaning "bridal veil," the grandest and highest of all the 
falls. It is a cloud of vapor that spreads over the clLif 
like a giant veil of tulle. 

"Earth crowned with heaven. 
And every common bush aflame with God. 
But only those who see, take off their hat, 
The rest sit round and pluck blackberries." 



30 Ten M otitks on the W i n g . 

Immediately in front of ns is the gray dome peak of 
Jordalsnuten, 3,600 feet high. We intended to stop at 
Stalheim a day or two, but the hotel is undergoing re- 
pairs, so we must on to Framnaes, a favorite resort of 
English sportsmen which is noted for its hunting and 
fishing. (The Emperor of Germany has a cottage at 
Stalheim, and one at Halholmen also.) 

It had snowed, sleeted, and rained on us all morn- 
ing. So the steaming hot soup, the hot coffee, and cheer- 
ful fire were welcomed accordingly. 

May 20th. — At four we left our comfortable quarters 
(the boys in the meantime having fed the ponies) and 
started down grade for Vossevangen, through lofty wooded 
hills, mostly pine and Norway sj)ruce. The snowy peaks of 
Loenhorgen 4,680 feet high, are visible from the road. A 
short while before reaching Vossevangen we came to the 
Tvinlefos, where the traveler may alight and walk under 
the falls. We were too cold and wet just then to care for 
more sight-seeing. We arrived at our destination about 
six-fifteen and soon the maid had a good fire to warm us. 

May 21st. — There is a fascination about a Norwe- 
gian house that appeals to us strongly. They are usuallv 
painted dark red, with many windows and numerous ga- 
bles ; from the top of each of these protrudes a dragon- 
head, which is generally white with red eyes. These 
houses find an appropriate setting in this unusual land- 
scape. 

May 22nd. — This morning we started by rail for 
Christiania from Vossevangen. The road is a steep ascent 
until we reach Finse — passing through one hundred and 
ninety tunnels en route. For several hours the scenery is 
lovely — green mountains and rivers whose waters are a 
transparent green, churned into white foam where they 
plunge over the numerous falls and cascades. At Grove 
the snow-covered peaks of Loenhorgen and Hondalsnuten 
are visible. Then we came to a high plateau, and soon 
were climbing up dark tenebrous mountains where summer 



Ten Months on the Wing. 31 

really never arrives. Indeed they called to mind the 
Mountains of Despair, and Sloughs of Despond in Pil- 
grim's Progress. It is a gloomy, forbidding sight. At 
Finse they have skiing all the year round. The train runs 
through many great snowsheds, and is hardly out of one 
tunnel until it is into another. Where open spaces exist, 
they look down into deep frozen lakes. It v.^ould be almost 
like being imprisoned to live here, although there are 
several stations with good hotels, and fishing is good in 
the short summer. From here the railwa}^ descends into 
fairer fields; and spring has arrived. Later we climb up 
again, but see no more snow; instead, there are large for- 
ests of Norway spruce, broad shallow streams and placid 
lakes, where one sees a great many rafts of logs being 
carried down to be sawed up and shipped to England. 

One of Cook's men from Egypt was on the train. He 
said we would find Egypt very hot. 

We reached Christiania at ten P. M. — Hotel Noble. 

May 23rd. — J. went to Cook's in the forenoon for 
information about the city. After lunch we v,^alked up 
to the King's Palace and Museum of Industrial Arts. A^"e 
then went to Cook's to make arrangements for a sight- 
seeing tour tomorrow. 

Drove with a guide to all the places of importance. 
We were especially interested in the ancient Viking ship 
in the University grounds. Also in the Art Museum, 
where there is a good collection of Norwegian paintings 
and some sculpture. In the afternoon we went to the 
ferry to see some curious houses built in the sixteenth 
century; also enjoyed a collection of Catholic relics. 

On our return we went to the Storthing. Congress 
had just adjourned for the day. It is an unpretentious 
house, but quite tasteful in st3'le of architecture. As the 
Norwegians have no royalty, everything is simple and 
democratic. The King may walk around the city and 
enjoy life like any other man. The little street urchins 
speak to him in most friendly terms. 



33 Ten M onths on the Wing. 

May 24th. — Left Christiania at seven-thirty A. M.; 
reached Copenhagen at ten thirty P. M. The scenery 
from Christiania is not grand when compared to that we 
have been seeing. There is more land in cultivation than 
on the west side. In places it resembles Illinois or Mis- 
souri. There are fine rivers, and a great deal of timber 
is exported. Kornsjo is the last station in Norway. • At 
Hogensund is the Swedish Custom House. Beyond Ed, 
the scenery is devoid of interest. There are numerous 
bogs where they were cutting peat, as they do in Ireland. 
Here we see great windmills, such as are used in Holland 
to pump the Avater from off the land. 

We ran almost lengthwise through Sweden until we 
reached Helsingor, where one car and the locomotive were 
ferried over the Sound to Elsinore. The boat passes quite 
near the Castle of Kronsborg, built by Frederick II in 
1584 — presumed to be the scene of Shakespeare's "Ham- 
let." From Elsinore to Copenhagen is about thirty-six 
miles. 

May 25th. — Hotel d'Engleterre. — Today we went to 
Frederiksborg Garden ; also the Zoological Garden — one 
of the finest parks in Europe. 

May 26th. — Employed a guide and went first to 
Rosenborg Castle, which contains a splendid chronologi- 
cal collection of relics of the Kings of Denmark, dating 
from 1568 up to the present time. The castle was origin- 
ally a pleasure resort of King Kristian I, who did more 
toward the advancement of Denmark than any of the 
kings. 

We walked down on the Strand, where are still stand- 
ing many of the houses that he built for his mariners — 
he was very fond of the sea. On the Strand is a large 
boulder brought from Sweden; on one side are carved 
three men, a sled and two dogs; two of the men are rep- 
resented as dead, and the other as dying. The other side 
contains their names and chronicles of their exploits ia 



Ten Months, o n the W i n g . 33 

Greenland. They succeeded in crossing from the eastern 
to the western side, but died before succor arrived. 

From there we went to the Glyptoteck, a fine mu- 
seum of sculpture and paintings, done mostly by Norwe- 
gians. One especially impressive gToup is a man weighed 
down with the responsibilities of life, wiping the tears of 
discouragement from his eyes ; his son, who has been hold- 
ing his father's hand, has dropped it as he looks back over 
the road they have traversed; the wife with the babe looks 
to heaven and the strong arm of her husband for support 
and guidance. 

We then went to see the beautiful Thorvaldsen Mar- 
bles of the twelve Apostles in the Frau Kirke. 

In the evening we went out to the "Coney Island" of 
Copenhagen, where v/e ate our dinner. The waiter, wlio 
thought he spoke English Huently, said our bill was ^5, 
90s, which would be over $85.00; he intended to say 5 
kroner 90 oer. 

May 27th. — Left Copenhagen at seven A. M. The 
train is ferried across the Sound at two different places; 
the first only requires fifteen minutes; the second, two 
hours. We first touch Germany at Warnemunde, and ar- 
rive at Berlin at nine P. M. Stopping at Hotel Prince 
Albrecht, Albrecht Strasse. 

M]ay 28th.— Dear Sisters : This morning J. went 
to Cook's and found some letters from home.- We are al- 
ways happy to get them, you seem so near just then, ft 
is lovely to travel and see the world, but the best of all is 
the thought that the big United States is still there to 
go back to Vv^hen we weary of other places. 

We took a walk this evening and went to a picture 
show. 

May 29th. — ^We went with a party of "rubbernecks" 
on a tour of the city. In the afternoon visited the Na- 
tional Gallery Avitli Miss Helen Fitzgerald, of New York 



34- Ten M ontlis on th e -W ing . 

and Cork^ Ireland; we saw some good pictures, and some 
that were not good. 

May 30th^ Friday. — We went on a tour to Potsdam; 
the route lies along the Linden, through the Brandenburg 
Gate and the Tiergarten, by Charlottenburg Chausee, 
passing Bismarck Strasse; then along the military road 
cut through the Grunewald Forest by Emperor William 
II. From here through Grunewald to Wansee, then by 
motor boat down the river Havel, which here forms a wide 
lake, where are situated several summer homes of the 
princes of Germany. 

We landed at the Cafe at Potsdam, visited the palace 
built by the Great Elector in 1768 — Potsdam being his 
favorite residence. Another palace, called Schloss Sans 
Souci, in rococo style, is very attractive. Both palaces are 
full of treasures collected by the kings. The decorations 
and tapestries are exquisite, and many of the paintings 
are by great masters. Napoleon occupied one of the suites 
during the short time he was in Berlin. 

One statue that was more than ordinarily impressive 
was that of Frederick the Great the day before his death. 
He is reclining in his chair in his night clothes, propped 
up with pillows, gazing out of the v\dndow on his favorite 
walk in the garden. He is said to have remarked as the 
sun went down that he would never see it rise again; he 
passed away at two A. M. The statue is a beautiful crea- 
tion; the emaciated countenance has every appearance of 
one who is looking into the future world, and is full of 
passive suffering. 

The Dresden room is very ornate with its festoons 
of flowers depending from the cornice, carved out of wood 
and painted in natural colors. Here are many lovely 
pieces of Dresden ware. This was formerly the royal bed- 
chamber. 

Passing into the Garrison Church, we see the simple 
tomb of Frederick the Great. The coffin was made years 
before his demise, and kept in the palace. The Masons 



Ten Months on the Wing. 35 

of England have just been here and placed a beautiful 
wreath of laurel on the sarcophagus. 

The drive continues, passing the historical windmill, 
which made so much noise that it disturbed the slumbers 
of the Emperor. He wanted to buy it and tear it down, 
but the miller would not sell ! The law decided in favor 
of the miller; so it still belongs to his descendants. We 
walked down the fine terrace and gardens and came back 
through a splendid forest of beeches; along through the 
Siegesallee, bordered by statues of the heroes of the Franco- 
German wars. 

Berlin is a magnificent, up-to-date city; broad, clean 
streets, handsome buildings, fine trees, numerous monu- 
ments, pretty flower beds, inviting parks and places of 
rest. 

May 31st. — Visited the Eredericksberg Gallery; 
most interesting to us were the bronze statues of Freder- 
ick der Gross, altar-pieces by Bartolome, Andrea de la 
Eobbia, Vivarini, and Paris Bardone. The upper floor is 
given up to France, Spain and the Netherlands, with a 
few German paintings. There are some beautiful sea 
pieces by Euysdael, fine things by Hurbert and A^an Eyck. 
Among the Eubens' there is a splendid Vision of Daniel 
and several others, all of them showing the face of his 
wife. Another fine work is Van Dyck's Diana and the 
Nymphs Surprised iy the Satyr. There are some woji- 
derful tapestries made in Brussels from well-known car- 
toons of Eaphael; St. Anthony of Padua, by Murillo; 
Velasquez' Portrait of a Lady, Tivo Little Girls and The 
Woman With the Parrot, are among the best in the Span- 
ish collection. 

June 1st, Sunday. — Walked through the Siegesallee 
down to the Column of Victory and statue of Bismarck — 
the latter made from cannons captured in the German 
wars; then on to the Eeichstag, where we met our old 



36 Ten Months on the Wing. 

friend from Denmark who was so kind to ns on the train. 
In the afternoon we went to the "Zoo." 

June 2nd. — Stood for over an hour on Fredericks- 
berg Strasse to see the Kaiser go by. He had been re- 
viewing the troops early in the morning, and this was on 
the line of parade when they returned to the city. He re- 
sembles the pictures with which we are all familiar. 

In the afternoon we walked down to the Old Mu- 
seum, but could not get in, so went to Konegen Platz. 
The monument to the men who defended the Fatherland 
is the finest thing of the kind in Germany — it is heroic in 
size. The four lions are extraordinary for workmanshij) 
and design. On top of peristile at either end is a statue 
of "Victory" driving a chariot drawn by four horses. This 
is the statue that Napoleon carried away to Paris, but it 
was brought back after his downfall. 

We walked down Unter den Linden to the Tier Gar- 
ten and climbed the Tower of Victory for a view of the 
city. 

June 3ed. — We spent the morning preparing to go 
to Dresden. In the afternoon, we three visited the King's 
Museum of Industrial Arts, one of the most interesting 
in Berlin. It contains a fine collection of majolicas, por- 
celains, tapestries and jewelry. 

June 4th. — Left Berlin at nine-fifteen A. M. Ar- 
rived at Dresden at twelve-fifteen P. M. Hotel Windsor. 

After dinner we went shopping on the V\''allstrasse 
at Herm Muhlberg's. Later, we walked about town to 
get the location of places. Went to the Bruhl Terrace 
and the Belvedere Garden; here we met a young girl who 
showed me some small pieces in porcelain. She remarked 
in perfect English, or American, "Ain't they cute?'^ 
But when I tried to converse with her about them, she 
could not speak another word in English. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 37 

Miss Fitzgerald, the young lady whom we met in 
Berlin, is stopping at the Pension Todd, near by, 

June 5th. — We went to the Picture Grallerj'-, where 
there are many masterpieces. The most famous of all, 
Eaphael's Madonna, occupies a room to itself. It is an 
altar-piece eight feet high and six feet wide, (so called 
from the Church of Benedictines at Piacenza) — The Vir- 
gin and Child in the Clouds, with St. Sixtus on the right 
and St. Barbara on the left, together v/ith the two cherubs 
underneath, are indisputably a work of the great master's 
own hand throughout. A curtain has just been with- 
drawn, and the Virgin issues as if from the vault of Hea- 
ven, awe-inspiring and serene, her large eyes taking in 
the whole world in their gaze. "The idea of a sudden re- 
vealed mystery hitherto concealed could not be better con- 
ceived." The Saints should not be overlooked, contrasted 
as they are in age, expression and movement — they sup- 
plement each other effectively. They must be thought of 
in connection with the whole community of Christians. 
St. Sixtus, reverent and pious, recommends himself to the 
Virgin's mercy — the beaming face of St. Barbara repre- 
sents the joyful enthusiasm of the redeemed." This was 
painted about 1515. 

Among the choice Italiati productions are Cosonio 
Pier and Holy Family, by Palnia Vecchio; Venus on the 
Wate?^ Lily, by Paolo Veronese; Faith, Hope and Charity 
introduced into the Cuccini Family; Titian's Portrait of 
His Daughter, Lavinia; Veronese's Finding of Moses and 
The Good Samaritan; also his Adoration of the Magi and 
Daniel Barbara; Titian's Portrait of Antonio Pahna; 
some fine things by Tintoretto; Corregio's Adoration of 
the Shepherds; his far-famed masterpiece of chiaroscuro. 
The Holy Night, Madonna Enthroned with Saint Francis, 
Saint Anthony and John The Baptist; and St. Catherine, 
a work of his youth. There is another Madonna Enthron- 
ed, with George, Peter, John the Baptist and Geminiam. 
In another room are Caravaggio's Card Sharper; (this is 



38 Ten Months on the Wing. 

a picture not easily forgotten) ; some fine tapestries exe- 
cuted in England from Eapliael's Cartoons; St. Sebastian 
with the Venetian Canal; Cagliano's Presentation of The, 
Virgin — exquisite in color; Titian's Madonna and Saints 
and Palma Veccliio's Three Sisters is very good. Titian's 
Tribute Money embodies the most subtle thought; ''the 
contrast between the majestic calm of the God-like coun- 
tenance of Christ and the low cunning of the Pharisee is 
sublime. The form of Christ was never better conceived, 
nor was the brightness of the coloring ever excelled." 
Franc Francia's Adoration of the Magi and Lorenzo di 
Credi's Madonna are splendid; Francibiizio's Story of 
Uriah's Letter is peculiar; Guido Eeni's Ecce Homo is 
wonderful; and Claude Lorrain's landscapes are always 
fine; as are Euysdael's. Don's Schoolmaster at a Window, 
Man with a Violin and The Hermit are singularly beau- 
tiful ; Van der Meer's Girl Reading a Letter at a Windom 
is excellent; Hobbema's Wi?idmill, like all of his works, 
looks cool and the colors are fine; G. Metsu's Lacemal-ers 
has a fine light. Altogether, there are two thousand two 
hundred and thirtyfive productions of the old masters, and 
three hundred and ninety-five of the modern schools — 
the finest among the latter, in my opinion, is The 
Lions' Den, Gudvangen in Noriuay and a Sunset ui Scot- 
land. 

June 6th. — Went shopping. I find that a small hat 
is a nuisance in this hot sun — they tell us we will need 
topies in India, else v/e may suffer sunstroke. 

In the afternoon Ave three went to the Eacknitz, 
where General Moreau was mortally wounded in 1813. 
Three oak trees grow over his grave. i^^Tearby is a large 
monument to Bismarck, with a rustic seat under the shade 
of a tree. 

June 7tii, Saturday. — ^]\Iiss Fitzgerald, J., a j^oung 
lady from Irdianapolis and myself went down the Elbe 
by boat to Mfeisen — a two hours' sail. We first visited the 



T e n M oaths o n the Wing. ,39 

porcelain factory. Here we watched them make porce- 
lain, from start to finish, which was of more interest to 
us than any museum. It requires great aptitude and long 
practice to become proficient in this particular art of 
Dresden, but I believe that I could do this with proper 
training. This would be one line of art where my deft 
fingers and knowledge of the harmony of colors could ob- 
tain to some degree of perfection. Each tiny petal of a 
flower, each minute finger, or other member of the body, 
is moulded with dexterity by the nimble fingers of the 
workers. When all is finished, and it has twice gone to 
the kiln, the painters or decorators do their part, when it 
is again sent to the kiln for the last time. 

We climbed the hill to the ancient Castle of Albrecht- 
burg, erected in 1471 by brothers of the co-regents, Er- 
nest and Albert. It contains some good paintings, several 
wooden statues and some frescoes. It is one of the larg- 
est and most extensive castles of that period; decorated 
in Eococo style, with vaulted ceilings and Eomanesque ar- 
chitecture. It commands a fine viev/ of the surrounding 
country and river. A cathedral built in the thirteenth 
century contains some peculiar tombs, hundreds of years 
old. The old Franciscan Church is now a m.useum of 
Catholic relics. We came back to our hotel by train. 

June 8th, Sunday. — J. and I went to the Groser 
Garten in the afternoon to hear the music, then out foi- a 
car ride. In the evening we walked down Prager Strasse 
and went to a picture shov/. What a great thing the pic- 
ture shows have been in acquainting people all over the 
world with each other's countries and mode of life! — we 
see "Wild West" scenes, pictures of our great cities, our 
mountains, railroads, industries, et cetera. Thus people 
who are unable to travel may see and know about otlier 
parts of the world. 

June 9th. — Hotel Terminus. — We left Dresden at 
twelve-ten and reached Mhinich at ten-ten P. M. Traveled 



40 Ten M o n t h s on the W ing . 

through a pretty rural country, past numerous villages, 
basking amidst fertile fields and wooded hills. Eye is the 
prevailing crop — it grows to perfection here. 

June 10th. — This morning we went shopping. In 
the afternoon we walked to the Karl Platz, the Lenbach 
Platz and the Maximilian Platz. This we followed down 
to the lovely river Isar. Several stone bridges span tlie 
street. At the end of lli'lJaximilian Platz is the Maximilia- 
lum, founded by Maximilian II for the instruction of 
Soyal pages and other students. Next to it is the Maxi- 
milian Aulagen, a splendid park — (they seem to run to 
"Maximilianism" here!) We walked by the New Court 
of Justice, the German Museum, the Government Build- 
ing and the Mint and Post Office. 

After dinner we had another long walk. Munich is 
a very pleasant city to visit. 

June 11th. — Went on a "rubberneck" excursion in 
the forenoon. Among the places we visited are the new 
Palace of Justice, the Old Palace, with its clock, tower 
and chimes; the Ludwig Kirke Synagogue, the Residenze. 
In the afternoon to the Army Mtiseum, ministerial resi- 
dences of Greece and Belgium, the Crystal Palace, con- 
taining an interesting international art exhibit, then out 
to Bavarian Euhmeshalle, containing the busts of eighty 
Bavarians; on past the English Garden, Frauen Kirke, 
and several other places of note. We stopped at Luipcid 
Cafe for refreshments — said to be the finest cafe in Eu- 
rope. We also went to the German Museum and saw a 
collection of old and new models illustrating the progress 
in industrial arts, coal mining and engineering. Here is 
one of the automobiles that made the New York-to-Paris 
tour of 37,000 miles. 

June 12th. — ^This forenoon we went through the 
Alte Pinakothek, viewing its collection of old masters; the 
most noted is Ruben's Battle of the Amazons — which 



T e n i¥ o n t It s o n t h e W i n g . 4J. 

stands next to Eapliael's Battle of Constantine. This is a 
magnificent worlc of art. In my judgment, Euben's Cru- 
cifixion is the finest thing of its kind Ave liave ever seen. 
There are several beautiful Murillos. I admire intensely 
his colorings and conceptions. 

After lunch we went to the Hofbrauhaus, or Court 
Brewery, the largest drinking establishment in the world. 
Here the smallest quantity of beer one can buy is one 
quart and three-quarters, and costs three cents downstairs 
— upstairs it costs a little more. There were hundreds of 
men and numerous women drinking and gossiping, but 
no one was intoxicated; the beer contains very little al- 
cohol. There is a large hall on the second floor, where 
concerts are held. It contains long rows of tables ; cjuaint 
old pictures adorn the walls. 

June IStii. — We left Munich at twelve-ten and ar- 
rived at Lindau at tv,'o P. M. Here we left the car and 
crossed Lake Constance. Into Switzerland ! 

Switzerland, June 13th, jSTatioNxIl Hotel. — Ar- 
rived in Zurich at five P. M. yesterday. We always love 
to come to Zurich; it is a progressive town for Europe, 
and has made quite a growth since we were here six years 
ago. It is a most delightful place to visit ; we should like 
to spend a summer here. We met a Mr. Coster and wife 
from New York; they were on the train from Munich. I 
walked down the Banhofstrasse with them this morning. 
It was an interesting sight; the street is about a mile 
long, and was lined on each side from end to end with 
marketers of flowers and vegetables of all kinds; the 
housewives, carrying baskets, were bartering v/ith the 
hucksters and taking their day's supplies home in their 
arms. By eleven A. M. the place was deserted — every 
vestige of trash having been cleaned away. In the after- 
noon it is a fashionable promenade. 

After lunch we went to the National Museum with 
the Costers for an hour ; then we separated, they going for 



43 T 6 71 Months on the Wing. 

a boat ride and we, taking the tram, went down to tlie 
station, and by rail up the Doldorf, where we obtained a 
splendid view of Zurich and Zurich Lake for miles in all 
directions. We ate our dinner out on the terrace that 
overlooks the city and wished we had brought the Costers 
along. She is cjuite anxious to eat out of doors, and this 
is an entrancing view. 

We promised to meet them at the Tonehalle at eight 
P. M>. to drink beer and listen to the music, which is al- 
ways fine there. We remained at the Tonehalle until ten 
o'clock and then came home and prepared to start for 
Lucerne. 

June 14th. — Hbtel Victoria. — We arrived here about 
eleven-forty, an hour and a half's run from Zurich; pass- 
ed through sixteen tunnels en route. The place seem.s fa- 
miliar to us; has not grown as much as Zurich. Switzer- 
land is ideally beautiful, but since seeing Norway, this 
scenery is less awe-inspiring. Although most of the moun- 
tains are much higher than in Norway, they do not appear 
so lofty on account of the lakes being broader. 

Today we went by boat to Kelirsiten, then by a fu- 
nicular railway that made one feel like saying his pray- 
ers, it is so steep and so high — eighteen hundred feet ! 
From here we v/ent by a path called the "Felsenweg," cut 
in the precipitous v/all of the mountain for several miles. 
There is a strong iron balustrade all the way; the height 
is so great that it gave J. vertigo to look down. Just op- 
posite the Rigi Kulm there is an elevator which carries 
passengers up to the top of the mountain, but it seemed 
like tempting Providence to go up in the fragile steel 
cage, and the view is no better — so we did not attempt it, 
but came back to the station and had some beer. You 
knovf that I never touch beer at home, but this is quite 
different from that which we get in Amierica. 

Tonight we went out to buy a lunchbox. It is a 
wierd sight to see the lights come out at the hotel on top 
of Mount Pilatus, 2,138' feet up in the sky. When it is 



Ten Months on the Wing. 43 

misty, and one cannot see the mountain, but just the 
lights, it then has the appearance of being another planet. 
On top of another mountain they have a searchlight which 
looks like a meteor. 

Now "adios" to Switzerland. Next stop is Milano. 

June 15th. — Hotel Du Nord. — We came over from 
Lucerne this morning, reaching Milano at three-fifty P. 
M. Found it dry and dusty here, about as bad as at home, 
and quite warm after Switzerland. From Lucerne to Mi- 
lano the road through St. Gothard's Pass skirts Lake Zu- 
rich and Lake Zug and passes through sixty-odd tunnels, 
the longest being St. Gothard's, 3,786 feet in height and 
16,400 yards in length. In ascending the mountain we 
made several loops, passing over the road below, and cross- 
ing and recrossing the river Pease at several points. Tlie 
church at Wasen, owing to the winding of the railway, 
seems to change its position constantly. After passing 
through the Leggestine loop and tunnel, 1,198 yards in 
length, we pass for the third time the wild ravine by the 
upper Meienreuss Bridge, and enter another tunnel ; on 
emerging from this, we look down on the village of Wasen 
(through which we have just passed), one hundred and 
eighteen feet below. After passing through several more 
tunnels the road descends and the valley expands, but the 
scenery continues Alpine until we reach the fertile valley 
of Faido, with its fine chestnut trees. The town is thor- 
oughly Italian in character; and soon we arrive at the 
beautiful lake and city of Lugano; further on we come to 
Como. Of the two, I think the former is the more beau- 
tiful. Milano is situated on a broad, level plain. From 
the top of the Cathedral it has the appearance of a sea of 
tile roofs in all imaginable shades of red. 

June 16th. — We went to the Duomo, or Cathedral; 
climbed four hundred and ninety-eight steps to the top, 
from whence we had a splendid view of the city, which 
has a population of 600,000. One must see the Cathedral 



44 T en M onths n the IV ing . 

in order to comprehend its marvelous beauty; its three 
thousand statues and bas-reliefs. The best view is from 
about one hundred and ninety-eight steps upward. It re- 
minds me more of an enormous piece of rose point lace 
than anything else. However, I was slightly disappointed 
when the guide disillusioned us in regard to the ceiling. 
One would take oath that it was carved out of marble in 
a lace design. In reality it is only painted, and is now 
being restored; there vv^ere twenty- five artists who made 
designs for the new decorations. Out of these, four were 
allowed to place their efforts in as many arches. Of these 
four artistS;, one was German, one French, one Spanish, 
and one Italian. It has not yet been determined which 
design will be chosen. I like the Spanish and the Italiau 
best; the German is too heavy, and the French too highly 
colored. It is useless to dwell on the many points of in- 
terest in the Cathedral; the window called '''The Pearl," 
on account of its perfection, and the two immense win- 
dows at the liack of the altar are superb ; but the statue 
of St. Bartholome is gruesome in its reality. He is rep- 
resented as having been flayed alive, and carries his skin 
over his shoulder. The anatomy is perfect, and the mus- 
cles and nerves would do credit to a Darwin, they are so 
true to life. The skin and scalp seem to quiver with ani- 
mation ; but it makes one sick to look at it. 

Later we employed a carriage and guide to show us 
the city and places of interest. Went first to the Church 
of San Ambrozia, built in 387 A. D. on the site of a pa- 
gan temple. Here it was that St. Ambrozia baptised St. 
Augustine, and where he closed the doors on the Emperor 
Theodosius after the cruel massacre of Thessalonica and 
made him walk barefooted to his palace in atonement for 
breaking faith with the Christians. The ancient pillars 
are the same that supported the pagan temple, and bear 
the images of monkeys and other pagan deities, Avhiie 
those of the early Christians contain the dove, represent- 
ing the Holy Ghost, and the Cross. The ancient archi- 
tectural form has been preserved in the atrium, while the 



T e n M o n tlis. o n t h e Wing. 45 

Christian addition follows the ancient Hebrew synagogue, 
with a separate gallery for the women. 

The High Altar, restored in 12G0, still retains the 
original decorations, and the stalls belong to the original 
church. This is one of the very earliest of Christian 
fanes built after the edict of Constantine, giving permis- 
sion to the Christians to build temples of worship. There 
are some mosaics of the fifth century back of the High 
Altar and the four columns of porphyry are from the 
pagan temple. There is a Eeliquary in the Crypt contain- 
ing the bones of St. Ambrozia and of two Emperors, The- 
odosia and the other I have forgotten. The Emperors are 
in marble tombs with their wives. 

From here we drove to the Cemetery Monumental 
(the finest Compisanti in Italy), containing many works 
of modern artists. 

June 17th. — Hotel Smith, Genoa. — We came over 
this morning from Milano, traveling through the rich val- 
ley of Lombardy for two hours. We saw orchards of trees 
entirely denuded of foliage, and puzzled our brains as to 
the reason for this, when it dawned on me that June is 
the height of the silkworm season and these were white 
mulberry trees, on which they feed. The season, as I re- 
member, lasts about six weeks. Sometimes the family 
moves out of doors and turns the house over to the worms. 
They are omniverous feeders, and consume an astounding 
amount of leaves each day. We are told that one can 
hear them masticating several feet away. Although the 
season does not last long, great care is necessary to se- 
cure a perfect yield of silk. As soon as the cocoon is 
formed, they are carried immediately to the kiln, where 
they are subjected to a given temperature, just hot enough 
to kill the worm Avithout spoiling the silk. If they are 
not rushed through before the worm has time to eat his 
way out, the skein is ruined, as the threads are too short 
for weaving. 

After about two hours Ave ran into the mountains. 



46 T 6 71 Months on the W in g . 

where the scenery is very picturesque, passing through 
twenty-one tunnels and looking down on lovely villages. 

We arrived at Genoa at twelve-thirty. This hotel 
has been in the Smith family for three generations; it 
was formerly an old church, and what is now the dining 
room was then a chapel. The paintings on the ceilings 
date back six hundred years, as doe^ also the one on the 
wall in the hall. 

Just across the street is the oldest bank in the v.^orld, 
the place where Columbus used to send his money, and 
a remittance to his father. 

Most of the streets are quite narrow and dark, but 
the newer ones are broad and well paved for this country. 
Genoa has the largest mausoleum and most unique ceme- 
tery we have ever visited. The monuments are all marble 
statues of the deceased. Often there will be a family of 
children weeping over a dead parent, or vice versa. Thoy 
are copied from the living persons; the drapery has a 
satin finish that looks like real cloth — but to us the whole 
thing seems crude and impossible. They think it quite 
strange that the English will not have anything but plain 
stones. 

June 18th. — In the morning we went by tram 
around the city, via Circonvuallazione. In the afternoon 
to the Lanterna, or lighthouse; then to the house of Co- 
lombo. 

June 19th. — Left Genoa at nine-forty-five. The first 
two hours there were so many tunnels we were under 
ground three-fourths of the time. After passing Spezia, 
on the left is the Appi Apuane. Some time before reach- 
ing Pisa, the coimtry spreads out into a fine valley, where 
there are acres and acres of wheat just being harvested. 
Men and women are busy "gathering in the sheaves." 
There are numerous olive orchards, and many cork trees, 
with wheat growing among them. I had a good view of 
the Leaning Tower for at least five minutes, while pass- 



Ten Months on the Wing. 47 

ing through Pisa. J. was in the smoker and missed see- 
ing it. Not far from here we came to Leghorn. From 
there the railroad diverges, the line leading to Eome fol- 
lowing the coast. Just beyond Bibbona Casole, an an- 
cient Etruscan town, is the Isle of Elba, with a ruined 
castle on the top of Mount Campiglia Marittima, made 
famous by being the place of Napoleon's exile. The 
valley continues fertile until we reach Civita Vecchia, a 
seaport town; it then becomes a dreary tract of country 
to within a few miles of Eome. 

Arrived at seven P. M. — Pension Cargill, via Col- 
lina. — We found that our old friend and guide. Miss Dick, 
is dead, and Miss Cargill has moved away, though the 
pension is still kept in her name. This is the best place 
we have found this side of Norway for genuine comforr. 

June 20th. — J. went to Cook's for our trunk and 
letters. He — J. — is not well today. 

June 21st. — J. is still ill, but went to get our pass- 
ports ; the Consul asked him if he had anything besides 
his good honest face to identify himself. J. showed hi]n 
his thirty- third degree patent, and that was sufficient. 

June 22nd. — J. is better. We went to the Coliseum. 
What a wonderful old place it is! How much pleasure 
one could derive by reveling in imaginations among its 
ruins, repeopling it, and witnessing the gladiatorial con- 
tests; listening to the applause of the multitude, watch- 
ing to see whether it was thumbs up or thumbs down ! If 
only one might be allowed to meditate in peace, and not 
be continuously annoyed by som_e one who wants a tip, or 
to sell cards or cameos, or to be your guide and "rattle 
his head off" explaining, when you would rather pay him 
double the price to keep quiet. It is different if one 
comes just to be able to say, "I've been there." But we 
came to enjoy these old historical relics, and all we desire 
is to be let alone. 



48 Ten M o n t h s o n f h e W i n g . 

Later we went to Santa Maria di Angeli, where there 
are some paintings that were formerly in St. Peter's, but 
they were removed to this church and replaced by mo- 
saics. There is a peculiar sun-dial in the floor. iSome one 
discovered that the light which stole through a small aper- 
ture in the wall changed position at every hour of the 
day; hence they put a metal istrip in the floor, with the 
hours marked on it — this reaches across the church and 
forms a sun-dial. 

June 83ed. — Went to Cook's to make arrangements 
for going to Greece, Egypt and Palestine. And then to 
the American Embassy to see if our passport was properly 
viseed. J. met a man who used to live at Ft. Stanton, 
New Mfexico, tv/enty years ago. He is secretary to the 
Consul. 

This afternoon we went to St. Peter's. It all ap- 
peared familiar, as we visited it many times while in 
Eome six years ago. 

June 24th. — We spent the morning in San Giovanni 
in Laterano, the principal church of Eome, after Constan- 
tine. The principal facade is by Galilio. Under the 
Gothic canopy, in the center of the transept, are many sa- 
cred relics — among them the head of St. Peter and that 
of St. Paul, and a table said to have been used as an al- 
tar by St. Peter. In the ancient apse are some fine mo- 
saics. On the side of the High Altar are four columns 
of bronze from the ancient basilica; in the transept on 
the left are four columns of porphyry and an ancient 
basin of the same material, from the Pantheon. 

Afteenoon. — We visited the Pincio. A lift off the 
Piazza Espagna takes one to the top of the hill, from 
whence there is an excellent view of the city. St. Peter's, 
the Castle of San Angelo, a statue of Garibaldi on the 
Capitoline, the Pantheon, a monument to Victor Eman- 
uel, and numerous other objects of interest can be seen. 
In ancient times, the Pincio was the Hill of Gardens; it 



Ten 21 o n t h s. o n t h e W i n g . 49 

is now a fine park, ornamented with the busts of noted 
Italians and an old obelisk from Egypt. 

June 3oth. — Completed our arrangements with 
Cook's for the continuation of our journey. We then 
went to the Forum Eomanum, and wandered among the 
ruins of "days that are no more.'' There has been a great 
deal of excavating done since we were here. Many things 
are entirely new to us. If one is not entirely devoid of 
sensations, he will certainly have them here, thinking of 
those ancient statesmen and heroes and the wonderful civ- 
ilization that existed in the remote past. The thoughts 
we are thinking, they also did think; the deeds we are 
doing, they also did; the love, the hatred, the ambitions 
we have, they also had ; thus will the future ages gaze on 
the civilization of our day, and cogitate over it, as we do 
over that of the past. I wonder if they know Caesar ! 
Antony, Brutus, Cato, Pompey, and the hungry-looking 
Cassius ! 

A¥e shall come back again ; I wish to stand once more 
on the spot where Brutus played the part of Judas, and 
where Antony "came to bury Caesar, not to praise him." 

June 26th. — We went to the Vatican Museum, but 
had only time to get a general view of things. However, 
it has been changed but little since we were here last. One 
could go there for days, and still not see it all. When one 
has seen the numerous galleries that we have visited, be- 
sides the two great Expositions of Chicago and St. Louis, 
one may be pardoned if his interest wanes and he prefers 
to spend his time in God's out-of-doors, or among the 
ancient ruins. 

June 27th. — Spent the morning in the Sistine Cha- 
pel and Raphael's Loggia — went through the gallery of 
sculpture again. After lunch we went to the Pantheon. 

June 28th. — We went to Santa Maria Maggiore, 



50 Ten Months on the Wing. 

which, according to legend, the Virgin commanded the 
Roman patrician (Johannes) to huild on the site where 
he should find snovf on the following morning (August 
oth.) It contains a richly gilded ceiling, said to be made 
from the first gold brought from America; some fine fres- 
coes- in one of the chapels by Gruido Eeni, In the center 
of the church is the High Altar, with a canopy supporteii 
by four columns of porphyrj^, richly ornamented with 
gold; beneath, is a kneeling figure of Pius IX. Under 
the chancel arch is a plank said to be from the sepulcher 
of Christ and some ancient mosaics from the old church; 
in one chapel are some fine marbles and lapis lazuli col- 
umns. The architrave of the main -chapel is supported 
by forty Ionic columns. 

From there v.^e went to the Museum National di 
Therme, containing a collection of antiques discovered on 
public property within tlie city limits. Some of the best 
things are an Apollo by Phidias, a head of Athena, a 
bronze figure of a pugilist, a bronze statue of Dionysus, 
a marble statue of a kneeling youth, Hermaphrodite, Gaul 
and his wife, head of a sleeping youth, Jans Ludovici; 
then we went through the Cabinet of Vestal Virgins. There 
are four wings surrounding a large court all full of relics, 
while the garden, or court, contains many more. The 
oxen heads are good, also the goat and horse, but the ele- 
phants are poor. There are some splendid frescoes and 
stuccos from the Farnesina home. 

June 29th, Sunday. — We attended High Mass at 
St. Peter's. This being St. Peter's Day, there was a vast 
crowd at the Cathedral and mass was celebrated by sev- 
eral Cardinals; the music was inspiring. 

In the afternoon we went to the Borghese Gardens 
and spent the time in the shade of the trees. 

June 30th. — Went with Professor Nispi Lanzi to 
the Palatine; we missed our old Scotch woman who told 
us so much Eoman history when she took us over this 



Ten M ontlis. on the Wing. 51 

same ground. The Palatine was the nucleus of the ''Mis- 
tress of the World;" also the site of the house of Eomu- 
lus. He built the first wall around Eome, laying out the 
circumference of his city by plowing a furrow around it 
with a bronze plow and a yoke of oxen — hence the wor- 
ship of the bull as one of the Eoman gods; as is also the 
she-wolf. In recent years the excavations have brought 
to light many remains of these prehistoric ruins, and some 
of the wall built by Eomulus, During the Eepublic many 
private dv^^ellinga occupied the Palatine; Hortentius, 
Cicero and Claudius had homes here; Augustus was born 
here. After the battle of Actium he transferred his resi- 
dence to the Palatine, occup3dng a large portion of the 
hill with his palace, a temple to Apollo and a rich library, 
the walls of which still stand. 

Tiberius built a palace here; also Caligula; the lat- 
ter also built a bridge over the valley. This valley in- 
cluded the Circus Maximus and the Stadium, extending 
to the Capatoline Hill. 

An Emperor of the Flavial dynasty transferred the 
imperial residence to the Palatine, and Septimus Severu-^ 
extended the imperial palace beyond the limits of the 
hill. It was inhabited by Odoacer and Theodoric, but 
after the tenth century was occupied mostly by monaster- 
ies and fortified towers. 

In the palace of Tiberius is a beautiful tile floor, well 
preserved; in the dining room one can trace the circum- 
ference of the wall; also in the Auditorium Hall and 
Throne Eoom. In some places are the remains of lovely 
friezes on marble walls. 

The house of Livia is quite well preserved; some of 
the frescoes are handsome, especially the festoons of fruit 
in the triclinium. It is said they bear favorable compari- 
son with any of the kind in existence. Livia was the 
mother of Tiberius Claudius (Nero.) She retired to this 
house after the death of Augustus, to marry whom she 
had divorced her first husband. 

On the top of the lofty square, now covered with live 



52 Ten Months on the Wing. 

oaks, was the temple of Magna Mater, or Cybele, founded 
191 B. C. To the right of the House of Livia is a cov- 
ered passage connecting the palace of Caligula with the 
palace of Tiberius. In this passage Caligula and his 
wicked wife were assassinated. 

The accessible remains of the palace of Domus Au- 
gustenia are mostly the State apartments. The Aula Ee- 
gia, or Throne Eoom, was thirty-nine by forty-nine yards 
in extent — ten yards wider than the nave of St. Peter's. 
The semicircular apse which surrounded the throne may 
be easily traced, and from indications must have been 
magnificent. On the south side was a grand peristilium. 
The marble of the walls was polished until it shone like 
mirrors. Here Caligula walked, and by the aid of these 
polished walls could see who approached him, for he knew 
there were conspirators who sought his life; and here, on 
account of his wickedness, he v>'as assassinated, despite his 
precaution. 

To the north of the palace is the Temple of Jupiter 
Victor, erected in consequence of a vow made by Tiberius 
Maximus after the victory of Sentenium, 295 B. C, 

Beyond the Villa Mills (built by a Scotchman in the 
sixteenth century, but now abandoned) we come to the so- 
called Stadium, an oblong space one hundred and seventy- 
five yards in length, originally enclosed by a lofty wall. 
Here are the remains of many fine statues and marble 
columns. 

From here Vv^e pass to the palace of Septimus Seve- 
rus. This contains heating apparatus for baths. 

As we ascend to the Palatine from the street, we pass 
the Cave of Lupercalus. At the foot of the hill, on the 
banks of the Tiber, is where legend tells us the twins, 
Eomulus and Eemus, were found in the basket and car- 
ried by the wolf to the cave where she nurtured them. 
Near by was the hut of the shepherd who restored them 
to their grandfather. 

July 1st. — In the morning we went to the Temple 



Ten M ontli s on the W i n g . 53 

of the Vestal Virgins, down near the Tiber; then to the 
old bridge that Horatius defended. There is just one 
span remaining, but one can judge by that how excellent 
it was. We visited the Jewish Synagogue; it has a fine 
modern interior. 

After lunch we went to "St. Paul's-outside-the-wall.'' 
Although we had been here before, we spent a pleasant 
afternoon reviewing its magnificence; its vast proportions, 
its costly material, its rich ceiling, its eighty columns of 
Simplon granite, each fifteen feet in circumference; these 
make an imposing effect. Over the nave are mosaics of 
the fifth century — Christ with the Elders of the Eevela- 
tions. At each side of the entrance to the transept are 
colossal statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. In the tribune 
are mosaics of the thirteenth century, representing Christ 
and the Apostles. Above the columns of the aisle and 
inner nave are mosaics of all the popes up to the present 
time. The columns of yellow alabaster, also those sup- 
porting the High Altar, were presented by Mohammed 
Ali, A^iceroy of Egypt. The malachite pedestal was pre- 
sented by Nicholas of Eussia. The church is one hundred 
and thirty yards in length and sixty-five 3='ards in v/idth. 

July 2nd. — Went to Santa Croce en Jerusalem and 
to the Museum of San Giovanni in Laterano. From the 
time of Constantine down to the time of the removal to 
Avignon, it was the residence of the popes. Restored in 
1556, by Dominico Fontana, it was in 1843 set apart for 
a museum. On the ground floor is a collection of ancient 
sculpture, including many admirable works : Eoman re- 
liefs, torsos, a fine mosaic of a pugilist from the Baths of 
Caracalla, colossal figures of Tiberius and Claudius, a 
dancing satyr (very excellent), and the splendid statue 
of Sophocles, said to be the most beautiful of ancient 
statues. There was a fine sarcophagus whose carvings rep- 
resent the story of Orestes and one illustrating the story 
of the Children of Niobe. 

From here we went to the Scala Santa. I bought 



54 Ten Months on the Wing. 

some rosaries for the girls. Spent the afternoon in the 
Borghese Gardens. 

July 3rd. — We made an excursion to Tivoli with 
Professor Nispi Lanzi (at nine-thirty A. Ivl.) It is about 
one and a quarter hours' ride from Eome, upon the Sa- 
bine Mountains. Tivoli was called Tibur by the ancients ; 
its founding dates back to prehistoric times. It l^'caine 
subject to Rome 380 B, C. It was the favorite residence 
of many Eoman nobles. Cicero, Nero, Maecenas and the 
Emperor Augustus established beautiful villas here. It 
is charmingly situated on the river Anio (or Teverone of 
the ancients.) The stream bursts impetuously f''oni the 
mountain side, forming several lovely falls three 
hundred feet high. There are many interesting ruins ; a 
Temple of the Sibyl and one of the Vestal Virgins. In 
the deep gorge are numerous fantastic grottos, beautiful 
ferns and dark cypress trees, that lend themselves to the 
artistic surroundings, forming a complete picture. It 
reminds one of Eondo, Spain; however, this gorge is not 
nearly so deep as Eondo. 

The charming A-^illa de Estes is situated on the heights, 
where pretty stairways, silver waterfalls, cascades and 
fountains lead down to the enchanting garden. Here we 
find cool, shady paths that lead one on in delightful indo- 
lence, by lily ponds, under somber pines and tall, stately 
cjrpress, amid ferns and flowers where the noise of the 
outside world is hushed, and the ear is soothed by the en- 
ticing notes of birds and the tinkling splash of waters. 
How happily one might dream away the hours; 

"Where the storms that we meet in the wide 
world would cease. 
And our hearts like the waters be mingled in 
peace." 

We lunched at the Hotel Eden di Serine e Eegina 
ISTotwithstanding its fantastic name, we were well served 
and well fed. It is located on the brow of the precipice 
overlooking the panoramic gorge. 



Ten M o nth s on the Wing. 55 

After lunch we drove down the mountain to Hadrian's 
Villa. Excepting the Coliseum^ it is the most stupen- 
dous and interesting of all the ruins. This villa was be- 
gun in 125 A. D. and completed in 135 A. D. It is diffi- 
cult to comprehend how they could obtain all this mag- 
nificence and art in the short space of ten years. It occu- 
pies one hundred and sixty acres of ground; is a marvel 
of architecture^ designed by Hadrian's own fertile brain, 
after seven j^ears of travel over the universe, as then 
known. He left monuments to his fame at every point 
that he visited, but brought home a mind stored with 
beautiful ideas of art and architecture, whi-ch he proceed- 
ed to exem_plify by erecting representations of the most 
beautiful and wonderful buildings then extant. He as- 
signed to them the names of the structures from which 
they were copied, such as the Lyceum, the Academy, the 
Prytaneum, Canopus, Stoa Poecile, and Temple; a Greek 
theatre, a Eoman theatre. Hall of Philosophers, Bibelotec, 
JSTatalarian, the large square called the Giardino or Court, 
a Doric Peristile, a Basilica, or Court of Justice; the 
Nymphinium, or Tem.ple of Nymphs; Fish Ponds, Gar- 
dens, House of Pretorian Guards, a commodious Triclin- 
ium or Dining hall, commanding a fine view of Tivoli. 

The "Celaus Corinthianus" was a large square with 
Corinthian columns and a large semicircular recess. The 
Basilica had thirty-six marble pillars. The Piazza di Oro, 
a beautiful court, was surrounded by sixty-eight columns ; 
a subterranean corridor, called the Cryptoporticus, was a 
place to promenade v/hen the weather was inclement, or 
too warm outside. A Therme Grandi, or Great Bath, was 
decorated with tasteful ornamentation. It is toLl of Ha- 
drian that one day he noticed an old veteran scraping his 
back against the wall in the bath; he called to him and 
asked him if he were not an old soldier of the legion. 
The man replied that he was. Hadrian inquired why he 
was scratching himself on the wall, and being informed 
that it was because he was too poor to buy a "scratcher," 
he presented him v/ith a gold one, and appointed two of 



56 T e 11 M onths on the Wing. 

his own servants to scratch his hack every day. Several 
others overhearing the conversation were next :1ay seen 
to he scratching on the wall. Hadrian inquired hov.^ it 
was with them; they said, "Master, we, too, are old sol- 
diers and too poor to buy scratchers." He gave each a 
copper scratcher and commanded them to scratch one an- 
other's backs. 

The Valley of Canopus, artificially cut in the tufa 
rock, was devoted to festivals given in the Egyptian man- 
ner. The Poecile was copied after one he had seen in 
Athens; it consisted of a double portico embellished with 
decorative frieze and large marble columns on each sido 
of a high wall, roofed in. Here the philosophers walked 
and delivered orations, or lectured. The extensive gar- 
dens were planted to beautiful trees and contained num- 
erous fountains. Caracalla was the first to begin the de- 
molition of this marble domain, carrying off many statues 
to embellish his own baths ; Constantino continued in his 
steps; then the popes and nobles of mediaeval ages used it 
as a quarry from which to secure material for thejr 
churches and palaces. 

July 4th. — J. completed arrangements M'ith Cook's 
for our transportation. 

At dinner, Senor di Gasperes decorated the table v/ith 
American and Italian flags and treated us to champagne. 
There are a number of us Americans here at the pension. 

July 5th. — We went to see a picture drama from 
one of Tolstoi's tales: it was indeed tragic. 

July 6th. — I attended the Vatican reception held 
in one of the courts; only women were admitted. There 
Avas a stifling crowd, the court being crowded for standing 
room by women of all classes. We went early, and stood 
an hour and a half waiting for His Holiness to appear. 
He was half an hour late. When he finally came out on 
the balcony above the crowd, there was a prolonged jiieer 



T en M o ntlis on the W i n g . 67 

of welcome, lasting fully fifteen minutes. His counten- 
ance is most benevolent and he appeared to appreciate the 
adoration (for it amounts to that) of his audience. He 
blessed them in the name of the Father, the Son and the 
Holy Ghost, after which the band played, and the audi- 
ence sang a song of praise and devotion to him as their 
earthly father. The Pope then waved his sacred hat over 
the crowd and retired. We were an hour getting out. 
Mrs. Dougherty and Miss Caldwell went with me; thoy 
are from the Philippines. 

We carried rosaries in our hands; everything we had 
is supposed to be made sacred by the Pope's blessing. 

July 7th. — We visited Hadrian's Tomb, or Castle 
San Angelo; a stupendous j)i]e of ruins, full of gloomy 
passageways and crypts or ancient tombs; originally dec- 
orated (both interior and exterior) with marble and mo- 
saics; samples of the latter still remain in places and are 
very handsome, as were also the decorative tiles and mural 
frescoes. In the Torture Chamber is where Beatrice 
Cenci suffered the agonies of the damned for a crime of 
which she was innocent, or if committed, was justifiable 
in the uttermost degree. There are so many ways that 
wind and wind that one might easily lose one's self. Many 
Popes have found security in its walls during troublous 
times, escaping from the A^atican by a secret passage. 

July 8th. — Left Eome at seven-thirty A. M. After 
a hot, dusty and altogether disagreeable day, we arrived at 
Brindisi at nine-twenty-seven P. M. The scenery, like all 
of Italy, is picturesquely charming; mountains, valleys 
and rich tablelands planted to olives, figs, grapes, wheat, 
hemp, and something we took to be flax. 

Grand Hotel International is full of mosquitoes and 
fleas. We are almost eaten up ! Brindisi is a hot, dusty 
place. We wonder why it is so much warmer than Eome, 
when it is situated on the blue Adriatic. There are quite 



58 Ten Months on the Wing. 

a number of ships at anchor in the harbor, one an Eng- 
lish warship. 

July 9th. — Spent the day quietly. There are sev- 
eral Americans here, just returning from Palestine; part 
of a Sunday School Convention. 

Sailed from Brindisi at eleven P. M. on the steam- 
ship Baron Beck, of the Austrian Lloyd Line. 

July 10th. — A fine day; we came down the Adri- 
atic into the Ionian Sea, passing numerous islands en 
voj'^age; stopped two hours at Santo Quatro. A number 
of Turks and Armenians came on board, fleeing from the 
country on account of the new war among the Bulgar- 
ians, Servians and Greeks. 

"We are told that there is cholera in the town, and 
that we must be careful about the water we drink while 
in Greece. 

At Corfu, where we stopped four hours, there was 
great excitement and wrangling among the Greek boat- 
men who came to take ashore those who wished to make a 
flying visit; many availed themselves of the opportunity. 

Corfu is the largest of the Ionian Islands. It is 
dominated by the bare and rocky Monte San Salvatore. 
On the summit is an old English fortress, Fortezza Vec- 
chia, one of the two forts built when it was under the pro- 
tection of England (1863.) On the accession of King 
George, England ceded it to Greece. The island has a 
population of 91,000. The ancients identified it with the 
Phoenician island of Scahria, mentioned in the Odyssey. 
The inhabitants owe their superior education to their in- 
tercourse with the outer world, being in the direct path 
of all steamers passing between the Orient and the Occi- 
dent. The island was discovered 171 B. C. On the par- 
titioning of the Byzantine Em.pire by the Crusaders (120;j 
A. D.), Corfu fell to the share of the Venetians. Later, 
the Turks exhausted their strength in two sieges of Corfu. 
Erom 1797-99 and in 1807 it was occupied by the Erench. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 5!) 

During the interval between these periods it was. with 
other Ionian islands, a Eepublic nnder Turk'sli super- 
vision; then under Eussian sway. But from 1815 to J 86^ 
it was under the protection of Great Britain. Gladstone, 
as High Commissioner, resided here a short time. 

July 11th. — A¥e reached Patras at four A. M. It 
is the largest town in Peloponnesus, and the largest save 
two in Greece. In ancient times it bore the name of A roe, 
or "arable land/' and was famous for its numerous flocks. 
Its first King, Eumelos, and Tripolemos of Eleusis were 
favorites of Demeter. In conjunction, they founded 
Atheia, "the blooming," Mesatis, "the middle land." If:s 
original inhabitants v/ere lonians; they were expelled from 
the coast by the Achaean invaders, from whom the town 
received its present name. Like Corinth, it was one cf 
the earliest seats of Christianity. The story that the Apos- 
tle Andrew was crucified here is rejected by many. At 
one time Patras was in the hands of the Venetians and 
the popes, from whom it passed to the Byzantine Emi^ire, 
and so to Turkey, which held sway until the nineteenth 
century. It is famous for its currant industry. 

From Patras to Athens the country for the first four 
hours' ride has a desolate appearance and is mostly plant- 
ed to olives and grapes. We stopped thirty minutes for 
lunch at Corinth. (More about this place later.) 

Arrived at Athens at three-thirty P. M. The gen- 
eral view of the city is disappointing; we arrived in a 
cloud of white dust and found extreme heat, and feel that 
we shall truly "fry in Greece" if this continues. 

However, the city improves on further acquaintance, 
and in spite of dust and heat, one's interest grows. Our 
Hotel d'Engleterre is situated on the Place de Constitu- 
tion, opposite the Eoyal Palace. The Plaza is the centre 
of social gatherings; hundreds of tables occupy all tlie 
available space, and the beauty and wit of Athene :ire 
gathered here drinking their coffee and will until eleven 
P. M. Occasionally the band plays, but just at present 



60 T e 11 M n ih s on the W i n g . 

there is too much war excitement; people do not talk or 
think of anything else. Today we hear the Greeks have 
been victorious over the Bulgarians, but lost many men. 

July 12th. — War excitement ran high this morning 
when a telegram told of the atrocities of the Bulgarians; 
the report stated that on evacuating a town of 40,000, 
they burned it to the ground and killed two hundred non- 
combatants, among them fifteen young girls, and two 
Metropolitans. They threw about 30,000 people on the 
country without homes or food. The King wished all 
the people throughout the world to hear of the barbarous 
savagery of a people claiming to be Christians. It is aw- 
ful, if true. 

This morning we employed Senor Constantine Kan- 
gas, a courier of wide repute, to conduct us to the Acropo- 
lis. It dominates the landscape and is the first object, 
on reaching Athens, to greet the eye. A magnificent spec- 
tacle, situated on the summit of a precipitous rock five 
hundred and ten feet high. The semi-mythical Pelasgi 
are said to have flattened the rock and established their 
houses and temples on its summit. Up until this time 
they had lived as nomads in tents and out of doors. For 
■protection against their enemies and wild beasts, they 
increased the steepness of the slopes and built a strong 
wall around their city. Many remains are still extant, 
dating from 2000 B. C. As these people progressed in 
knowledge and intelligence, they enlarged and beautified 
the place. 

The Acropolis was the earliest seat of the Athenian 
Kings, who held their courts of justice on Mars Hill and 
v/hose sanctuaries occupied the other locations here. 
Later, the courts were all removed to the lower towns and 
the Acropolis devoted entirely to the gods. Peisistratos 
built new walls and otherwise embellished the place. 
However, it was during the time of Pericles and Phidias 
that Athens attained its greatest perfection. This period 
was called the Golden Age. 



T 6 71 M n tlis. on t h e W i n g . Gl 

The Beule Gate^ named after the Frenchman who 
discovered it, was the principal entrance to the Propylea 
(vestibule) and considered one of the most important 
works of ancient Athens. It was begun 437 B. C. on 
the foundation of an earlier gateway. The architect was 
Mnesikles. This magnificent building was a brilliant 
jewel on the front of the Acropolis, and rivaled the Par- 
thenon in the admiration of the ancients. "Even now 
we recognize in its noble design the bloom of eternal 
youth.'' 

The imposing structure consists of three parts: a 
gateway proper, with wings on the south side pierced by 
five openings; each colonnade has six Doric columns, sur- 
mounted by a frieze with tiiglyphs and metopes, crowned 
with a pediment. Most of the carving is missing. From 
here the ascent to the portico was by two grand stairway.^ 
of Pentelic marble. On either side was the Sacred Waj^, 
which, owing to the steepness of the ascent, was construct- 
ed in curves, so that the chariots and animals for sacri- 
fice could be driven up. 

The Portico entrance has six anterior Doric columns, 
twenty-nine feet in height and five feet three inches in 
diameter. Behind each of these, flanking the main pas- 
sage, stand three Ionic columns thirty-three feet in height 
with base and capitals. 

The Propylaea had two wings; that on the north 
was used as a picture gallery; the south wing, much small- 
er, opened on the Temple of Nike, or Goddess of Victory. 
Here stood the statue of Athena, daughter of Jupiter, for 
whom the city was named Athens. At times she was call- 
ed Superior Goddess, and also Goddess of Wisdom. This 
statue was called the Wingless Victor}^ intended to con- 
vey the idea that she would never fly away from Athens. 
Acropolis means the "City on the Hill," which was her 
peculiar property. 

Passing through the inner walls of the Propylaea, 
we ascend a gradual slope, now covered with ruins, but 
still producing a profound impression on one. Pausanias 
described it thus : "Every level place contained statues, 



62 Ten Months on the Wing. 

every steep place a marble stair, all presenting the ap- 
pearance of one single creation of white Pentelic marble." 

The Parthenon (meaning built for Athena) is the 
most perfect monument of ancient art; occupying the cul- 
minating point of the Acropolis, and excelling all other 
buildings of ancient Athens in its artistic embellishments. 
It was constructed over the ruins of a former temple, whose 
foundation may still be recognized. After the victory of 
Marathon it was decided to construct this temple to 
Athena, who had led them to victory. Pericles directed 
the operations and furnished the necessary funds. The 
architects were Ictinos and Kallikrates. Phidias was the 
righthand counselor of Pericles, The temple was begun 
447 B. C. and opened for worship 438 B. C. In the cen- 
ter was the magnificent statue of the goddess in ivory, 
sixty-two and one-half feet in height, by Phidias. The 
temple was supported by sixty-two large columns and 
thirty-six small ones; about fifty statues occupy the pedi- 
ment, and a frieze five hundred and twenty-four feet in 
length has ninety-two metopes. The platform was two 
hundred and twent5''-eight feet long, eight hundred feet 
broad; on this rose forty-six Doric columns, forming tlie 
outer framework, eight columns at each end and seven- 
teen on each side ; the average height Vi^as thirty-four feet. 
They all lean a little toward the interior. Above each 
column is a triglyph, or fluted tablet with grooves; along 
the top of the cornice runs a Doric moulding. The gable 
roof rose at an angle of thirteen and one-half feet. The 
top and bottom members of the pediment projected in a 
cornice and terminated in heart-shaped leaves. The front 
pediment represents the birth of Athena, Mythology says 
that Jupiter ordered Vulcan to strike him on the head 
with his hammer; he struck the blow, when forth sprang 
Athena, his daughter. The pediments on the west front 
represent Athena's strife with Poseidon for the posses- 
sion of Athens, 

But time and space forbid a further description of 
this ne plus ultra of all art. It stirs one's blood to see 



Ten M 71 til s on the Wing. 63 

it all, and to think of those v/hose brains and hands 
wrought so cunningly and so well in the dim days of long 
ago, that we of today may still enjoy the fruits of their 
labors. 

Near the Acropolis, in a slight depression, lies the 
Erechteon, which contained the shrines of Athena PalaJiis, 
or Athena, guardian of the city. It occupies the spot 
where Athena victoriously strove with Poseidon. 

The olive tree, which the goddess called forth, and 
the impression made by the trident of Poseidon in pro- 
ducing a salt-water spring were both shown us in the an- 
cient fane. When the temple was burned by the Persians 
in 480 B. C. the olive tree was destroyed, but within two 
days of the catastrophe it had put forth a new shoot an 
"ell in length." 

The temple was rebuilt after the peace of Nikias, 
during the brief breathing space in the Peloponnesian 
wars, but work had to be suspended during the troublous 
times between 413-414. It was completed about 407. 
The temple was surrounded by a sacred precinct orna- 
mented with numerous statues. It has undergone many 
vicissitudes; served as a Turkish harem and as a Chris- 
tian church. The main portion is sixty-two and one-half 
feet long by thirty-seven feet broad, covered with a gable 
roof. The vestibules on the north and south exhibit a 
pleasing variety of st5des in architecture, each one being 
a gem. of great beauty. The Portico of Caryatides was 
restored in 1845, from fragments found in the excava- 
tions. It is considered the most charming creation of 
Attic art. The east portico is a prostyle of the simplest 
construction, with six Ionic columns twenty-two feet high, 
including capitals. There were two chambers on differ- 
ent levels; the upper, entering from tlie east portico, was 
the sanctuary of Athena Polias. The beautiful and well- 
preserved doorway leading from the west portico has been 
frequenth'^ imitated in modern buildings. 

The Belvedere, at the northeast wall of the Acropolis, 
commands a splendid view of the city and mountains; to 



64 T e n M onths on the W i n g . 

the east is Mt. Hymettus, or Honey Mountain; a little 
nearer is the Arch of Hadrian; immediately in front .is 
the monument of Lysikrates; beyond^ the Palace and 
Palace garden; further off^ the Lykabettus and Penteli- 
con; to the north the Tower of the Wind, to the west the 
Thesion, backed by the olive heights of Kephios, where 
the present King has a summer home; above this, rises 
Mt. Parnes. The Tower of the Wind was built for a 
weather vane, and is decorated with flying figures repre- 
senting wind. 

On every side we are greeted with reminders of Ha- 
drian. Judging from all the lovely and useful structures 
that he caused to be erected, he must have been another 
Andrew Carnegie. That he was a man of much culture 
and refinement is very evident. 

We drove to the Stadium, recently constructed on 
the site of the old one. It conforms in every particular 
to the ancient structure. It has a seating capacity of 80,- 
000. The original was built after the victory of Mara- 
thon, and it was from the battlefield to this point that 
the races were run. The temporary gateway is soon to be 
replaced by one made in exact imitation of the original 
one. 

From here we drove by the Monument of Lysikrates 
and on to the Olympian, or Temple of Olympian Zeus, 
now rejDresented by fifteen remaining columns of enor- 
mous size, made of Pentelic marble in Doric style. The 
ground formerly sloped down to the Illisos, where the 
water courses of the upper town found an outlet. Legend, 
therefore, fixes this as the spot where the last waters of 
the Deluge disappeared. This temple dates from the time 
of Hadrian, who had it built on the ruins of an ancient 
temple founded by Peisistrates, 530 B. C. The expulsion 
of Peisistrates and the Persian wars hindered the com- 
pletion of the building. It was left untouched until 175 
B. C, when Antiochus IV, King of Syria, took up the 
unfinished work of Peisistrates. Antiochus died before 
it was completed, and Sulla, who occupied Athens B. C. 



T e n M o ntlis on the W ing . 65 

86, carried off some of the smaller columns. It was re- 
served for Hadrian to complete the magnificent structure 
130 A. D. The temple stood on a base approached by 
three steps, possessed one hundred and four Corinthian 
columns, arranged in double rows of twenty each on the 
north and south sides and triple rows of eight columns 
on the ends. With the exception of two others, it is the 
largest Greek temple known; three hundred fifty-three 
and one-half feet long and one hundred thirty-four and 
one-half feet wide. It contained a Cryselphantine statue 
of Zeus and a statue of Hadrian. The columns are fift}^- 
six and one-half feet high and nine and one-half feet in 
diameter. The Sacred Precinct (six hundred seventy-five 
feet in length and four hundred twenty-three feet in 
width) contained a forest of statues of that Emperor 
(Hadrian), who was worshiped as the founder of Pan- 
hellenic feasts connected with the temple. 

We drove to the Theatre of Dionysus, the earliest 
theatre extant. This was once the center of dramatic art 
in Greece, in which masterpieces of Aeschuylus, Sopho- 
cles, Euripides and Aristophanes first excited the delight 
and admiration of the people. It lay within the temple 
of the ''Wine-loving God," Bacchus, immortally associated 
with mimic performances. Here were enacted comedies 
and tragedies. Among the most distinguished tragedies 
was "The Battle of Salamis." The theatre seated 17,000 
spectators. A long colonnade led to the Odeion of Herodes 
Atticus, the loftiest and most conspicuous among the ruins 
of the Acropolis. 

Tiberius Claudius Herodus Atticus, member of an 
eminent Eom^an family, inherited great wealth, which he 
spent in conferring the most magnificent benefits on the 
town and citizens of Athens. He built the Odeion in 
memory of his wife, Appia Annia Eegilla, 160 A. D. The 
facade was constructed in the round Eoman round-arched 
style and consisted of three stories. Unlike other theatres 
of ancient times, it was roofed over. The rear of the 
stage was adorned with statues and the balustrade on 



66 Ten Months on the Wing. 

either side supported a lion. It had a seating capacity 
of 5,000 and was mostly used for musical contests, al- 
though plays were also given here. 

Near the theatre, half-way up the terrace, is situated 
the Asklepieion, or Sacred Precinct of Asklepios, togetlier 
with other deities. To the west of the Acropolis, half- 
way up the slope, stood a rocky plateau, which both in mod- 
ern and ancient times has borne the name of the Areopa- 
gus; a flight of fifteen steps led to the altars, for which 
platforms were hewn in the rock. 

The ancient court consisted of venerable citizens 
of Athens, exercising supreme jurisdiction in ail cases of 
life and death. It held its sittings on this hill. (This 
hill was also called Mars' Mill.) It is usually assumed 
that it was from the Areopagus that St. Paul, in 54 A. 
D., delivered the speech of which we have an account in 
chapter xvii of the Acts of the Apostles. 

Passing to the southeast, we come to the Hill of 
Pynx, one of the earliest structures of ancient Athens. 
An artificial terrace three hundred ninety-four feet long 
and two hundred forty-three feet wide, the lower side 
supported by a massive wall, is supposed to be the place 
where the Athenians held public assemblies. It was here 
that Pericles harangued the the people for four hours 
when they had bitterly censured him for spending all the 
city's money on the Acropolis. 

A little to the west and down the hill stands the 
Thesion, a temple built to Hercules and Thesus, sons 
of Jupiter — the best preserved of all the ruins; one hun- 
dred and three and one-half feet in length and forty-five 
feet in breadth. At the sides, east to west, are thirteen, 
and on the ends, six Doric columns, richly decorated and 
in a splendid state of preservation. Some have been 
slightly displaced by an earthquake. They are nineteen 
feet high and three feet four inches in diameter. The 
beautiful frieze on the east front represents the Labors of 
Hercules and the battle with the Centaur and the Lion. 
The west front represents the celebrated achievements of 



Ten Months on the Wing. 07 

Thesus. All tlie beautiful stairway has been demolished. 
On the right;, the design of the east frieze of the cell a 
represents the battle between the Athenians and the Pe- 
lasgianSj and on the left the youthful hero, repulsing this 
enemy, just in the act of hurling large stones. To the 
southwest, under the hill, we saw the cave in which Soc- 
rates was held prisoner and where he was forced to drink 
the hemlock. 

On our return we visited the Greek Cathedral. 

July 13th. — We hear that there is to be a pubUc 
indignation meeting on the Place de Constitution at six 
P. M. over the news of the Bulgarian massacre. 

Later, there was a great concourse of people to hear 
the Mayor and one or two others made patriotic speeches. 

July 14th. — We hear that the Turks are mobilizing 
their troops preparatory to retaking Adrianople. We have 
not had occasion to realize that there is anything out of 
the common going on until today. We have seen bat- 
talion after battalion of soldiers going by, and learn that 
12,000 will embark at Piraeus today, mostly conscripts. 
They formed an awkward squad, but may do as much 
fighting as the more experienced. Reports of new atroci- 
ties committed by the Bulgarians arrive each day. It 
has caused a revulsion of feeling toward them. The 
Greeks in Adrianople say they prefer Turkish rule to 
that of the Bulgars. 

Went to the National Museum this morning. It 
contains a valuable collection of antique art, chief among 
the smaller articles being Dr. Schliemann's collection 
from the tomb of Agamemnon, at Mycenae. The archaic 
sculpture is of great interest, as it represents the progress 
in development of art. There are several well-executed 
statues. 

Later we went to the Acropolis Museum., which con- 
tains the things found on the Acropolis: Some fine 
statues of goddesses of the archaic age, also a youth with 



68 Ten Months on the Wing. 

a bull calf on his shoulders, carrying it to the sacrifice. 
There are some finely executed replicas of marbles that 
Lord Elgin carried to England and one of the architrave 
of the Parthenon, by a German artist. 

July 15th. — We left the hotel with Constantine 
Kangas at seven A. M. Went by train to the Albanian 
village of Charvati, where we ate our lunch at the Kest 
House. Then drove to Mycenae, situated between the two 
mountains of Hagios Elias and Szara. Mycenae is said 
to have raised the massive walls with the help of the Cy- 
clopeans. This is one of the most astounding things about 
these ruins. How did they raise these tremendous stones 
to such heights? 

We first came to the tomb of Agamemnon, King of 
Mycenae and brother of Menelaus, King of Troy. It is 
built of hewn rock, in beehive form. The entrance is 
twenty feet wide and one hundred and fifteen feet lonM. 
The door is seventeen and one-half feet high and eight 
and one-half feet wide at the bottom, surmounted by a 
lintel of two blocks of stone, the inner one about thirty 
feet long, sixteen feet wide and three feet thick. The 
tomb is fifty feet high and the same in diameter. The 
side walls are formed of thirty-three horizontal circular 
courses, gradually becoming narrower as they ascend. 
From the three courses upward are holes bored in the 
stones at regular intervals, in which are fastened metal 
rosettes. It was in this tomb that Dr. Schliemann found 
the wonderful collection now in the National Museum. 
It consists of weapons, golden ornaments by the thousand, 
vessels of gold (one in particular I must mention — a gol- 
den drinking cup handsomely chased, with three fighting 
bulls) ; vessels of silver and of clay, choice amphora, cases 
of glass tear bottles, vases, ancient scarabs and jewelry. 

A doorway ten feet high leads into the chamber 
proper, which was lined with alabaster. Quite near by is 
the tomb of Agamemnon's wife. 

From here we walked up the hill to the Gate of the 



Ten Months on the Wing. 69 

Lions. The lions occupy a position above the entrance, 
are standing on their hind feet with their paws propped 
against the marble column; their heads were of bronze 
(now destroyed.) From the gate a broad street leads to 
the main part of the city. 

Beneath this space, Dr. Schliemann discovered the 
Eoyal Tomb, containing the bones of seventeen people 
and a great number of golden ornaments. 

Homer visited this tomb in 808 B. C. ; even then it 
was nothing but ruins. The city was adorned with mar- 
bles and fountains and was quite a beautiful place. His- 
tory, philosophy and mythology are so interwoven in 
Greece that it is difficult to tell where one leaves off and 
the other begins, and one is always interested in mytho- 
logical lore. Perseus is the legendary founder of Mycenae. 
His great-grandson Avas Sthenelos, whose son, Eurystheus, 
obtained the lordship instead of Hercules. The princes 
of the house of Pelops, who afterwards ruled here, trace 
their descent from the famous Phr3^gian king, Tantalos ; 
they inherited the domain from Eurystheus. Mycenae 
was the scene of the terrible legend of Atreus and Thyes- 
tes, the sons of Pelops, and Agamemnon. The son of 
Atreus had his seat here (described by Homer) 1500 B. C. 
Mythology says that the three goddesses, Juno, Minerva 
and Venus, gave a banquet to which they invited all the 
goddesses except the goddess of discord, Eris. This 
so enraged her that she thought to stir up trouble and 
jealousy by throwing a golden apple on the table, saying 
it was for the most beautiful of the three. As they could 
not determine among themselves who was the most beau- 
tiful, they decided to call in Paris, son of Priam and 
Hecuba, who was the most beautiful man in the kingdom. 
His mother was warned in a dream that her son would 
be the cause of the downfall of the kingdom, and in con- 
sequence she had him brought up as a shepherd in the 
mountains. But his beauty made him famous in spite of 
this precaution. Now, each of the goddesses went secret- 
ly to him and made offers of wealth, position, knowledge 



70 Ten Months on the Wing. 

and power, excepting Venus, who promised him the most 
"beautiful woman in the world for his wife. This was 
Helen of Troy, wife of Menelaus, who was brother to 
Agamemnon, King of Mycenae. This king had two 
daughters and one son, Orestes. Paris stole Helen and 
brought on the Trojan war, which lasted ten years. While 
Agamemnon was at the war, his wife, Clytemnestra, and 
Aegisthus (her lover) together ruled the kingdom. She 
thought her husband would never return, and to prevent 
further interference with her plans, sent her son, Ore.s- 
tes, out in the mountains to grow up as a shepherd and 
made servants of her daughters. After the fall of Troy, 
when Agamemnon was returning home (bringing Cas- 
sandra with him), an old soldier and beggar informed 
Clytemnestra that her husband was landing in the har- 
bor. She and her paramour planned to meet and kill 
him — their design being carried out. Time ran on until 
Orestes became a man, learned the story of his father's 
death, returned to Mycenae and asked to see the Queen 
and Aegisthus. His wish being granted, he killed them 
both. Part of this is real history, as there is no doubt 
that Agamemnon once occupied the throne of Mj^cenae. 

From here we went by carriage to Argos and Tyrn, 
where we stopped to see the most ancient Cyclopean ruins 
in all Greece. Three cities were built here, one on top 
of the other. The first dates back to 4000 B. C. Homer 
speaks of it as the "Wall-girt City." The walls are con- 
sidered no less wonderful than the Pyram,ids. They are 
of unhewn stone, from six to ten feet long and three feet 
wide, placed in regular layers and cemented by smaller 
stones. The average height of the walls was sixty-iive 
feet, and twenty-six feet thick. The rock citadel was nine 
hundred and eighty-five feet long and nearly three hun- 
dred feet in width. The lower castle contained the dwell- 
ings of the retainers and the stables for the horses and 
cattle. The upper castle was occupied by the lordly own- 
er. There was one chief entrance and several less im- 
portant ones. 



Ten Mo n tlis. o n the W ing . 71 

The ascription to the Cyclops, who had been invited 
from Lycia by Proetos, brother of King Akrisios, has ref- 
erence to some immigration from Asia Minor; subse- 
quently, according to legend, Tyrns was ruled by Per- 
seus, grandson of Akrisios, who shrank from taking the 
Argive kingdom of his grandfather, whom he had acci- 
dentally killed. 

The importance of the city falls within the mythical 
period. However, the ruins prove it to have been mag- 
nificent for the age. There are numerous chambers, cov- 
ered passages, storerooms, secret stairways leading to sub- 
terranean exits, all covered with fine cement; beautiful 
floors of fancy design, still showing the excellent work- 
manship; baths, galleries, audience halls, doors resem- 
bling pointed arches, marble columns and everything 
found in an elegant home of later periods. 

We drove on to Nauplia for the night, on the bay 
of the same name. A charming situation ! Nauplia 
means ''seamen," which seems to prove that its founders 
arrived by sea. After the capture of Constantinople by 
the Crusaders, the Byzantine governor, Leon Sgouros, set- 
tled here, 1204 A. D. His efforts to found a Greek mon- 
archy failed, but Nauplia remained in the possession of 
the Greeks until 1247, subsequently passing to the Vene- 
tians and later belonging to Turkey. After the confer- 
ence of London, the first Greek government fixed ita seat 
at Nauplia, and it was here that the first president, John 
Kapadistrias, was murdered by his brother, Mavromi- 
chalis, from private animosity, as he was entering the 
church of St. Spiridion, October 9, 1831. 

On January 25th the newly elected King, Otho, made 
his entry into the city; but the following year the gov- 
ernment was transferred to Athens. 

There are about 30,000 T^^rkish prisoners and 10,- 
000 Bulgarians here, the latter under the guard of a 
Turkish general. "He won't let them get away!" 

The town lies at the foot of a high hill, on which is 
situated the fortress of Palamidi; one thousand steps lead 



72 Ten M onths on the W ing . 

to the top of the fortress, and here the prisoners are kept, 
excepting the Turkish officers, who roam about town at 
will. Out in the baj^ is an ancient fortress, now the resi- 
dence of the government executioners. These are two 
men who were condemned to be executed, but whose lives 
were spared by their promise to act in the capacity of 
executioners the remainder of their days. Tiiey, too, are 
kept prisoners, but are paid a salary of sixty dollars per 
month; when an execution is to take place, they are con- 
veyed under cover of darkness to the fortress on the hill, 
where is situated the guillotine. However, it is six years 
since they have had to perform this duty. 

We came through Argos on our way to Nauplia; it 
is a small, dirty hamlet, much like a Mexican village -- 
flat-roofed houses of adobe, and dogs and dogs ! 

July 16th. — We spent the night at Hotel Des Etran- 
ger, and went from there by rail to a station just out of 
Corinth, where a carriage awaited us. From here we 
drove for a couple of miles, stopping by a stream to eat 
our lunch under a large tree. We then went on to an- 
cient Corinth, which occupies the north and east sides of 
the hill crowned by the citadel of Aero Corinth. The 
circumference of the walls was about twelve English 
miles. 

In one of the suburbs lived Diogenes, who was visit- 
ed here by Alexander the Great. This is described as the 
place where he offered to confer on Diogenes any favor 
he might ask, to which Diogenes replied that he would 
oblige him if he (Alexander) would take his body from 
between him and the sun's rays. Alexander said, "If T 
were not Alexander the Great, I should wish to be Di- 
ogenes." 

The American School of Archaeology has made ex- 
tensive and important excavations here. 

We first come to the paved streets of Lechacon, sur- 
rounded by halls and colonnades. On each side were 
shops. On the east was a colonnade court, and north of 



Ten M onths o n the W itig . 7'3 

the Argoro was the Propylaea, which contained a colossal 
statue of the Barbarians, now in the museum near by. 
West of this was the well-house, with fountains in the 
form of three bronze lion heads. They remain just aa 
they were originally. The original well-house was hewn 
in the rock, the overhanging part supported by short walls 
forming six chambers, into which the water flowed from 
behind. In front of this were baths. The large stream 
of water which formerly supplied this populous city came 
through a natural subterranean passage from the river 
Styx, in the mountains; but its source was changed by 
an earthquake, until now there is only a small stream. 

At the east side of the city stands the beautiful tem- 
ple of Apollo, built of rough porous limestone, originally 
covered with stucco. It had fifteen columns on each side 
and six on each end, each with twenty flutings, Doric in 
style. Of these, seven are still standing, with parts of 
their entablatures. The massive proportions of the mono- 
lithic columns were twenty-five feet eight and one-half 
inches high from the base to the capital. 

Aero Corinth, or the citadel proper, was situated on 
top of a high hill, which we would have to climb with 
donkeys; it was too hot to attempt it. This was the an- 
cient fortress, and commands a view of the surrounding 
country for miles. 

Corinth was founded by Sisyphos; its original name 
was Ephyra. In ancient times it was the Paris of Greece, 
famous for its rich silks and other stuffs; also its com 
mercial spirit. Corinth planted numerous colonies, the 
most noted being Syracuse, Polidaea and Coreya. Until 
the Persian wars, it was only rivaled in trade by Egina 
and Miletus, in Asia Minor. It was Corinth that first 
incited Sparta to its test of strength with Athens. After 
the declaration of independence of Eome (196 B. C), 
Corinth became the head of a new Achaean League, but 
for its rebellion against Eome was punished with the 
complete destruction by Lucius Mumminies, and its in- 
habitants sold into slavery. Caesar rebuilt the town and 



74 Ten Months on the Wing. 

planted here a civil colony, chiefly of freedmen. It speed- 
ily attained a new prosperity and became the seat of the 
Proconsul of Achaea. This v/as the city that St. Paul 
knew "as the most splendid city of Greece." Here he 
founded a colony, whose later division he reproved in his 
"Epistles to the Corinthians.'' During the middle ages 
it fell into the hard hands of the Turks, taken by the 
Venetians in 1687, and from 1745 to 1821 was again un- 
der Turkish control. 

Byron describes its capture by the Turks in his 
Siege of Corinth : 

"Many a vanished year and age, 
And tempest's wrath, and battle's rage. 
Have swept o'er Corinth; yet she stands 
A fortress form'd to freedom-'s hands. 
The whirlwind's wrath, the earthquake's shock 
Have left untouched her hoary rock.'' 
Leaving Corinth at four P. M., we were in Athens 
at seven-thirty P. M. Owing to the war, the train was 
long and heavy, with the hundreds of soldiers being sent 
to the front. We could scarcely get a seat; even with two 
locomotives, the train made very poor time. Most of the 
men were conscripts, and it was pathetic to see their 
mothers, wives and sweethearts bidding them adieu. 

July 17th. — We went to the Acropolis once more, 
I made a kodak of Constantine and J. in front of the 
temple of Athena Nike, or Victory. It was here that 
Aegeus stood looking to see his son's ship return from 
Crete. 

The Cretans demanded each year six of the choicest 
youths and six of the choicest maidens as a sacrifice to 
the Sacred Bull, which inhabited the Labyrinth. These 
were selected by drawing lots. One year the lot fell to 
Theseus, son of Aegeus. After blessing him and pray- 
ing over him, his father told him that if by any chance 
the gods should see fit to spare his life and send him back, 
he was to change the black sails — always carried by the 



Ten Months o n tli e W ing . 75 

fatal bark— to white, in order that he (the father) might 
the sooner know of his son's safety. 

Now Ariadne, daughter of the King of Crete, fell in 
love with Theseus on sight and interceded with her father 
for his life. She gave Theseus a string in order that lie 
might find his way out of the Labyrinth. He, in his de- 
light at his escape from death, forgot her as she lay asleep 
and started home to Athens. In his eagerness to arrive, 
he also forgot to change the sails to white, and when Ae- 
geus, who was watching, saw the black sails he thought 
his son was no more, and threw himself from the top of 
the rock, just at the Temple of Nike. He was killed, and 
thus, so 'tis said, came the sea to be called the Aegean, or 
sea of Aegeus. 

We visited the bazaars in the afternoon. 

July 18th. — ^Left Athens by train to Piraeus, only 
a fifteen minutes' run. Cook's man took us in a rowboat 
to the steamer Ismalia, of the Khedivial Line ; we sailed 
at four P. M. 

"Adios" to Greece. 

July 19th. — We passed the Isle of Crete today — 
are out of sight of land. There are only a fev; passen- 
gers, and they are nearly all sick. 

July 20Tn. — Reached Alexandria at nine A. M., but 
owing to quarantine regulations, did not land until 
twelve. We had to be examined by the physician, as our 
ship had sailed from Constantinople, where they still have 
cholera. We feel no apprehension for ourselves, as for- 
eigners seem to be immune. Many people are inoculated 
for it before coming to the Orient. 

We had lunch at the Station Restaurant. 

Left Alexandria at three P. M. and arrived at Cairo 
at six P. M. 

I saw a funny sight as we landed at Alexandria. A 



76 T e 11 Mont h s on the TF ing . 

man took off his Ijig baggy trousers, dipped them into the 
sea, and put them on again — to cool off, I presume ! 

July 21st. — Eden Palace Hotel. — We found Egypt 
and Cairo far beyond our expectations in every way. The 
Nile Valley is rich beyond description, and Cairo is a fine 
modern city in many ways, but dirty. The proprietor of 
our hotel seems to be a very cordial gentleman; he took 
us out to see the city in his carriage. There are many 
handsome buildings and fine residences in the suburbs; 
splendid parks, one just in front of our hotel, the Esbeki- 
yeh Garden, where the band plays several times during 
the week. 

Mr. Papodopulo, proprietor of the hotel, is a Greek. 
He is very attentive to us, and extremely kind — fills our 
room with flowers and takes us out every day to show and 
explain to us things of interest. 

Today we visited the Zoological Gardens. They have 
a fine collection of birds and animals. It was formerly 
the Garden of Ali Ashim Pasha, and was occupied by his 
harem of three hundred and ten wives. It is the most 
unique place of the kind to be found anywhere. The 
Pasha here constructed everything imaginable in the way 
of a pleasure ground for his large family, sending to 
France and Italy for architects and landscape gardeners 
to build grottoes, fountains and baths, miles of beautiful 
mosaic walks, canals, bridges, lagoons with gondolas, and 
floating gardens with trees and flowers of every variety — 
all surrounded by a wall thirty feet high. It was indeed 
a "beautiful prison," and if anything could reconcile these 
women to their incarceration, they might have been con- 
tent, if not happy. Many dreadful things happened in- 
side these enclosures. Knowing that their lord was all- 
powerful and had as many wives as he cared to have, it 
was not unnatural that the women should seek for lovers 
on the outside; consequently there was much intrigue and 
many liaisons. For what did thirty feet of wall ever 
amount to where love was concerned? Often the lover 



Ten Months on the Wing. 77 

was caught — then nothing was ever heard of him again. 

Ali Ashim Pasha was father to the present Khedive. 
He was a great spendthrift, anl ahnost bankrupted tlie 
country. 

When the English assumed supervision, they took 
this palace for a "Zoo" and curtailed his expensive habits. 
The present Khedive is a thrifty business man, and as 
the English manage the government for him, it leaves 
him leisure to carry on his financial affairs. He is con- 
sequently a wealthy man, owning much valuable land and 
business property in the cit3^ 

July 22nd. — We went to the Citadel on the hill ; vis- 
ited the Mosque of Mohammed-Ali, and also El-Azhar. 
The Mosque is magnificent, patterned after St. Sophia in 
Constantinople. 

We also saw the Well of Moses, a shaft cut down 
three hundred feet into the earth. You can see the water 
far below, or if one desires, he may descend to the water^s 
edge by a steep incline, but we did not think it worth the 
effort. 

July 23rd. — Went with a dragoman by tram eight 
miles to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, then walked about half 
a mile. There has been more written and told about 
these ancient monuments than about any other subject in 
history. It is told of Cheops that he anticipated that a 
great statue of himself would occupy a place in the tomb 
after his demise; but as he was greatly disliked by his 
subjects, the only statue found when the excavations were 
made is a small figure in ivory not over four inches long. 
He was a cruel tyrant. 

This enormous pile of stone is four hundred and fifty 
feet high and seven hundred and fifty-five feet long on 
each of the four sides at the base. 

We went around to the Sphinx, which has been gaz- 
ing into futurity for six thousand years, but has never 
divulged a single secret of the ages. No one has evei' 



78 Ten Months on the Wing. 

succeeded in solving the mj^stery of its erection, and prob- 
ably never will, although scientists have concluded that 
it is the image of the Egyptian deity, Harmachis, "God 
of the Morning." The body is one hundred and forty 
feet in length, head thirty feet from forehead to chin 
and fourteen feet across. The front paws are fifty feet 
in length and the height of the figure is nearly seventy 
feet. In 1896 an American Egyptologist discovered the 
Klaft, or stone cap, known to have been the head cover- 
ing of the Sphinx. Dean Stanley, in one of Ms descrip- 
tions, wonders, apropos of the colossal head, "what the 
sight must have been when on its head there was tlie 
royal helmet of Egypt," The steadily encroaching sands 
of the desert have buried the greater portion of the body. 
It is believed that discoveries of the greatest importance 
would be made if funds were available for further excava- 
tions. The figure has been greatly mutilated by fanaf-.ic 
Mussulmen, Before the mutilation it is said to have worn 
an expression of "softest beauty and winning grace." 
Kinglake, in his classical description, says, "And near the 
Pyramids, more wondrous and more awful than all else 
in the land of Egypt, there sits the lonely Sphinx. Come- 
ly the creature is, but the comeliness is not of this world; 
the once worshipped beast is a deformity and a monster 
to this generation; and yet, you can see that those lipf!, 
so thick and heavy, were fashioned according to some an- 
cient mould of beauty — some mould of beauty now for- 
gotten — forgotten because that Greece drew forth Cythe- 
rea from the flashing foam of the Aegean, and in her 
image created new forms of beauty, and made it a law 
among men that the short and proudly-wreathed lip 
should stand for the sign and the main condition of love- 
liness through all generations to come. Yet still there 
lives on the race of those who were beautiful in the fash- 
ion of the older world; and Christian girls of Coptic blood 
will look on you with the sad, serious gaze and kiss your 
charitable hand with the big pouting lips of the very 
Sphinx." 



Ten Months, on the W ing . 79 

The next largest pja^amid is Chephren, four hundred 
feet high, built by Kha-f-Ea, 3660 B. C. 

The smallest pyramid, called Her, was built by My- 
cerinus as a tomb for himself and his family. This is 
two hundred and fifty feet high. 

We made a foolish attempt to descend into the in- 
terior of the Great Pyramid, but after being pulled and 
jerked by six Bedouins until almost un jointed, veritably 
feeling like "shoestrings,'' and then finding we had only 
reached the first level, we declined to go further, much 
to the disappointment of the Bedouins. The descent is 
very slippery. One cannot keep on one's feet, even with 
the support of the Arabs. The weather being extremely 
warm, we decided it was really unsafe to proceed. The 
Arabs pounce upon a tourist like a pack of hungry wolves, 
and you think they will tear you limb from limb in their 
fierce demands for baksheesh (money.) Were they not 
afraid, I believe they would commit highway robbery. I 
rode a donkey back from the pyramids; the donkey boy 
informed me that his name was California. 

Every one takes a siesta from twelve to four o'clock. 
At that hour our dragoman came with a carriage and we 
drove to Old Cairo, visiting the Mosque of Amru, a copy 
of the Mosque of Mecca, and the oldest in Cairo. For- 
merly the grounds belonged to a Jewish woman, Omar 
offered to buy it from her for camel skins. She accepted 
the offer, bu.t Omar practiced chicanery, as is the custom 
here to this day. He took a camel skin and cut it into 
strings, laying it around the ground that he wanted, thus 
offering one skin in payment. The woman was so indig- 
nant that she made a trip to Mecca to see Saladin, and 
laid her complaint before him, as to the treatment of- 
fered her by his son, Omar. Saladin commanded his so)i 
to pay her all she asked, or deliver up the land. As the 
Mosque already occupied the ground, he offered her pay- 
ment in gold. Being overcome by the generosity of Omar, 
she finally adopted Mohammedanism and presented the 
ground to them. 



80' Ten Months on the Wing: 

There is an ancient Roman aqueduct and fortress 
near the Coptic Church of St. Mary's; the church is said 
to be the place where Mary and Joseph hid when fleeing 
from Herod. The custodian showed us the place in the 
crypt and the font where Mary bathed the infant Jesus. 
A Coptic church somewhat resembles a fort, and the By- 
zantine influence is clearly traceable in the basilica form. 
The Coj)ts derive their name from Coptos (now Kopt in 
Egypt), and are the sole representatives of the ancient 
race who built the pyramids. By guarding their faith in 
the hostile presence of Mohammedanism, they have doubt- 
less preserved their name and race. They are Nonophysites, 
following the teachings of Jacob Baradeus, sixth century. 
They practice baptism and circumcision and are required 
to confess their sins. They fast on Wednesdays and Fri- 
days and observe the Seven Great Feasts, 

From here we drove to the place said to be the spot 
where Moses was found in the bulrushes. The Nilometer, 
used to mark the rise of the Nile, is located near. h\ 
former times taxes of the fellahs were arranged on a slid- 
ing scale, dependent on the rise of the Nile. The ancient 
custom of offering a sacrifice to the Nile is still practiced. 
Wlien the waters reach a certain height, the people cele- 
brate the occasion, and offer coins and a wooden or straw 
figure of a young girl. These are thrown into the stream. 
One year the Jews throAv in a wooden image, the next 
year the Eg3^ptians throw in a straw image. 

July 24th. — Visited the Museum, containing the 
largest and most valuable collection of Egyptian antiques 
in the world. Space and time allow only a brief mention 
of the most popular and interesting. The statue of Keph- 
ren, builder of the second pyramid ; a famous v/ooden 
statue of "The Village Sheik," which when brought to 
the surface in the excavations, the Arabs greeted with 
cries of "El Shekh el-Beled;" a limestone statue of Ea- 
hetep and his wife, Nefert; a remarkable water color of 
geese, still retaining its coloring in a wonderful degree; 



Ten M o n ths o u the W i ng . 81 

the celebrated Hyksos Sphinx in black granite; famous 
triumphal stela of Tothmes III; a colossal statue of the 
god Ptah, in sandstone. In the Israel Stela is a black 
granite stela with early inscriptions that speak of the 
Children of Israel being spoiled and having no seed. This 
is the first allusion to the Israelites by name found as yet. 
The tablet of Sakkarah gives a complete list of the nam^es 
of fifty-six of the earliest kings, the first being Merbapen, 
a king of the first dynasty. "The Decree of Canopus/^ an- 
other famous tablet, is inscribed in Greek and Demotic 
(non-pictorial) characters. Probably had not the Rosetta 
Stone been found, this tablet, with its three-fold inscrip- 
tion, would have proved the key to the language and 
writings of the ancient Egyptians. 

There are several hundred mummies, among the 
most important being that of Sequnen-Ea, killed in bat- 
tle — his face is badly mutilated. A mummy of Tothmes 
II has the hair still adhering to the head, as has also that 
of Eameses II, whose hair appears gray. He was the 
"Pharaoh of the Oppression." A mummy of Meneptah, 
the "Pharaoh of the Exodus"; also one of Rameses III, 
together with the coffin and mummy of Queen Ma-ka-Ea 
and her infant daughter. Some of these mummies were 
enclosed in four coffins of wood and several of stone, one 
inside the other. The collection of jewelry is rich and 
beautiful and would compare favorably with that of today. 
There are numerous mummies of animals — such as mon- 
keys, sheep, gazelle, birds and fowls; images of sacred 
cats and crocodiles. The crocodile was called Sabek, or 
God of Darkness. Horus was God of Light. One re- 
cently excavated statue of interest is that of the sacred 
Cow of Hather, found at Thebes. There are several of 
the Sacred Bull. 

After lunch we drove to Heliopolis and the Obelisk, 
the oldest in all Egypt — it was brought dov/n from As- 
souan. It is one of the four famous obelisks now extant, 
one being in jSFew York, one in London, one was lost in 
the sea in transit to France, and the fourth is at Heliopo- 



82 Ten M onths on the W i n g . 

lis. Heliopolis was called the City of the Sun. How im- 
portant it was may be Judged from the fact that the 
greatest sages of Greece came to stay here and to be in- 
itiated into the doctrines of the Priests of the Temple. 
Nothing remains of the city but a pile of debris. It was 
one of the earliest cities of the world, dating back to the 
second dynasty. Here was established the cult of the Sa- 
cred Bulls. The Sun is the most ancient object of wor- 
ship of the early Egyptians. His birth — the Sun's — each 
day as he springs from the bosom of the nocturnal heav- 
ens, is the natural emblem of the eternal generation of 
divinity. Heliopolis was the mother city of Baalbec. 
Some indication of the architectural splendor of the an- 
cient city may be gained from measurements of the 
stone blocks. The largest is sixtj^-four feet long and four- 
teen feet in width, being the same in thickness. 

Matarich is not more than a mile distant, and, ac- 
cording to etymologists, means "City of the Sun." \x 
was originally a portion of Heliopolis. The feature of 
interest here is the sycamore tree, under which Mary is 
said to have rested on her flight into Egypt. The tree 
now standing, of course, is not the tree of the legend. 
This one is only three hundred years old; no doubt it is 
planted on the spot where the ancient tree grew. 

The Virgin's Well, near by, is where Mary bathed the 
Baby. 

Within the past six years a new and modern city has 
sprung up on the site of the ancient Heliopolis. A Bel- 
gian company purchased the ground, built two electric 
lines from Cairo — a fort}^ minutes' ride — and have built 
many handsome pensions, fiats, villas, amusement parks 
(with all the up-to-date arrangements, scenic railways, 
chutes, et cetera) ; also the finest hotel in the world (or 
so said to be.) 

July 25th. — We rested all day; in the evening Mr. 
Papadopolo drove us out to another fine park, with pretty 
grottoes, which is the property of the Khedive. 



Ten Months on the W ing . 83 

July 26th. — Went to Cook's and found a cablegram 
from Cousin S. and Mr. J., with election news. 

This evening we were walking down the street when 
a small urchin accosted me with, "Lady, do you want to 
ride Teddy Eoosevelt?" 

July 27th. — My birthday! Spent the morning in 
the Esbekiya Garden. Our landlord sent me lovely flow- 
ers when he learned it was my natal day. 

July 28th. — Went to Memphis and Sakkarah with 
our dragoman, Mahomet Fargali; then by train to Bedra- 
sheen. 

We narroAvly escaped a serious accident. Just out 
of the station, where we took a sand-car for the rest of the 
journey, the horse, an untrained anim_al, in crossing the 
track became frightened. The boy who was leading him 
(they all have to be led, it seems) let go the reins. The 
horse reared and backed into the canal; J., fearing the 
two-wheeled cart would turn over with us and fall on me, 
jumped, or rather fell, out into the water — fortunately it 
was shallow — and called to me to jump. An Arab pulled 
me out on the other side and the horse and cart both went 
down the embankment. It was with difficulty that they 
were extricated. We were thankful to get off with a wet- 
ting and a broken umbrella. 

We finally arrived at the first object of interest — a 
colossal statue of Eameses II, forty feet long. When un- 
earthed it was lying on its back; the crown had becomLO 
detached. He is represented in the act of presenting an 
ostrich feather to his daughter on her nuptial day. Were 
it a "willow plume," it were an expensive gift indeed! 

Farther on we came to another statue of Eameses, 
which has been presented to the English government by 
Mohammed Ali, but has not yet been removed. The face 
is a very handsome one for Egyptian features. It is il- 
luminated by a pleasant smile which makes it appear life- 
like; it, also, is forty feet high. These statues were erect- 



84 T 6 71 Months on the Wing. 

ed by Sesostris in front of the Temple of Ptah. 

Memphis is said to have been founded by Menes, 
and is of very remote antiquity. Some historians make 
it date back even to the time of Adam. The fact has been 
established that it was a flourishing city under the sixth 
dynasty. 

Memphis was the capital of Egypt until the eigh- 
teenth dynasty, when Alexandria was made the capital. 
Its history for centuries was that of conquest in turn hy 
Assyrian, Ethiopian, Persian and Greek invaders, until 
the terrible prophecy of Jeremiah v/as fulfilled — "Mem- 
phis shall become a desert; she shall be forsaken, and be- 
come uninhabited." Now it is nothing but a pile of stones 
and maid bricks. 

At Sakkarah, a distance of two miles, are the tombs 
and pyramids known as the Step Pyramid and Oonas Py- 
ramid. The principal tomb, usually called the Serapeum. 
is that of the Sacred Bulls, they having been buried he^-e 
since the eighteenth dynasty up to the time of the Ptole- 
mies. Only the portion of the mausoleum which formed 
the burial place of these animals from 650 B. C. to 50 B. 
C. is shown to visitors. Twenty-four of these mortuary 
chambers, each containing a sarcophagus averaging thir- 
teen feet long, seven feet broad and eleven feet high, are 
to be seen. Some would weigh sixtj^-five tons. They are 
mostly of porphyry brought from Assouan and Luxor, 
Only three of the later sarcophagi have inscriptions; one 
is handsomely polished and ornamented with hieroglyph- 
ics. They were discovered by Mariette in 1860. He con- 
jectured, from certain inscriptions on sphinxes he had 
found, that the long-lost Temple of Osiris-Apis — or, as 
the Greeks termed it, the Temple of Serapis (for they, 
too, worshipped the bull) was near Memphis. He was so 
fortunate as to light upon the mausoleum in his excava- 
tions. No remains of the bulls were found, they having 
evidently been rifled of their treasures by invading ' ar- 
mies. A dramatic element given to the discovery of the 
sacred sepulchral chamber was the footprints in the sand 



Ten M ontlis. on the Wing. 85 

that covered the floor. These were made by the workmen, 
three thousand seven hundred years before. How little 
did they think that the tombs would ever be opened! 

A characteristic feature of the Egyptian faith was 
the reverence "paid to certain animals and birds, wh'ch 
continues to this day, A bull was kept twenty-four years, 
and if he outlived that time, was killed and offered as a 
sacrifice. If he died before that time, a new one replaced 
him. It sometimes happened that for years the priests 
were unable to discover an animal with all the complex 
markings corresponding to the ideal Apis. 

The tomb of Thi, a priest of the fifth dynasty, is one 
of the most interesting, as well as the most elaborately 
decorated Ancient Empire tomb yet discovered; the 
chambers and corridors are rather a subterranean temple 
than a tomb. The paintings and sculpture are skilfully 
executed, the colors being remarkable. A long entrance 
extends into the corridor, from which steps lead do"\\n 
through two more long passages, very low, so one has to 
stoop to enter ere the crypt is reached. This indicates 
their efforts to securely hide the tomb — but the "best laid 
plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." 

The tomb of Ptah-Iietep is of the fifth dynasty, and 
is almost as interesting as those of Mera and Thi. The 
pictorial reliefs are particularly fine. 

The Step Pyramid is one of the most remarkable in 
all Egypt. If Mariette is correct in attributing it to Uene- 
phus, a king of the first dynasty, then it must be the old- 
est historic building in the world. It must have been 
erected over two thousand years before the birth of Abra- 
ham. Two others of the pyramids are small ; another 
very large one is not open to visitors. 

The country around ancient Memphis and Sakkarah 
is covered with an immense forest of date palms, while the 
rich valley is planted at the present season to kaffir corn. 
They grow four crops a year on the soil ; wheat, cotton, 
corn and cane for sugar. But the ancient mode of cultiva- 
tion still obtains. Plowing with oxen and wooden plows; 



86 Ten M onths on the Wing. 

raising water from the Nile, while it is low, with a horse, 
ox or camel. After August, the sowing season begins at 
Assouan. Then the river rises rapidly, and the flood- 
gates are lifted to let the water spread over the land. 

The camel is the chief beast of burden — costs from 
twenty-five to one hundred and twenty- five dollars, ac- 
cording to the size and age. The donkey comes next iu 
order of importance for transportation and, as in all coun- 
tries he inhabits, is cruelly treated. Often you cannot see 
the animal for the load he carries. 

The streets of Cairo are a kaleidoscope of colors after 
five o'clock, when every one goes out for an airing. The 
costumes of the males vary according to taste: one will 
dress in modern garb except his fez; another will wear a 
long skirt down to the ground, with a modern coat over 
it; some wear bright pink or blue long skirts, with an- 
other long dark skirt over them, and others wear several 
of these — perhaps one of silk, one of cotton and one of 
woolen stuff. The native women wear a black veil over 
the lower part of the face, with a nose-piece of bamboo, 
decorated with gold bands, and immense ear-rings. The 
Turkish women and slave women wear a Avhite veil, slav- 
ery in a modified form still being in practice. One can- 
not buy a slave without the consent of the person pur- 
chased. As soon as a man gets a few dollars ahead, he 
buys another wife. He can divorce them at will, but 
must find someone else to take them. Our dragoman said 
that his people married him to a girl Avhen he was eigh- 
teen years old, but on seeing her he did not like her, so 
he had them marry her to another man; now he has an 
Austrian wife. They never see one another until after 
marriage; it is like "buying a pig in a poke." 

July 29th. — Spent the day resting. 

July 30th. — Went with Mohamet to visit the tombs 
of the Caliphs. The Mosque of Kait Bey is small, but 
has an elegant dome and is a model of elegance and grace 



T e n Mont h s. o n the W ing . 87 

in all its parts. The two sacred relics are the slabs of 
red and of black granite. One has a depression the si?;e 
and shape of a man's foot, the other of his hand. The 
legend attached to them is that they were brought from 
Mecca, the depressions having been made by the hand and 
the foot of Mohammed. 

The Miosqiie of El-Ashraf has a fine dome, with in- 
tricate patterns oi stone-chasing, and a mosaic pavement, 
which is an excellent specimen of Saracenic art. 

The Mosque of the Khedive Thewfik is very hand- 
some, though modern; it contains the tomb of himself 
and wife. 

There are thousands of minor tombs of private fami- 
lies, some only "freshly dead," as the dragoman put it. 

We came home through the region of Bazaars. 
They form an immense network of streets and alleys and 
represent a moving panorama of Egyptians, Turks, Moors 
and Jews — all crying their wares as one goes by. Many 
of the antiques and curios were made in Europe, though 
some are genuine. We bought a few trinkets from a Jew- 
ish Mason. A man tried to sell me a live lizard this 
morning; he was quite persistent about it, too. 

July 31st. — Went with our landlord to the Barrage, 
a huge dam built across the Nile at the head of the Delta. 
The dam is a double one, nearly two miles in length, con- 
nected by a high v/all originally planned as a fortress. 
The Damietta branch span is six hundred yards long, the 
Rosetta five hundred yards. (The Nile forms three 
mouths at Cairo.) There are a hundred and thirty arches 
and six towers at intervals of about two hundred and fifty 
yards. There is a splendid park in connection with the 
Barrage, containing a great variety of trees and flowers; 
but these lovely parks are not appreciated by the Egyp- 
tians, who prefer to loaf around the cafes and play domi- 
noes all day long. 

We went by train to the first tower, then for a dis- 



88 Ten Months on the Wing. 

tance of two miles we went by hand-car on a miniature 
railway, propelled by an Arab. 

August 1st. — Made preparations to leave Cairo. 

Our landlord has formed quite an attachment for 
us. He says he hopes to see us once again before he dies. 
He has been quite kind to us — like the landlords in Nor- 
way' — which is saying a great deal. It makes one realize 
that humanity is the same the world over. It is pleasant 
to find nevr friends, especially in foreign lands. 

August 2nd. — Left Cairo at eleven A. M. Mr. Papo- 
dopolo came to the train to see us off, and brought me a 
lovely bouquet of roses and a bottle of perfume from Ara- 
bia. 

Arrived at Port Said at three-ten P. M. Hotel East- 
ern Exchange. — Nice and cool here. The city is on a 
point of land with water on three sides. 

August 3ed. — Left Port Said at live P. M. 

August 4th. — Arrived at Jaffa at seven A. M. )n 
the steamer Tewfikeah. The disembarking was very dif- 
ficult. Owing to the numerous breakers, the boat can only 
come within a mile of the shore, and the landing is made 
in small boats. A screaming, howling mob attacked the 
ship, pulling and dragging the passengers into their 
boats. The waves are so high that the boats are dashed 
against the sides of the ship. J. got quite wet; two men 
dragged me into the boat by main force. 

At Jaffa we met our new dragoman, Kalile Gandour, 
who goes with us all through the Holy Land — a journey 
of twenty-one days. 

We took a carriage drive to the tomb of Dorcas, out 
on the road that St. Peter traveled in going to Jaffa; and 
then to the house of Simon the Tanner (Acts ix:9-48>. 

Had lunch at the Hardegg's Jerusalem Hotel. Th«i 



Ten Months, on the W ing . S'J 

rooms are not numbered in this hotel, but are named for 
Biblical characters; ours was Jeremiah. 

The Jaffa of Scriptures, meaning "beautiful," men- 
tioned in Joshua xix. 46, is within the boundaries of Dan. 
In Solomon's time, when Hiram, King of Tyre, sent the 
cedars and pine-wood for the building of the Temple, he 
said : "And we will cut the wood out of Lebanon as much 
as thou shalt need; and will bring it to thee in floats by 
sea to Jaffa, and thou shalt carry it to Jerusalem." 
(II Chron. ii. 16.) 

The city has suffered many vicissitudes. For over a 
thousand years it has been the landing-place for pilgrims 
to Jerusalem. 

Started for Jerusalem at one-thirty; the road, by rail, 
is through the Yalley of Sharon. En route there are sev- 
eral places of historic interest. Lydda, mentioned in Acts 
ix. 32-35 ; Akir, the modern representative of ancient Ek- 
ron (Jos. xiii. 3 ; Jos. xv. 45.) It was one of the cities not 
captured by Joshua. After his death it was taken by 
Judah (Judges i. 18.) It is especially mentioned in the 
history of the time when the ark was in the land of the 
Philistines (I Sam. v.-vi.) Ekron is mentioned in the 
time of Jehoshaphat as the center of idolatrous worship. 
It was not far from here that the she-bear ate the child- 
ren who, mocked Elisha, and the judgment that came upon 
the place was predicted by many of the prophets. In the 
Apocrypha it is mentioned as the place given by Alexan- 
der Balas to Jonathan Maccabaeus in reward for his ser- 
vices, and at a much later date it is mentioned in connec- 
tion with a march of King Baldwin (A. D. 1100.) 

Next we come to the station of Sajed, famous in the 
story of Samson and Delilah (Judges xvi. 4, to the end. 1 

The station of Deir Aban is reached after three miles. 

Immediately after the train enters the ravine, we 
come to a large cave in the beetling precipice, known as 
the Cave of Samson, where he retired after "smiting the 
Philistines hip and thigh." (Judges xv. 12-15.) 



90 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Ain el Hanieli marks the place where Phillip bap- 
tized the Ethiopian eunuch. (Acts viii. 38.) 

The monastery of Mar Elyas is located in the tradi- 
tional "Vale of Eephaim." (Joshua xv. 8, and Sam. v. 
32.) (Here David smote the Philistines.) 

The train enters the station at Jerusalem to the south 
of the city, not far from the Jaffa Gate. The Eose of 
Sharon, or narcissus, still grows here in profusion during 
the early spring months. 

Another place of Biblical importance between Jaffa 
and Jerusalem is the Tell el Jezer, or Eoyal City of tho 
Canaanites. This place is mentioned in tablets of the 
fifteenth century B. C. by the Egyptians. In recent years 
the Palestine Exploration Fund has made extensive exca- 
vations here and found abundant evidence of the import- 
ance of the city in ancient times. It was invaded by Da- 
vid, captured and burned by Pharaoh, who gave it for a 
present to his daughter, Solomon's wife; it is often re- 
ferred to as Gazara. In 1177 A. D., Saladin was defeated 
by the Christians in an attack on this place. The walls 
date from 300 B. C. The most unicjue find was the Sem- 
itic High-Place, consisting of an alignment of eight rough 
stone pillars from five and a half to eleven feet high. In 
connection with the temple were found remains of human 
infant sacrifices and a small "brazen serpent." In this 
Tell over two hundred caves have been found, in which 
rude drawings of animals, cows, horses, buffaloes and sca- 
rabs were discovered. Over two hundred and fifty tomb;? 
containing cereals, bottles of wine, spoons and knives were 
dug up. Another important discovery was an underground 
tunnel leading to a supply of water. 

jSText in importance is the Valley of Ajalon, where 
Joshua commanded the sun and moon to stand still. 
(Joshua X. 12-13.) Near the top of the mountain we 
pass Saris. The village of Ain Karim is said to be the 
birthplace of St. John the Baptist (Luke i. 39), while Ko- 
lonieh is supposed to be the Emmaus of St. Luke's Gos- 
pel. Lifta is generally identified with Nephtoah (Joshua 



Ten Months, on the Wing. 01 

XV. 9.) Birket Mamilla is perhaps the "Upper Pool." We 
passed near these towns, but not through them. 

GeajStd New Hotel, Jerusalem, August 5th. — We 
visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The first ob- 
ject we see on entering is the Stone of Unction, where the 
body of Christ was laid when taken from the cross; there 
is seldom an hour in the day when someone is not kissing 
this stone. Large lamps and candelabra hang over it — 
these belonging to the Armenians, Greeks, Latins and 
Copts. There are five churches in one. It is greatly in 
need of repairs, but not one of the sects will consent to 
the other doing the work, for the sect that makes the re- 
pairs will claim it as private property. What few repairs 
have been made were done by Mohammedans, guarded by 
a body of soldiers. So fierce is the Jealousy that on fes- 
tal days, such as Easter, it requires a strong force of arm- 
ed troops to keep the peace; and even these have proved 
ineffectual in preventing bloodshed on occasions. Four 
5^ears ago six people were killed on Easter. People gather 
from all over the world on that day, believing that the 
sacred fire descends from heaven onto the Sacred Tomb 
at two o'clock in the afternoon. The Holy Sepulchre 
stands in the center of the rotunda in a small chapel, 
twenty feet long by eighteen feet wide, built of Santa 
Croce marble. A low door leads to it from the eastern 
vestibule. The interior is six by seven feet; here forty- 
eight lamps are always burning. 'No part of the original 
stone is visible from the interior, as people have carried 
it off in small particles as souvenirs until it had to bo 
covered up entirely. 

The chapel of the Syrians is in the original part of 
the church built by Constantine — so dark is it that can- 
dles are a necessity. Here are the tombs of ISTicodemus 
and Joseph of Arimathea, with others lower down. A 
Syrian hermit occupies these tombs as a bedchamber. 

North of the Sepulchre is the Latin vestibule, where 
a slab of inlaid marble marks the spot where Mary Mag- 



92 Ten Months on the W i n g . 

dalene stood when Jesiis said to her, "Woman, why weep- 
est thou?" (John xx. 15.) 

Ascending three steps, we enter the Eoman chapel. 
On the right is an altar, and on it a stick. By putting 
the stick into a hole over the altar a stone is touched, 
called the Column of the Scourging, to which Christ was 
bound and scourged by order of Pilate. This column is 
shown to Latins on Wednesday of Holy Week. The stone 
was formerly in the house of Caiaphas on Zion. Near 
here is the Sacristy where the sword, spurs and cross of 
Godfrey di Bouillon are kept by a Franciscan monk. 

The Chapel of Saint Longinus is to the left. Saint 
Longinus was the centurion who said, "Truly this man 
was the Son of God.'' Next to it is the Chapel of the 
Division of the Vestments. 

Near this is a flight of twent}^-nine steps, leading 
down to the Chapel of St. Helena and the Chapel of the 
Cross — the place where the True Cross was found. 

Eeturning to the Sepulchre, we find a flight of eigh- 
teen steps, which we ascend to Calvary. Under this chapel 
you may see the holes in the stone where the crosses stood. 
Under Calvary is Golgotha (Hebrew for skull.) Tradi- 
tion affirms that Adam was buried here. 

Adjoining this is the Chapel of the Nailing of the 
Cross. Near the altar, on Calvary, is a long brass cover 
over the Eent in the Eock, made by the earthquake at the 
time of the Crucifixion. 

South of this we see through a window the small 
Chapel of St. Mary — the spot where Mary and the be- 
loved disciple stood, when the most touchingly pathetic 
incident in the Gospel history occurred. (John xix. 25- 
27.) 

From here we went to the new Lutheran church, and 
then down the Via Dolorosa to a new Eoman church. 

Later we drove to the Mount of Olives, on the old 
road to Damascus, stopping on the way to visit the Tomb 
of the Kings of Judah — most interesting. Just outside 
are the cisterns where the water was caught from troughs, 



T e n M o n ths. o n the W i n g . 93 

hollowed out of the natural stone^ as are also the cisterns 
and tombs. In a circular basin near by the bodies were 
bathed before burial. We enter a large square excava- 
tion. On one facade were several stone columns, a com- 
bination of Eoman and Doric, forming the front of a por- 
tico. Descending three stone steps and entering a door 
so low we had to stoop, we found ourselves in a subter- 
ranean room about fourteen feet square, where the last 
ceremonies were performed. A stone seat encircles the 
wall, and from this the tombs open, three and four on a 
side. Above the tombs were places for altars and a tri- 
angular niche for the oil lamp — the triangle signifying 
Father, Son and Holy Ghost. 

Ascending the Mount of Olives, we first went to the 
Place of the Ascension, where Mary stood when she saw 
the vision. There is a Eoman chapel on the spot. 

From there we walked over to the place where Christ 
ascended into heaven. This site is occupied by a Moslem 
mosque, but Catholics are allowed to worship there. From 
here a path leads to the spot from which Christ first saw 
the city of Jerusalem. On our left lies the Valley of 
Kidron; far to the right lies the Dead Sea and the Eiver 
Jordan, with the Mountains of Moab in the background. 
(Our hotel is situated on Mount Zion.) 

Our dragoman is an amusing fellow; his name. Can- 
dour, means "jolly,'' and his Christian name, Kalil, mean- 
ing Abraham, or a "friend," so, fully interpreted, his name 
means "a jolly friend." He was in charge of the Pales- 
tine exhibition at St. Louis in 1904; was also chief drago- 
man to the Emperor of Germany when he toured the Holy 
Land. 

He told us of his experience with his tents while in 
St. Louis'. It seems that they assigned him a place on 
one side, where no one ever came : he stood it for three 
weeks and then went to Cook's and told them he was go- 
ing to move his tents to a better location. They remon- 
strated with him, telling him he would be arrested if he 
undertook it, but he persisted, and they washed their 



94 Ten Months on the Wing. 

hands of all responsibility. One morning at sunrise he 
had all his tents moved over on the road to the "Boer 
War," where everybody passed. A policeman came by 
and told him to report to the Board of Managers, which 
he did. President Erancis asked him by whose authority 
he had moved his tents. Kalil, being equal to the occa- 
sion, said: "Now, see here, we came over to show you 
people how we travel in the Holy Land; and this is the 
way we do it — when a sheik tires of one place he pulls 
up stakes and moves to another place; if he happens to 
locate in a man's field, he pays damages and stays there 
as long as he cares to; but if he doesn't like the location, 
he moves again. Now, if we don't like it here, we will 
move to some other place, just as they do at home." Mr. 
Francis laughed and said : "No, no ! for gracious sake 
stay where you are, and be done with it." 

August 6th. — Arose at four A. M. ; had breakfast 
and v/as on the road to Jericho by five o'clock. We drove 
three horses to a light spring wagon. Jericho is twenty- 
four miles from Jerusalem, and eleven hundred feet 
lower. The road is frightfully rough. I use the word ad- 
visedly, for it seems miraculous that the carriage does 
not go over the embankment; in places where the road is 
quite narrow, the third horse could scarcely keep the road. 
Going down is not quite so bad, but it is like driving up a 
stairway when returning. 

Prom the A230stles' Fountain there is a steep descent 
to Bethany, the home of Mary, Martha and Lazarus. Visi- 
tors are shown the foundation of their house and the rock 
tomb of Lazarus. Some few miles further down is an inn 
where refreshing drinks are sold. 

Soon after this we came to the "Backache Stone," 
where those who have that trouble are immediately re- 
lieved after rubbing against it and leaving a small stone 
on top as an offering. Our dragoman insisted on our 
dismounting and doing the "stunf — so we need fear no 
more trouble of that kind. 



Ten Months, on the Wing. 95 

A little over half way, we reached the house of the 
Good Samaritan, where we stopped to rest the horses and 
buy post cards. From here to Jericho the road is just a 
rocky place between mountains. The road passes to the 
right of the Moslem shrine of Neby Musa, the traditional 
burial-place of Moses. Shortly after there appears on tlie 
left a deep gorge, Wady Kelt, thought by some to be the 
Valley of Achor. A narrow path leads along the moun- 
tain side to the Convent of St. George, this being the 
place where he killed the dragon. The gorge is a deep, 
narrow ravine between the mountains and only accessible 
to pedestrians. Numerous hermits live in the caves ou 
the precipitous sides, who entertain pilgrims from Eussia 
when they are journeying to Jericho. At this season the 
mountains are entirely void of herbage, and appear brown 
stony wastes. We are told that they are green in winter 
— January and February being the rainy season. 

We reached Jericho about nine-thirty A.- M., but 
drove through and out beyond the tov/n to the ancient 
Jericho of Joshua. Some of the foundation stones are 
still in place. Kear by is the Pool or Fountain of Elisha, 
where Christ used the salt to sweeten the water. 

Eeturning to Hotel Belle Yue, we lunched and rest- 
ed until two-thirty. We then drove down to the Jordan 
washed our hands in its waters; then drove to the Dead 
Sea, eight miles from Jericho. It is forty-six miles in 
length, nine and one-half miles in its greatest width, its 
average depth is 1,080 feet, and it is 1,300 feet lower than 
the Mediterranean. There- are some few shells that are 
washed down from the Lake of Galilee. We dipped our 
hands in the water; they felt sticky, as though dipped in 
brine. 

We returned to Jericho and spent the night. From 
our window we have a view of the Mount of Temptation. 

August 7th. — Arose at three-fifteen A. M. Started 
on our return to Jerusalem at four-thirty. Eested the 



96 Ten Months on the Witig. 

horses at the house of the Samaritan an hour, arriving at 
our hotel at ten-thirty P. M. 

Jerusalem is 2,500 feet in altitude; the climate is 
about like Lincoln, New Mexico. We find it pleasant af- 
ter being in Egypt and Jericho — we sleep under cover 
here. 

August 8th. — ^We visited Mosque Haram-esh-Sherif, 
the site of Solomon's Temple. This was originally a ba- 
silica built by Justinian in honor of the Virgin. It is 
said to be the most m.agnificent mosque in the world. To 
enter here it is necessary to notify the consul of the coun- 
try from which you come, and he sends a Kawas. from the 
consulate to accompany visitors; even then it is not en- 
tirely safe. Two years ago two American ladies were 
shot by a fanatic while he was at prayer. Some claim 
that they laughed at the ceremonies, but the Englishman 
with whom they boarded told us there was no provocation 
whatever; he wanted to kill a "Christian dog" in order to 
please his God. One victim was wounded in the eye, the 
other was shot in the leg. Our Kawas wore a Zouave 
jacket, with the American eagle embroidered on the back. 
We were obliged to remove our shoes before entering. 

The mosque, called the Dome of the Eock, stands on 
the summit of Mount Moriah, Avhere Oman had his thresh- 
ing floor; where Abraham offered up Isaac; where David 
interceded for his plague-stricken people; where the Jew- 
ish Temple, the Glory of Israel, stood; where Mary came 
to present the Holy Child; where He stood among the 
doctors, teaching and explaining the things concerning 
Himself. Here was the center of the religious, the poeti- 
cal and the political life of God's chosen people. 

The mosque is surrounded by a wall sixteen hundred 
and one feet long on the west, fifteen hundred and thirtj- 
feet on the east, ten hundred and twenty-four feet on the 
north and nine hundred and twenty-two feet on the south. 
It is entered by seven gates on the west, the principal one 
being the Bab-es-Silsileh, or the Gate of the Chain. Wo 



Ten Months on the Wing. 97 

entered by the main gate and on the right are steps lead- 
ing np_ to the Dome of the Eock. The building has eight 
sides, each sixtj^-eight feet long. The whole is covered 
with richly colored porcelain tiles, bearing inscriptions 
from the Koran. There are four arcades facing the car- 
dinal points of the compass. The rich interior is qnito 
gloomy, and one has to wait until the eyes become accus- 
tomed to the darkness before one can see. The ceiling 
dates from the eleventh century, and was restored by Sahi- 
din. It is richly decorated in mosaics. The dome is 
supported by twelve Corinthian columns of marble, 
which have been defaced by gilding the capitals. The 
thirty-six stained glass windows are of great beauty and 
brilliancy; the arches are covered with colored glass mo- 
saics, over which are inscriptions from the Koran — these 
date from 693 A. D. The dome is ninety-eight feet high 
and seventy-five feet in diameter. The Sacred Eock is 
beneath the Dome. It is an unhewn rock sixty-five feet 
long by forty-five feet v/ide and stands four feet nine 
inches above the pavement. The surface bears the marks 
of bad treatment. In the center is a large hole where 
the blood from the sacrifice poured down to the stone 
channel, then ran down under the temple. 

Descending eleven steps, we entered a cave below the 
Eock. This is shown as the praying-place of Abraham 
and Solomon. Here in one corner is an altar, with beau- 
tiful carvings representing one column in three, in the 
form of a chain whose links are interwoven so as to rep- 
resent three in one. In the center is a well; the Moslems 
believe that this is where the spirits of the departed de- 
scend, and here will take place the reuniting of the spirits 
with the bodies on the day of resurrection. Outside the 
mosque is a shrine, where it is said David and Solomon 
were accustomed to offer up their prayers — now a Moslem 
praying-place. The columns are from the ancient tem- 
ple; the ceiling, decorated in mosaics, contains inscrip- 
tions from the Koran. 

The Mosque of El-Aksa was founded by Emperor 



98 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Justinian, 536 A. D. The interior is rather plain, but 
very spacious, and would hold several thousand people ; 
it has a few handsome windows. A stone slab near the 
entrance marks the tomb of the Sons of Aaron. It also 
marks the burial place of the murderers of Thomas a 
Becket, who came here on a penitential pilgrimage, and 
where they died and were buried. Near the pulpit is the 
praying-place of Moses; near this is a stone bearing a 
footprint of Christ — the Moslems say it is that of Mo- 
hammed. 

To the Well of the Leaf a curious legend attaches. 
A Moslem lost his bucket in the well and went down to 
get it; he found a door which opened into a beautiful 
garden; he wandered around and then returned, bringing 
a leaf with him for a token. The leaf never withered, but 
the door has never been found — it was the door to Para- 
dise. 

From the southern corner of the terrace we descend 
three flights of stairs to the Stables of Solomon. Hej-o 
we are shown a stone trough, said to be the Cradle of 
Christ, but onl}^ the ignorant believe that it is the real 
one. Here are remains of the ancient Temple, the pil- 
lars of the Double Gate and the lintel of the Single Gate, 
beautifully carved; also the arch of an old bridge. 
To the north of the terrace are the remains of the Golden 
Gate; the carving is very tine. 

No one is allowed to photograph the mosque, but a 
Swiss gentleman bribed the guard and made a snap-shot; 
afterwards the guard made a pretense of fulfilling his 
duty by inquiring what the gentleman had in his hand. 
Wlien told he had "chocolates," the guard said. "Oh! All 
right." 

In the afternoon we visited the Judgment Hall of 
Pontius Pilate, now a part of a Catholic convent.- The 
ancient pavement is still in place, and part of the ancient 
arch of Ecce Homo, which abuts on the Via Dolorosa and 
is included in part of the Chapel of the Flaggelation. The 
convent is under the management of the Sisters of Zion. 



Ten M tit lis. on the W ing . 99 

They care for the poor children of all classes, teaching 
them cleanliness and industry. 

A few steps farther on is the prison where Christ was 
confined — now a barracks for Turkish soldiers. Every 
Friday afternoon the devoted Catholics come to pray at 
the different stations on the Via Dolorosa. There was 
quite a crowd of them as we passed. 

ISFot far from here is the Church of St. Anne and the 
Pool of Bethesda. A church is built over the ruined wall 
of the house of the Virgin; a place in the stone is shown 
as her birthplace. In the same court is the pool where 
Jesus cured the sick on the Sabbath day. 

Eeturning by the same way, we passed the Wailing 
Place of the Jews. It was a pathetic sight. The way 
was lined with beggars, and the sight of men and womeii 
weeping and praying was sad in the extreme. They stick 
nails in the rocks, and place on them pieces of paper with 
prayers written and addressed to their Saints in Heaven ; 
and, if relieved from their distress, they believe the Saints 
have been instrumental in giving them relief. 

Going out, we passed the place where St. Stephen 
was stoned to death. 

August 9th. — -We drove out to Bethlehem. Visited 
the Church of the Nativit}'', founded by Constautine 330 
A. D. It contains four rows of marble columns, with 
Corinthian capitals. The crests of the Crusaders are on 
some of the shafts. This is the oldest monument of 
Christian architecture in the world. In this edifice Bald- 
win I was crowned. The roof was renewed by Edward IV 
of England. On one side is a mediaeval font. The mo- 
saics date from 1169 A. D. The chapel, or Grotto of the 
Nativity, is a cave in the rock, over which the church is 
built. The Altar of the Magi marks the place where the 
Wise Men presented their gifts. 

The Chapel of Joseph is where the angel warned 
him to flee into Egypt; here is where St. Jerome lived 



100 Ten Months on the Wing. 

and wrote for thirty 3'ears, and is accepted by the major- 
ity of Bible students as the real birthplace of Christ. 

Bethlehem is first mentioned as the burial-place of 
Eachael, after the birth of Benjamin; and is the scene of 
the story of Euth, Naomi and Boaz. Here Eutli became 
the wife of Boaz and the ancestress of the Kings of Ju- 
dah. Again, this is the place of the anointing of David 
by Samuel, to be King of Israel. (I Sam.; besides being 
mentioned in Jeremiah, Ezra, Nehemiah and Micah. ) 
The men of Bethlehem are said to be the largest and the 
women the handsomest of Palestine — we failed to see the 
"handsome" ones. Those whom we saw were like three- 
fourths of the people we usually see on the streets — dirty, 
ragged, unkempt creatures, always crying for "baksheesh" 
(money.) 

On our way we passed the Grotto of the Shepherds. 
There is a Greek Church, an Armenian Church and a 
Eoman Catholic Church on the site of the Birthplace, all 
quarreling and fighting, so that they have to keep two 
Turkish soldiers on guard all the time to preserve the 
peace. 

In the afternoon we took a donkey ride around the 
city of Jerusalem, stopping at the Well of the Magi, the 
Models of the Temple, Solomon's Quarries and the Tomb 
of the Virgin; here is a Christian church built by Saint 
Helena. Descending fifty steps, we enter a cave in ttio 
rock. On the right is a tomb, said to be that of St. Milli- 
cent, and one on the left is the tomb of St. Anne. The 
Tomb of the Virgin is always decorated with floral offer- 
ings and burning lamps. This tomb is near the Garden 
of Gethsemane and the Chapel of Agony, the latter plactj 
where the disciples slept; also the spot where Judas gave 
the kiss of betrayal. These are close to the entrance to 
the Garden. "\Yhen Jesus spoke these words he went 
over the brook Cedron, where was a garden into which he 
entered, and his disciples with him." The Garden is kept 
by the Franciscans and is planted to beautiful flowers. 

From here we descended a steep path to the Pool 



Ten M onths on the W ing . 101 

of Siloam and Valley of Jehoshapliat, where Christ an- 
nointed the eyes of the blind man and said, "Go and 
wash in the Pool of Siloam." 

We then went down a narrow path between the "Wall 
and the Valley of Hinnom. On the far side to the left 
is the village of Siloam; farther on^ the Tomb of Absa- 
lom, St. James and Zacharias. 

August 10th, Sunday. — Eested all day. J. wont 
with Mr. Auer to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

August 11th. — Went to the house of Caiaphas. It 
now contains the tombs of Armenian patriarchs; accord- 
ing to Greek tradition, the prison of Christ is here. A 
little south of this is the Tomb of David; this has been 
shown since the twelfth century as the City of David on 
Mount Zion. Adjoining the tomb is the Coenaculum, or 
Chamber of the Last Supper. The Christians of the city 
flock here on Mondays and Thursdays to see the Francis- 
cans wash the feet of pilgrims "in His memory.'' 

From here we went to the Garden Tomb ; this ap- 
pears to have been used as a tomb by the Knights of St. 
John. General Gordon thought it the "real burial-place" 
of Christ, and the hill at the back to be the Hill of Skulls 
— this from the resemblance to a skull in the rocky face 
of the cliff. 

August 12th. — Left Jerusalem at six-thirty A. M. 
for Nablus. The road leads through the mountains, which 
at this season are entirely devoid of verdure, excepting 
where there are olive groves.* We passed Shafat, or Nob, 
the place to which David fled from Saul (Samuel xxi. 1) ; 
then Tell-El-Ful (the Hill of Beans), El Eam or Eamah. 
They drive three horses abreast here. The tv/o leaders 



(*Note: The roots of the olive never die; often a tree 
will burst asunder from old age, and form as many as 
fifteen separate trees. 



102 Ten Months on the Wing. 

have sleigh bells on their harness ; the third is usually dec- 
orated with several strands of bright beads. Most of the 
drivers are very cruel, but we are fortunate in that re- 
spect; ours is very kind to his animals. Nablus is situ- 
ated between Mount Bbal and Mount Gerizim. 

Gerizim^ or the Mount of Blessing, is reached by a 
steep ascent. We had not time to go up, but travelers are 
urged not to miss the opportunity to do so. It is here 
the Samaritans have their encampment, during the Feast 
of the Passover. The ancient rites are still observed at 
this time. On the tenth of the month the sacrificial lambs 
are brought up the mountain. They must be a year old, 
males and 'Vithout blemish." During the following davo 
they are well kept — washed and purified. Early on the 
morning of the fou.rteenth of the month the whole com- 
munity close their dwellings and climb up the mountain, 
pitch their tents and prepare to celebrate the most charac- 
teristic of their national solemnities. About the middle 
of the forenoon the officials proceed to kindle the sacrifi- 
cial fire ; for this purpose a pit is sunk into the earth and 
built around with stones. AVhen this is accomplished, the 
Yacub, or priest, offers a prayer. Another fire is then 
kindled in a kind of sunken trough, close by the platform 
where the service is to be performed. Over this two cal- 
drons of water are placed and a short prayer is said. A 
carpet is laid near the caldrons and the priest reads the 
service, assisted by the elders. Young men, dressed in 
robes of unbleached cotton, then bring in the lambs. At 
mid-day the paschal sacrifice is. introduced, according to 
the Scriptures. In an instant one lamb is thrown on its 
back by one of the 3^oung men; another, vath flashing 
knife, does the murderous work instantly. After all the 
lambs are slain, the young men dip their fingers in the 
blood and mark a spot on the forehead and noses of the 
women and children, but not the men. 

Hotel Nablus. — Nablus is an ancient City of Eef- 
uge. It lies in a rich valley, six miles long and one mile 



Ten Months on the Wing. 103 

wide. It is mostly planted in figs and olives, with some 
pomegranates. Mount Glierizim is on the left and Mount 
Ebal on the right. The city has a population of 25,000. 
In the center of the city — the most densely populated dis- 
trict — the streets are arched over and the houses built on 
top of the arches. The streets are narrow, dark and fil- 
thy. One cannot pass through the motley throng with- 
out getting his clothes soiled. This city is the headquar- 
ters of the Samaritans, a peculiar sect who still adhere 
to the teachings of the Pentateuch. They claim to be de- 
scendants of Aaron and have in their church an ancient 
copy of the Pentateuch, three thousand five hundred years 
old, written by the son and grandson of Aaron. Tin; 
church is the only Samaritan place of worship in the 
country. They never mix or intermarry with outsiders. 
It will be remembered that the woman of Samaria asked 
Christ why he should ask her, a Samaritan womana, for a 
drink, he being a Jew. 

There is a Greek church Just outside of Nablus, over 
the well called Jacob's Well, said to be the identical one 
where the story occurred; we drank from it, and found it 
the best water we have had since leaving Switzerland. 

August 13th. — We left Nablus at six-thirty A. M. 
Drove to Nazareth, fifty long miles through dust and 
heat. There is a government road most of the way, but 
it is only an excuse for a road, and very rough and rocky. 
We ate our lunch under a fig tree by the wayside, then 
drove on into Jena to water the horses and rest a while. 
From here the road runs through a rich valley; on the 
right rises the mountains of Gilboa, where Saul is said 
to have fallen on his own sword; farther on is Mt. Tabor; 
on the left is the Mount of Precipitation, where the Naza- 
renes wished to kill Christ by hurling him from aloft. An 
hour before we reach Nazareth we ascend the mountain 
by a zig-zag road leading to the town. 

Our driver has been kind to the horses and they are 
still quite fresh, although coming so far. He is the only 



104 Ten Months on the Wing. 

handsome Arab we have seen. Our dragoman says the 
Bedouin treats his wife as cruelly as he does his horse. 
This must be cruel, indeed, judging from the sore backs 
of his donkeys and horses ! 

Nazareth is a city of between seven and ten thousand 
population. It is a shade cleaner than Jerusalem or jSTa- 
blus, though the same system of open sewers down the 
middle of the street obtains here, also. The people are 
better clad and the place has a more modern appearance. 

On our way we met an Englishman who has lived in 
Jerusalem twenty-two years. He says that begging is 
considered a very profitable business in Palestine. The 
beggar's excuse is that he is conferring a favor on the on.3 
who gives, as "it is more blessed to give than to receive" 
— as the Good Book teaches. He instanced several cases 
that came under his notice, where men who own land in 
the country come to the city during the tourists' season 
especially to beg. They select a location near some his- 
torical place and lie on the ground, pretending to be crip- 
pled or paralyzed. When the season is over they retire 
to their farms with sufficient to carry them over until 
next season. One man rents three houses and has plenty 
to live in comfort, and still adds to his income by beg- 
ging. 

August 14tii. — We have visited the Church of the 
Anunciation, where the angel appeared to Mary; here is 
the carpenter shop of Joseph, the synagogue where Christ 
taught the Jews, and the Spring where Mary went for 
water. 

We are now ready to proceed to Tiberias. 

August 15th. — Hotel Tiberias. — Left Nazareth at 
two-thirty P. M. on the 14th. The road ascends the moun- 
tain for some miles, and then traverses a rich plain ; to 
our left we passed the mountain where Jonah is supposed 
to be buried; some miles farther on, the town of Cana of 
Gralilee, where we stopped to water our horses and drink 



T e n M o n tits o n the W i n g . lOo 

from the spring whose waters Christ turned into wine at 
the marriage feast. (John ii. 1.) 

After passing two or three more villages, the "metal- 
led road," as they call a rocky strip, ceases, and the re- 
mainder of the route to Tiberias is a track in the plain. 

After proceeding some miles we pass on our left a 
curiously shaped volcanic hill, called Horns of Hattin, 
from its two horns or peaks. In the time of the Crusad- 
ers a fierce battle was fought on its summit; here they 
were defeated by Saladin, July 3, 1187. The Latins be- 
lieve it to be the Mount of Beatitude. Not far froni'-here 
we ascended a high ridge from where there is a splendid 
view of the Sea of Galilee. 

By six o'clock v/e are in Tiberias. The situation of 
the town is very attractive, and with a little labor and 
some capital could be made a charming health resort, as 
there are fine hot springs just outside the town having a 
temperature of 135 degrees and containing sulphur and 
other medicinal properties. 

The lake is six hundred and eighty feet below the 
Mediterranean; is twelve and one-fourth miles in 
and six and one-half miles in breadth; the water is 
good for household purposes. There is good fishing 
and boating, but it is safer to do the boating in 
the forenoon, as in the afternoon the wind rises and the 
waters become so boisterous that it often capsizes small 
boats, or if not so serious an accident, one is liable to get 
a drenching with the waves. The Biblical allusions to the 
sea, or lake, are numerous, but to most people the refer- 
ences made to it in the New Testament are peculiarly in- 
teresting. Capernaum, on its north shore, was the home of 
Christ after he was driven out of Nazareth. Here he called 
Peter, James and John, the three most intimate of his dis- 
ciples; here he performed the miracle of the loaves and 
fishes ; here Peter walked on the water through his faith 
in The Master ; here Christ chided the tempest and bade 
the waters rest. All through Matthew, Luke and John 
we read of His life on the shores of Galilee. It was then 



106 Ten Months on the Wing. 

called the Sea of Genneseret. "It is indeed a consecrated 
lake, hallowed by His Divine performances." 

Earthquakes are not infrequent in these parts; in 
1909 there was a disturbance near Nazareth in which al- 
most an hundred people lost their lives or were wounded. 

We arose at four this morning, and at six-thirty went 
for a ride on the lake with four oarsmen. We were out 
about three and a half hours; passed near Magdala, the 
home of Mary Magdalene, nov/ a Jewish colony, and went 
within sight of Capernaum, but it was so hot on the water 
we thought it wiser to return. 

To the east of the lake Mount Hermon rises ten thous- 
and feet, dominating the whole of Galilee. Back of Mag- 
dala rises the cliff of Kal'at-Iben Ma'an. The cavern be- 
neath was once the stronghold of robbers, dispossessed of 
their hiding place by Herod the Great. He let baskets of 
soldiers down over the cliff's, the only way in which the 
robbers could be reached. (Joseplms mentions the occur- 
rence.) Near the chain of hills east of the lake lies Kal'- 
at-el-Husn, where Josephus was wounded in the battle 
when Vespasian took the town, then knoAvn as Gamala 
(69 A. D.) Chorazin is also on the north side of the 
lake. Traces have been discovered of a paved road that 
led from here to Damascus. The dragoman pointed out 
a place across the lake where the swine ran down into the 
sea. 

August 16th. — At seven-thirty A. M. we left Ti- 
berias to cross the lake in a small steamer. It is half an 



(Note: There were some twenty soldiers in a third- 
class carriage, guarded by two officers, all being hand- 
cuffed ; they were conscripts being taken against their will 
to war. Just as we neared a tunnel in a rocky mountain, 
three of them jumped through a window and escaped. 
There was no little commotion when the guards discov- 
ered their escape, but it was too late — they will join the 
Druses, and will never be caught. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 107 

hour's journey to Es-Semakh^ which is six hundred and 
ninety-nine feet below sea level. Here we took the train 
to Damascus. The railroad ascends to the plateau be- 
tween volcanic mountains, giving one an opportunity of 
studying the remarkable geological formations through 
which the stream, called the Wady Keleyt, has worn its 
way; huge masses of limestone and basalt, cut through 
perpendicularly and overflown with thick layers of lava, 
can be seen. This has been, and is still, a volcanic region. 
The stream is bordered with shrubs, among them the ole- 
ander, with its fragrant pink flowers, which lend a brighc- 
ness to an otherwise dreary landscape. The railway winds 
around the gorge, doubling back and forth, passing 
through several tunnels. 

Just before emerging onto the plateau we pass the 
fine cascade of ^NTahr El Badjeh; it tumbles down as much 
as a hundred feet from the plateau above. And a little 
farther on there is another waterfall almost as fine. 

On reaching the tableland of Bashan we soon come 
to Tell-esh-Shinab.* In 1901 an ancient stela was found 
here, inscribed to Seti I; and another such monument io 
Eameses II is shown at Sheikh Sad. At Dera'a there is a 
buffet, where lunch is served. 

An hour before reaching Damascus we begin to see 
green trees and fields, and soon the city bursts upon the 
sight. After the desolation of the country through which 
we have passed, it is really a refreshing view. Damascus 
has a population of almost forty thousand, has excellent 
tramways and is quite well lighted. We feel a sense of 
relief in getting out of Palestine. Damascus has a splen- 
did water system; the river Abana flows just under our 
window at the hotel. Grand Victoria. The river has a 
promenade on either side. 



(*Note: Some half mile from here there is a subter- 
ranean city, but travelers are not allowed to visit 
it. The entrance is through a very low door, 
hidden by a building.) 



108 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Tonight the table was laden with delicious fruit : 
three varieties of peaches, two of grapes, two of apples 
and two of pears. This profusion of fruit reminds ono 
of California, U. S. A. However, it appears to be un- 
grafted, or from seedlings. 

There is a fine view of Mount Hermon from the hotel 
gallery. 

August 17th, Sunday. — Eested all day. 

August 18th. — We drove through part of the city, 
visiting the factory where they make inlaid work in wood 
and brass— one of the most interesting exhibits we have 
ever seen. Our American sloyd schools pale into insig- 
nificance in comparison. It is astonishing to see small 
boys and girls from the ages of four and five years up to 
mature men and women, all busily engaged in engraving, 
carving and inlaying the handsome wood and brass arti- 
cles, especially the children, mere babies, doing the most 
intricate designs; some designing their own patterns as 
they proceed with the work. One small girl was execut- 
ing a design on wood without drawing or tracing of any 
kind, and the work was quite accurate. 

I^ext door to the shop is the residence of the propri- 
etor. The interior has a patio, like houses in Old Mexico, 
with beautiful flowers and creepers ; in the center is a 
fountain. The drawing-room is fitted up in true Oriental 
style, the furniture all inlaid in mother-of-pearl, cande- 
labra of brass, inlaid in gold and silver, draperies in rich 
Persian stripes, while Persian rugs cover the floor. 

We went to the house of Ananias and the house where 
St. Paul escaped from the window, being let dov/n in a 
basket. It was on the old Eoman road leading from Da- 
mascus that he beheld the wondrous vision and heard the 
viiee sa^dng, "Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me?" 
(Acts ix. 3-8.) 

Then to the tomb of St. George. We then drove down 
the "Street called straight." It is not actually straight, 



Ten Months on the Wing. 109 

but all along its course traces have been found of the 
colonnade with which it was formerly adorned, for Da- 
mascus is one of the most ancient cities of the world. 
(Some claim the most ancient.) Josephus makes it older 
than Abraham, Other cities have arisen and decayed, bat 
Damascus has always remained an important city Next 
to Bagdad, it is the most Oriental of cities. It is men- 
tioned numerous times in the Scripture. It was conquer- 
ed by Tothmes III, 1600 B. C; occupied by Pompey 64 B. 
C. Its fame was mingled with that of Saladin and Ta- 
merlane. Its Bazaars are celebrated all over the world. 
The traveler finds it more difficult to know what not to 
buy than what to buy. Some think the Bazaars more 
imposing than those of Cairo, but we did not find ther.i 
any more interesting. 

Damascus is not so well built, nor are the streets in 
any way equal to those of Cairo. Very few of them are 
paved, and they are rougher than a country road at home. 
The street vendors of water (carried in pig-skins), ven- 
dors of lemonade and of raisin water, also licorice water, 
rattle a pair of brass cups and cry, "Oh ! cheer thine 
heart" or "God send trade'' — an amusing, but very dis- 
turbing noise v/lien one wishes to sleep. In all this, we 
are reminded of Cairo. 

In the afternoon we drove around through the Sad- 
dlers' Bazaar. Here one may buy anything in the way of 
accoutrements for horse, donkey or camel. 

Then we went up on the hill to get a comprehensive 
view of Damascus. The surrounding country is as ricli 
in verdure as Southern California. If only some enter- 
prising people were in control, it would soon be a second 
Los Angeles, 

August 19th. — Went to the Mosque of St. John the 
Baptist; to the ancient Church of the Crusaders; to the 
Tomb of Saladin; to the Silversmith's Bazaar and the 
Eufif Bazaar, 



110 Ten M ontlis on the W ing . 

Tonight at dinner we had ten varieties of fruit — and 
then watermelon ! 

August 20th. — The train that carried ns to Ba'al- 
bek left Damascus at seven-thirty A. M. The first few 
miles the road lies through a narrow wady, or valley, be- 
tween barren hills of most peculiar formation, in the cliffs 
of which are numerous tombs. Then we pass into a glen 
of fresh green trees and clear running water. Every va- 
riety of fruit tree is seen growing in luxuriant profusion, 
the walnut predominating. 

After passing the village of Fijeh we arrive at the 
spring which is the principal source of the Abana river. 
The stream rushes full-grown from a cave, and after 
splashing over the rocks some eighty yards, it joins the 
Bai'ada and the two make one river, called by the Arabs 
the Barada. 

Proceeding on our journey, we pass over ledges of 
rocks and steep embankments, first on one side of the 
river, then on the other, until we reach Suk Wady-Barada, 
the ancient Abila referred to in Luke's gospel (iii. 1.) 
There is a Latin inscription on some of the stones to the 
effect that the road was restored by one Julius A'^erus, 
Legate of the Province of Syria, by orders of Marcus Are- 
lius Antonius, dated 161 A. D. Perched on the top of 
a high hill is the so-called Tomb of Abel. 

The road now runs through a glen until we reach the 
plains of Zebdani; this plain is well cultivated; silk cul- 
ture is quite extensive and there are many orchards of 
white mulberry. On our left are the snow-capped moun- 
tains of Lebanon and on the right the mountains of Anti- 
Lebanon. We stopped for lunch at Eeyek and changed 
cars for Ba'albek — Just one hour's ride from the lunch 
station. 

_ After an hour's rest, we drove over to the great ruins. 
If there were nothing else, one would be justified in cross- 
ing the Atlantic just to see Ba'albek. We thought that 
we had seen all the wonderful ruins, but there is nothino; 



Ten Months on the Wing. Ill 

in Eome or Greece that compares with this temple for 
magnitude and grace combined. It is a combination of 
the stupendous and the delicate; no pen or picture is ade- 
quate to describe it, and no tongue eloquent enough to 
convey to the mind any conception of its magnificence ; 
it must be seen to be appreciated. 

Three temples rose on the Acropolis — a Circular 
Temple, the Main or Grand Temple of Jupiter and a hand- 
some Temple of Bacchus. There was a grand stairway 
which led up to the Propaelae, or main entrance, one 
hundred and fifty feet wide. The facade of the Propae- 
lae was adorned with a splendid peristyle of twelve Cor- 
inthian columns. This led into a vast hexagonal court, 
surrounded by niches and columns. On either side were 
alternating exedrae in rectangular and circular forms, 
with niches for statues. From this court another grand 
stairway led to the sacrificial altar, while still another of 
equal grandeur led to the Holy of Holies, or real Temple 
of Jupiter. This is surrounded by fifty-four columns, 
seven feet in diameter, each seventy feet high without 
the capital and base, and each cut from one piece of 
stone. Above these stupendous columns was a frieze dec- 
orated with lions' heads, roses, acanthus leaves and other 
designs. The frieze is about six feet wide. On either 
end was an architrave of delicate workmanship. Six of 
these mighty columns still occupy one side of the ruins — 
silent witnesses of the vaulting ambition and heroic la- 
bors of past generations, in whose presence the labors of 
today appear puny and worthless. It humbles us to real- 
ize that with all our learning and science, the people of 
today are incapable of attaining to such perfection in 
architecture. The peculiar characteristics of this architec- 
ture are the combination of the immense and the grace- 
ful, of Cyclopean vastness with refined elegance; nowhere 
is the acanthus and rose work carved with more delicacy 
than on these gigantic blocks. The court is seventy feet 
long by eighty-five feet wide. The Temple of Jupiter is 
elevated twenty-four feet above the Grand Court, which 



112 Ten Months on the Wing. 

is one hundred and fifty feet long by one hundred and 
twenty-five feet wide. Above the niches in the exedrae 
are shell domes and other remarkably ornate decorations. 
Here were placed the statues of the different gods; for 
some worshiped one god and some another, and the de- 
sire was to please all. On the left is the Tem^ple of 
Bacchus, which stands on a lower level and is still well 
preserved; it was surrounded, except on the east, by a 
magnificent colonnade, with arched roof; nineteen out of 
the forty-six columns which formerly adorned it still re- 
main, each sixty-five feet high and six feet three inches 
in diameter. The part of the roof intact is handsomely 
carved in geometrical designs; in the center is a god, and 
around this are four demi-gods. One of the columns has 
fallen against the cella, in which position it has remained 
for more than a century. The portal of the temple is 
probably the most interesting feature of the v/hole struc- 
ture. The door posts are monoliths, ornamented in rich 
designs of foliage and genii, as delicate as filigree. The 
lintel is of three stones; on the lower side is an eagle. 
Beside the portal, there is a spiral staircase, by means of 
which a journey may be made to the upper walls. All 
the masonry of the outer wall is prodigious in its dimen- 
sions; but the marvel of marvels is the western wall, 
where are three stones, perhaps the largest ever used in 
architecture. One stone measures sixty-four feet in 
length, another sixty-three feet eight inches and the third 
sixty-three feet. They are each thirteen feet high and 
thirteen feet wide, and are placed in the wall twenty feet 
above ground. How they were raised is a problem which 
science of today explains by the unlimited labor at com- 
mand and by the Eoman mechanical arrangement for 
distributing weight among a number of carriers; but how 
were they transported from the quarry There is still 
another partly-cut stone in the quarr}^, seventy-four feet 
long and thirteen by thirteen feet, left just as it was cen- 
turies ago. 

The view from the top comprehends the whole val- 



Ten Months on the W ing . 1 13 

ley, with Mt. Lebanon on the right and Anti-Lebanon on 
the left. 

The Temple was first destroyed by the Arabs, and 
later a Christian Basilica was built in the center; this 
was again destroyed by the Moslems. All aronnd are 
heaps of broken columns and debris. Ba'albek is a town 
of 5,000 ; has a good water supply. The surrounding 
country grows some fruit, especially grapes. 

August 21st. — From Ba'albek we retrace oxw jour- 
ney to Eeyek, and there change ears for Beyrout. The 
railway crosses a valley Avhich is mostly planted to white 
mulberries, as silk is the most important industry from 
here to Beyrout. After some miles we begin to climb a 
steep ascent where it is necessary to have a cog rail in 
the center of the track; the climb is slow and tedious, 
but after reaching the summit, the view is quite fine and 
picturesque all the remainder of the way. The moun- 
tains are dotted, from base to crown, with villages where 
the people of Beyrout and surrounding environs have; 
summer homes and summer resorts. The railway is a 
switch-back; sometimes the locomotive was on one end, 
and sometimes on the other. 

We arrived at Beyrout and are stopping at Grand 
Hotel D'Orient. We find it warm and humid here. 

August 22nd. — Have been for a drive around the 
city, and to call on the family of our dragoman. There 
are some handsome homes on the higher elevations, but 
the streets are narrow and full of "chug holes" that make 
driving anything but enjoyable. Hov/ever, we find Syria 
a degree cleaner than Palestine. The people are better 
clothed, the towns not quite so filthy, and there are not 
so many beggars annoying one for "baksheesh." 

This afternoon we drove out to Dog Eiver, about 
eight miles from town. The monuments here date back 
to 1300 and 607 B. C. On the road, a place is pointed 
out as the spot v/here St. George killed the Dragon. (He 



114 Ten Months on the Wing. 

must have killed two of them.) Nahr-ei-Kelb; or Dog 
Eiver, is named from a tradition that when a foe appear- 
ed a dog, hewn in the rock, gave^ the alarm by barking. 
The rock was thrown into the sea, but is still pointed out 
as "the Dog." 

The great interest of the spot, however, is the sculp- 
ture on the face of the rock cliff. Before reaching them, 
an inscription states that the rocky pass was cut by or- 
ders of Emperor Marcus Aurelius Antonius, here desig- 
nated Germanicus. The date fixed for the construction 
of the road is 176 and 180 A. D. The sculptures are nine 
in number, three Egyptian and six Assyrian. One of the 
former is dedicated to Phthah, the god of Memphis; an- 
other to Ea, the Sun god; the third records certain expe- 
ditions of Eameses II. The Assyrian sculptures are much 
defaced, but bear the names of Assur, Eisisi (1150 B. C), 
Tiglath Pileser, Shalmaneser and Sennacherib (703 B. 
G.) On the last is a low relief of Bsarhaddon, with em- 
blems of the planets beside the head and forty-nine lines 
of cuneiform writing across the body. A broken text of 
TsTebuchadnezzar was also found nearby. 

Dog Eiver furnishes the water supply of Bey rout. 
We stopped to get something to drink at a native house, 
and our hostess cracked nuts for me with her teeth! How- 
ever, she was ver}^ hospitable and kind. 

August 23kd. — Spent the day preparing for our 
ocean voyage back to Port Said. 

August 24th, Sunday. — On steamer Tewfekieh. "VVe 
sailed from Beyrout at ten-fifteen A. M, A calm day and 
a smooth sea, we passed Sidon and Tyre and stopped at 
Haifa about five P. M. ; took on and delivered cargo ; 
were there until ten P. M. 

August 25th. — Still calm and warm; reached Jafl'a 
at seven A. M. and stayed until five P. M. Here Kalil, 



Ten Months, on the Wing. 115 

our dragoman, left us. We regret losing him, as we had 
grown attached to him in a measure. 

There was an exciting time when we sailed; the 
ship had gone about two miles from shore ; the officers 
were collecting the tickets in the steerage. When they 
asked one young man for his ticket, he suddenly became 
insane, and tearing off his clothing, plunged overboard ; 
the alarm was sounded and a boat that was nearing shore 
turned back and attempted to take him in, but he fought 
them off; finally he was overcome and dragged in, only 
to plunge over again; a second struggle ensued and he 
was captured and brought back, with a wound in his leg; 
it was with great difficulty that he was finally restrained 
from Jumping out of the boat the third time. He ke])t 
crying that he wanted to return to Jaffa, and only ceased 
struggling when his clothes were thrown into the boat 
and he was permitted to return. His face showed him 
to be temporarily insane. 

August 26th. — Arrived at Port Said at seven A. M., 
but on account of quarantine regulations, were not per- 
mitted to land until ten o'clock. 

Spent the day at the Eastern Exchange Hotel. 

August 27th. — We have been passing through the 
Suez Canal all day. The boats are required to proceed 
very slowly, as the water is shallow in places and, too, the 
waves cut the embankment if the ships go too fast — it 
will take all night to get through. 

August 28th. — Got into the Eed Sea about nine 
A. M. 

August 29th. — I feel quite ill; had a temperature 
of 104 for thirty-six hours, but think I shall soon be all 
right. Got a germ in Palestine, I suppose. 

August 30th. — Still in bed. 



116 Ten Months on the Wing. 

August 31st. — We passed out of the Eed Sea this 
morning; stopped at Aden four hours. 

Septembee 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. — Just loafed, 
trying to regain my strength. 

Septembee 5th.— Arrived at Bombay at six A. M. 
Disembarked about eight o'clock, and are at Hotel Taj 
Mahal — a fine hotel, and very cool. 

Septembee 6th. — Drove to the Tower of Silence, a 
Parsee temple of" the dead. Formerly people were allow- 
ed to see the buzzards devouring the bodies, but now they 
are only seen from a distance. There are several towers, 
some belonging to private families, and one especially 
built for suicides. The tower is a circular building, con- 
taining three rows of slats (also circular in construction), 
one row for men, one for women and one for children. 
These slats have grooves made in them, to carry off the 
liquid. The bodies are laid on top of these slats and 
left for the buzzards to devour all the flesh; this takes 
about two hours. Every few days men go in and rake 
off the bones into a pit, where they remain until decom- 
posed. During the monsoon season, the water carries 
the bone dust off through trenches and pits filled witii 
charcoal, and it is thus filtered before being absorbed by 
the earth. Hundreds of buzzards sit around waiting for 
their gruesome food, which is brought in from three to 
as high as six times a day, and much more often when 
there is a famine or a plague. The grounds are very beau- 
tiful, containing every kind of tree and flower adapted 
to the tropics. 

Bombay is a handsome city, well laid out and well- 
kept. There are some fine public buildings and love\y 
residences; broad boulevards bordered by splendid trees; 
numerous banyans and mangoes. There are lovely gar- 
dens and parks. The rich coloring of the foliage and the 
many beautiful flowering shrubs and plants make a gor- 



Ten M ontlis on the W ing . 117 

geous picture. Every known variety of coleus grows here 
in luxuriant profusion, the roads and streets being hedg- 
ed with them. Flowering vines ranging in colors of yel- 
low, red, pink, blue and white, cover the trunks of trees 
and buildings in riotous profusion. 

We are not suffering from the heat as we anticipated. 
The monsoon blows every day, and the rain pours down 
in heavy sheets for a short time; then the sun comes out. 

September 7th. — Hunted up Thomas Cook & Sons 
in the forenoon. Had letters from home; how good they 
seem, and how they bring distant friends quite near! 

September 9th. — We went to the Caves of Ele- 
phanta, six miles from Bombay, by boat. We passed 
numerous islands in the harbor. Landed on one of these 
islands and walked something over a mile by a path 
through tropical forests. My ! but it was hot ! There 
are five caves in all, carved out of solid rock. These were 
hewn by Hindus as a temple to their gods. From the 
front entrance to the rear is one hundred and thirty feet, 
and about the same in width. The chief of the mural fig- 
ures is the immense three-faced god, nineteen feet high. 
It represents Shiva, who is the principal figure in all the 
groups of the caves. The front face is Brahma, the Cre- 
ator; the face on the left is Shiva, in the character of 
Rudra, the Destroyer; the face on the right is Vishnu, 
the Preserver, holding a lotus flower in his hand. Be- 
sides these are Elephanta and the Monkey gods. Therci 
are a dozen or more of these groups. The roof is support- 
ed by great pillars carved out of the rock. 

The Portuguese thought to do away with idolatry 
by destroying the gods, and turned their cannon on them, 
breaking many of the figures. 

Just as the boat reached the pier on our return m^o 
met a procession carrying hundreds of images of Vishnu, 
the Elephant God, made of clay and highly colored, whicli 
they were taking out to sink in the waters of the harbor. 



118 Ten Months on the Wing. 

this being the feast-time of that particular god. It will 
last three days, and each day more images will be given 
to the Water God. They made a most distracting noise 
with drums, horns, tambourines and fifes. As we entered 
the city they were dancing. The dance is quite similar to 
the Indian Fire Dance at home, the j)erformers scream- 
ing and jumping and clapping their hands. 

The story of the god, Elephanta, is that his father 
went away and left his wife and young son. He remained 
away until the boy was grown to manhood. One day the 
father returned; the young man was standing guard while 
his mother took her bath ; the father seeing him there, and 
not recognizing him as his son, thought him intruding on 
the privacy of his wife, and cut his head off. The mother 
rushed out and told her husband that he had slain their 
beautiful son; whereat he was greatly distressed and rail 
into the forest to get a head to replace the one he had 
cut off. The first thing he saw was an elephant; he cut 
off its head and placed it on the body of his son, where 
it grew. Thus the son was forced ever after to wear an 
elephant head. All the images had these heads. The ob- 
ject of the story is to teach filial devotion, and for this 
reason Elephanta is one of the most popular of the num- 
erous gods. 

We have engaged a "traveling boy" to take us through 
India. No one attempts to travel without a servant here. 
He looks out for your bedding, sees to paying tips to the 
luggage coolies, attends to buying drinks (for one is not 
safe in drinking the water here, any more than in in Pal- 
estine) ; in fact, we have had to buy drinking water ever 
since leaving Eome — all through Greece, Egypt and tlie 
Holy Land, and it is a very expensive part of one's re- 
quirements. In fact, the "boy" is your body servant and 
general factotum. Cook's recommended this particular 
man to us, and he appears to be trustworthy and humble. 
His name is Hafiz Abdul Eahman, a Mohammedan. He 
wears white cotton trousers, a long white coat cut some- 
thing like a Prince Albert, a turban of white and blue 



Ten Months on the Wing. 1 19 

cotton twisted in heavy rolls around his head. He calls 
us the Master and Mistress. In addressing us he says, 
"Will your honor do so and so ;" He comes in and takes 
off our shoes, polishes them, and puts them on again; 
fixes our bath, et cetera. 

September 11th. — Left Bombay at nine-thirty P. 
M. Traveled all night. We have to furnish our own 
bedding on the train; otherwise they are very convenient. 
We changed cars at eight-thirty A. M. and took a nar- 
row-gauge, reaching Abu Eoad Station about two-fifteen 
P. M. Here we took a tonga and drove eighteen miles 
up the mountain to Mt. Abu. A tonga is a two-wheeled 
cart with two seats, one facing the horses, the other fac- 
ing backwards. The driver and Hafiz sat on the front 
seat and J. and I occupied the back seat. As there are no 
springs, and the sun poured its fiery rays down on o^ur 
poor feet, we did not enjoy the long ride as much as we 
should in a "Velie" auto. The covering of the tonga is 
usually a piece of matting, or tarpaulin, hung over a 
frame; it keeps out the sun and air alike. 

All along the railway we saw bands of monkeys. In 
one place there were eighteen or twenty in one field. We 
passed them on the way up the mountain also; they 
are not afraid of people, but sit and look at one with 
comical curiosity. We saw some very large birds, resem- 
bling cranes, with red heads. The topography of the 
country through which we passed before reaching the foot 
of the mountains was a rather level valley land, dotted 
with trees, and some cultivated land. It had the appear- 
ance of being very fertile. We saw many handsome coun- 
try homes. 

The road is one of the most scenic we have ever 
traveled, winding round and round the mountain; over- 
hung by trees. The upper side of the road is banked with 
ferns; on the lower is a steep precipice and a deep 
gorge overgrown with a tangled mass of tropical verdure. 
Mountains rise on every side, covered to the summit With 



120 Ten Months on the Wing. 

fine forests; clear rivulets of water pour down over fan- 
tastically shaped rocks, reminding one of the Garden of 
the Gods in Colorado. 

We arrived at Hotel Eajputana at five o'clock. With- 
out stopping to rest, took two jinrikishas and with two 
men to pull and one to j)ush each, we rode about one and 
a half miles to the beautiful Jain Temple of Dalwarra, 
nine hundred years old. This is built of pure white mar- 
ble, carved like lace in all manner of flowers, gods and 
animals. Some two hundred years were consumed in its 
building. At this day no one can be found to repair the 
carving. With few exceptions it is in an excellent state 
of preservation. There are a hundred or more gods the 
size of a grown man — these have glass eyes. There are 
numerous elephants and one horse, on which is seated a 
god. But it is the columns^ arches and ceilings that are 
such marvels of sculpture. Delwarra is one of the finest 
temples of India. 

Abu is picturesquely situated high up amidst the 
mountain peaks and surrounded by great boulders as 
large themselves as small mountains. These have been 
carved out by the waters in ages past into grotesque forms. 

September 12th. — It is so cold we had to sleep un- 
der two blankets last night. 

Left Abu at ten A. M. Drove down in the tonga to 
Abu Station, arriving at twelve o'clock. Left by train at 
one-thirty-eight P. ML The road passes through a valley 
with high mountains on either side until near sundown, 
when the valley broadens out and the road runs througli 
a broad, level plain until we reach Jaipur. 

September 13th, — Arrivel at Hotel Jaipur at ten 
o'clock. After a late breakfast we drove to the Albert 
Memorial Museum and the Zoological Gardens. The mu- 
seum contains much that is interesting in the way of In- 
dian applied arts — brass, gold and silver articles, porcelain 
ware, ivory and tortoise-shell ornaments. The tigers and 



Ten Months on the ^Y ing . 121 

monkeys in the zoo are fine specimens. This being their 
native heath, they are healthy. 

We then drove to the Walled City and visited the 
factory, where we saw small hoys from the ages of nine 
to fourteen weaving the most beautiful carpets (such as 
we call Axminster and velvet brussels), while a man at 
the back of the rug called out the color design. We shall 
always appreciate our rugs more after this. The mana- 
ger .said that the children worked only half a day. They 
also manufacture choice articles in brass, gold and silver. 

The Citadel is surrounded by a high crenelated wall, 
entered by seven gates. It is called the "pink city," from, 
the fact that every building and the whole wall is painted 
rose-color, picked out in white. The city is well laid out 
and clean. 

From here v/e went to the Observatory. This is the 
most unique astronomical instrument in the world, de- 
signed by the celebrated royal astronomer, Maharaja Jai 
Singh. It is in an open court yard, full of fantastic in- 
struments built by him. The instrument was construct- 
ed between 1718 and 1734 A. D. It indiciates the exact 
position of the heavenly bodies at every hour and minute 
of the day, and also shows the exact time. It contains 
the twelve signs of the zodiac. A curious and wonderful 
invention ! 

The Palace of the Wind, built by Madhe Singh I, is 
a fantastic and elaborate building decorated with stucco, 
overlooking the main thoroughfare. It is nearly all win- 
dows. The Maharaja constructed it in order that his 
wife might watch the procession of the great feast Avhieli 
occurs once a year. Women are not allowed to appear in 
public or show their faces outside their homes. In ac- 
cordance with this rule, many of the houses are built with 
latticed windows, so that the women may observe without 
being observed themselves. 

Jaipur is chiefly a Hindu city. They worship Brah- 
ma, the Creator, and Shiva, the Destroyer. The dead are 



122 Ten Months on the Wing. 

cremated; if possible, they are carried to Benares before 
death, in order to be near the Holy Eiver, or Ganges. 

Sarisvati, the wife of Brahma, rides on a peacock 
throne and carries a musical instrument; she is the god- 
dess of music, speech, the arts and literature. The sin 
of lying is readily expiated by an offering to her. 

The wife of Vishnu is Lakshmi — she rides a snake. 
Shesh represents Eternity; he is said to have come down 
to earth nine times. These reincarnations were as a fish, 
a tortoise, a boar, a man-lion, a dwarf, Buddha, and so on. 
Shiva is also called Mahadeva; his wife has several dif- 
ferent names. 

After tiffin, we drove to the palace of the present 
Maharaja. The grounds cover seventy-one acres and are 
half a mile long, the whole being surrounded by a higli 
wall. The Chandra Mahal, which forms the center of the 
great palace, is a lofty building of seven stories overlook- 
ing the lovely garden. On the ground floor is the Diwan- 
i-Kaas, or private audience chamber— remarkable even in 
India for its noble simplicity. To the left are the apart- 
ments of the Maharaja. The grounds are adorned with 
numerous fountains, fine trees and flowers and a pretty 
fernery. Here, by turning certain valves, the water pour^ 
down like a spring shower over the plants. In an adjoin- 
ing garden is the large tank where are kept the sacred 
crocodiles. They were fed for our benefit. Two of the 
hideous monsters got into a fight and in their fury lash- 
ed the water into foam. A fortnight since, a coolie was 
washing his feet in the tank, when one of the crocodiles 
slipped up and grabbed him, pulling him into the water, 
while the others helped to devour him before help arrived. 

September 14th. — Drove five miles and then rode 
two miles on an elephant to the Amber Palace. We were 
accompanied by a young lady from Spokane, Washington. 

Eiding an elephant is worse than riding in a tonga. 
He kneels down for you to mount, and then it is still 
necessary to have a ladder to reach the saddle. There 



Ten Months, on the Wing. 123 

were four of ws, with the guide; the saddle began to turn, 
and we feared we were going over every time he took a 
step. The driver sits on his neck and punches him in the 
head with a sharp iron spike — this to guide him. The 
guide said this animal Avas only seventy years old — quite 
a colt ! 

Amber Palace was built by Mimnas, in the tenth cen- 
tury. It is a grand pile of architecture, but is spoiled by 
having stucco laid over the marble. It is said that its 
beauty was such that it excited the envy of Jahangir, the 
Governor of Delhi^ and in order to preserve it from de- 
struction the Maharaja covered it with stucco. The ceil- 
ings are made of inlaid work, spangled with tiny mirrors, 
which cause it to scintillate and glisten like precious 
stones. 

In the Diwan-i-Am, a small temple, a goat is sacri- 
ficed every morning as a su,bstitute for the daily human 
sacrifice of prehistoric times. The sacrifice was just fin- 
ished when we arrived. 

From the northeast balcony a fine view is obtained of 
the town of Amber and the surrounding mountains and 
valleys. Amber was the capital of the district until 172S, 
when Jaipur was founded. 

There are thousands of doves at Jaipur and thousands 
of peafowls. There is a heavy penalty for killing the lat- 
ter, as they are held sacred — seven years' imprisonment 
is the price. 

Left Jaipur at twelve-thirty-five A. M. Arrived at 
Delhi this morning at eight o'clock. 

September 15th. — Maiden's Hotel. — This morning 
we went to the Fort, with its fine arcades and courts, and 
then to the Jama Masjid Mosque. This is one of the few 
mosques in India designed to produce a pleasing effect ex- 
ternally. It is adorned with noble minarets one hundred 
and thirty feet high; the mosque is two hundred feet long- 
and ninety feet wide ; built in 1658 A. D. It is construct- 
ed of red sandstone and white marble. The three white 



124 Te7i Months on the Wi^ig. 

marble domes are relieved by vertical lines of black mar- 
ble; the floor is of white marble, outlined in black. At 
the northeast corner of the court is a pavilion in which 
are placed the relics of the Prophet Mohammed. A dirty, 
greasy man with a filthy rag wrapped around the lower 
part of his body, the upper part being entirely naked, 
showed us what is purported to be one hair from the 
beard of the Prophet; also a print of his foot on a stone 
and a chapter of the Koran written by his son-in-law. 
When J. offered him two annas (two cents), he drew his 
hand back in disgust and said he was a High Priest and 
could accept nothing less than one rupee (thirty-three 
cents.) 

The approach to the mosque is by three splendid 
gateways and a grand flight of steps. Going out, we pass- 
ed the magazine where, during the Mutiny, Lieutenant 
Willoughby made his desperate attempt to hold the place 
until aid arrived. When defense was no longer possible, 
he blew up the magazine and escaped to the Kashmere 
Gate. 

Life in India is entirely different from anything we 
have encountered elsewhere. Our "boy" brings us choto 
hazri at six A. M. (consisting of fruit, coffee or tea and 
biscuits) ; we then take our bath and dress. By that time 
the carriage has arrived and we go sightseeing. At nine 
o'clock we breakfast; then rest until one-thirty, when we 
have tiffin. At four- thirty the carriage comes to take us 
out again; we return in time for eight o'clock dinner. 
We have to be fanned every minute we are in our room. 
At the large hotels on the coast they have electric fans, 
but we do not like to sleep under them as well as under 
the punka, as one is so much more liable to take cold from 
the fans. The punka is typically Indian. It is made of a 
piece of matting fastened to a frame which reaches al- 
most across the room. Over tliis are spread several thick- 
nesses of heavy cloth; the whole is suspended from the 
ceiling just over the two single beds; through a hole in 
the wall a cord is drawn, and this is pulled back and forth 



Ten Months on the Wing. 125 

by a coolie who sits on the floor outside the door; when 
one gets tired, another coolie relieves him. They keep it 
going all night, and charge one rupee — this to be divided 
among several. They are very anxious for the job, so 
one does not feel that he is working a hardship on them. 
If they fall asleep and the punka stops, one immediately 
awakens (for the heat is unbearable) ; then a shoe or 
something convenient must be thrown at them, when t 
punka begins to move directly. 

After tiffin we drove to the Fort and went inside to 
the magnificent palace of the Moghul, Emperor of Delhi. 
The Lahore Gate and the vaulted arcade are said to be 
the noblest entrance to any palace known. From here, 
we enter a large court five hundred and forty by fou.r 
hundred and twenty feet; on the further side is the Di- 
wan-i-Am, or public audience hall, with a place for Mo- 
hammedans on one side and for Hindus on the other. 
The engrailed arches are extremely beautiful. They are 
of red sandstone, formerly covered with brilliant chunam. 
At the back is a raised recess where the Emperor used to 
be seated on the Peacock Throne; (this was carried oil 
by the Persians, and is now used by the Emperor of Per- 
sia.) Below is the marble seat of the Wazir, and above 
are inlaid panels of white marble. A gate on the north 
led to the innermost court of the palace, called the Diwan- 
i-Khas, or private audience hall, considered to be one of 
the most graceful buildings in the world. The arches and 
ceiling were done in pure silver, overlaid with gold leaf. 
The columns were delicately carved and set in precious 
stones. Almost all of these were carried of? by the Per- 
sian invaders. The hall measures ninety by sixty-seven 
feet and is constructed wholly of white marble; no wood 
of any kind being used. Over the outer arches is the fa- 
mous Persian inscription, "If Heaven can be on the face 
of the earth. It is this. Oh, it is this! Oh, it is this!" 
Through the center runs a marble channel, which was 
inlaid in gold and silver to represent waves as the water 
rippled over it. At the left was a lattice grill of carved 



126 Ten Months on the Wing. 

ivory, which shielded the Queen from view and allowed 
her to witness the entertainments. It was here that the 
famous Peacock Throne stood; two large birds occupied 
the space, one on either side, their tails forming a back- 
ground for the seat of the Emperor. The tails were or- 
namented in masses of precious stones. 

In the royal apartments are handsome marble bath- 
rooms, the floors, walls and ceilings all of white marble, 
carved and inlaid. Here the women of the harem were 
massaged and rubbed with perfume and powder. 

Opposite to this is the Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, 
built by Aurangzeb for his favorite wife — a beautiful Hin- 
du, converted to Mohammedanism to please her lord and 
master. The walls are decorated in low relief and, like 
the rest of this earthly paradise, are of marble. There 
are many other apartments and a small museum in con- 
nection, in which are kept the royal relics. 

On our return we drove through Queen's Garden and 
the Kudsia Garden, both very attractive, with many tropi- 
cal trees and flowers. 

Septembee 16TI-I. — After tiffin we drove to the mon- 
ument erected by the comrades of the soldiers who fell in 
the summer of 1857. From the ridge a fine view is ob- 
tained of the city. When we go out in a carriage we have 
a boy who runs ahead and shouts at the people to get out 
of the A? ay. 

We drove through several fine parks, and then to the 
Jain Temple. We have to remove our shoes or put slip- 
pers on over them. The High Priest had on nothing ])ut 
a "gee string." 

The costumes of some of the natives are unique, to 
say the least. Our driver today Avore a long shirt outside 
his drawers, and over this a pink silk vest with a flowered 
fi'ont. They love bright colors, and to see the people 
after five o'clock on the street is to see a perfect riot of 
colors, and is an attractive picture, indeed. 

Our baths are zinc or earthen tubs like washtubs. 



Ten Months on the W ing . 127 

One stands in them and pours the water over the body 
with a large tin cup; a coolie brings the water in a pig- 
skin twice a day, for one wants to bathe night and morn- 
ing in this heat. 

The people love to travel, and as a third-class ticket 
costs only one-third of a cent per mile, the trains are 
crowded with low-caste people. They fight and knock 
one another over the heads in their squabble for seats. 
The different castes fight over who shall have the choicest 
places. Of course, they will not sit together; are often 
divided by a mere string, but that apparently satisfies 
their consciences. 

September 17th. — We left Delhi at eight A, M. and 
arrived at Hotel Laurie, in Agra, a little after eleven 
o'clock. 

At four we drove to the Taj Mahal. We were not 
disappointed in it. It is even more beautiful than we 
had conceived it to be — a symphony in marble; the soul 
of lyric poetry; satisfying to all the senses in its incom- 
parable majesty; created by the love of a woman. Love 
is the creator and instigator of all that is worth while. 
God is Love, and Love is all; the same that "gilds the 
clouds and greens the April sod.'' Wlien dying, a pris- 
oner in the hands of his ungrateful son, the last request 
of Shah Jahan was that he might be carried out to the 
Jasmine Palace, where the last thing his eyes rested on 
would be the tomb of his Beloved. 

We went back to view the Taj by moonlight, when its 
beauty is further enhanced, and it seemed even more like 
a vision of the temple, "not made by hands, eternal in the 
heavens.'' 

It is said that twenty thousand men were employed 
in its construction. The most prominent among the.m 
were the Italian artists. It was twenty-two years in build- 
ing and cost 18,465,186 rupees (over six million dollars.) 
Originally there were two silver doors at the entrance, but 
these were taken away and melted by Suraj Mai and his 



128 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Jats. The people named it the Taj bibi ka Eoza, or 
"Crown Ladies' Tomb." It was begun in 1040. 

September 18th. — Arose early and drove to the 
Fort and the Moti Mas j id of Shah Jahan — a splendid 
conception in architecture, almost equal to the Pearl 
Mosque at Delhi; white marble, inlaid in precious stones. 

Near by is the red sandstone palace of his wife. He 
also had a Christian wife, but his favorite was Arjmand 
Banu, entitled Murataz-i-Mahal, or Pride of the Palace. 
She was a daughter of Araf Khan, who was a brother of 
Nur jahan, the famous wife of Jahan jir. Their father 
was a Persian. She had seven children and died at Bur- 
hanpur in Deccan. The palace of the Hindu wife is call- 
ed Jahanjir Mahal. The luxury and elegance of these 
palaces and mosques of the Moghul Emperors is far be- 
yond any of modern royalty, causing the latter to appear 
even commonplace. 

Agra, like Delhi, is a city of parks and shady ave- 
nues, showing the influence of the English. Both cities 
are situated on the river Jumma. 

September 19th. — We left Agra at three-thirty P. 
M. Arrived at Cawnpore at six-thirty A. M. 

We immediately hired a carriage and drove to the 
Memorial Well. The well is surmounted by a beautiful 
marble angel, enclosed in a Gothic screen; this surrounded 
by a fine park. During the Mutin}'', in this well were 
thrown the bodies of two hundred and ten English wo- 
men and children, dead and dying. No native is allowed 
inside the screen and only a few coolies who care for the 
grounds are allov^^ed inside the park. Not even Eoyal na- 
tives can enter without a pass, and they are not permitted 
inside the screen. 

A few steps to the left of the well stood the bunga- 
low of two rooms, each ten by twenty feet, in which these 
women and children were confined for a month. On the 
15th of July, 1857, when Nana Sahib heard that the 



Ten Months on the W ing . 139 

English were advancing, he ordered his soldiers to shoot 
the women and children, but being less heartless than he, 
the soldiers fired at the ceiling. The Shah then sent out 
and employed a great number of murderers to do the atro- 
cious business. They spent the whole night between the 
15th and 16th in cutting the throats and otherwise de- 
bauching their victims. One can imagine the excruciat- 
ing suffering of the poor victims as they witnessed the 
slaughter of their loved ones and friends. 

Near the well is a tree on which two hundred and 
fifty of the mutineers were hanged by the English. Some 
of the leaders were tied to the mouths of cannon and 
blown to pieces. 

Returning to the Station^ we breakfasted and then 
went to the Memorial Church. 

Left Cawnpore at twelve-forty-five P. M. and were in 
Lueknow by three-fifteen. Hotel Imperial. 

September 30th. — Had choto hazri at an early 
hour, then drove to the English Eesidency, where an Eng- 
lish soldier showed us through and related the story of 
the siege, which lasted eighty-seven days. There were in 
all about seven thousand men garrisoned here, but the 
native desertions reduced the force nine hundred; one 
hundred and fifty volunteers, seven hundred native 
troops, six hundred women and children, seven hundred 
non-cobmatant natives. This small handful held back 
an army of forty thousand, although almost at the point 
of starvation and many ill and dying from cholera, small- 
pox and wounds — they having had no medicine. There 
was not a minute of the time that they were not under 
the continual fire from the guns of the enemy. The Eng- 
lish had few guns and scarcely any ammunition ; but they 



(Note) A few days since, there was a riot here between 
British soldiers and Moslems over the removal of 
a part of a mosque, to make room for a new tram- 
way. About eight hundred Moslems were killed. 



130 Ten Months on the Wing. 

had courage and determination. Out of one room alone 
four hundred and thirty cannon balls were taken. When 
General Havelock came to their relief, on the 25th of Sep- 
tember, he found them reduced to one-half their original 
number. The siege was not ended until the arrival of 
Sir Colin Campbell, on November 10th. Each soldier in 
the garrison was reduced by this time to two ounces of 
food per day. Sir Henry Lawrence had died from wounds 
inflicted by a shell. His grave, in the cemetery enclosed 
by an iron rail, bears the well-known inscription, "Hero 
lies Henry Lawrence, who tried to do his duty. May the 
Lord have mercy on his soul," placed there by his request. 
In the grave are several of his comrades-in-arms, it being 
his desire that he might be buried with some of his sol- 
diers. When the siege was raised, the English women 
who came to the relief of their sisters state that so rotten 
were their garments that they fell off when touched. 

Lucknow is even prettier than Delhi and Agra. It 
is situated on the river Gumti and laid out in immense 
parks and broad streets lined with trees. The Englisih 
quarter of the city is very clean. Strange to say, there 
are few flies in the English quarters; perhaps 'tis because 
they find sufficient food in the native quarters. The 
droppings of the cattle and horses are carefully gathered 
up by the native women and children, made into cakes or 
small balls and pasted up on the sides of the houses to 
dry, then taken to market and sold to the agriculturists 
for fertilizer. Instead of screens, we have light matting 
at the doors and windows. 

There are two kinds of cattle here — the cream-col- 
ored sacred cow, with a hump, and the blue or gray-col- 
ored water buffalo. The latter gets into the water p.t 
every opportunity; all you can see of him is the top of 
his head. Both kinds of cattle are used for dairy pur- 
poses. 

At four o'clock we drove to the great Imambarah 
Mosque. The court has a fine gateway. The two tall 
minarets surmount the mosque. The great hall is one 



Ten Months on the Wing. 131 

hundred and sixty-three by forty-nine feet, one of the 
largest vaulted halls in the world. It has a quantity of 
tawdry furnishings. 

At the end of the roadway is another fine gateway — 
the Eumi Darwazah. A thousand yards beyond is the 
Husinabad Imambarah, built by Ali Shah as a tomb for 
himself. It stands in a large quadrangle and has a mar- 
ble reservoir for water. 

On our return we passed the Clock Tower and through 
the Kaisar Bagh, a splendid park; then through the na- 
tive quarters, where are the bazaars and where one sees 
Indian life as it really is. The flies are like a continual 
swarm of bees. The bazaars are about seven by five feet : 
each one has a certain kind of article for sale. Above arc 
rooms of like dimensions, occupied by the families. They 
are like rat holes, and as the Hindu is opposed to taking 
life, every kind of vermin exists by the thousands — rats, 
mice, squirrels, snakes; also monkej^s, hyenas, tigers, ec 
cetera. 

The Mohammedan women are carried about in pa- 
lanquins, or "dhoolies," in order that the men may not 
see them; all that is visible is a bare foot now and then. 
I cannot see what there is to make the men wish to be- 
hold the majority of them. To the eyes of one from the 
Occident, they are anything but attractive. They all dec- 
orate their ankles an^I toes with anklets and rings, their 
arms with bracelets, their noses with gold or silver but- 
tons or large hoop rings. Even tiny babes are ornamented 
thus. The female children have their eyelids painted with 
something to make them look dark. We are told that it 
is so painful that they cry for forty-eight hours after it 
is applied, and in the end it causes blindness. The ears 
are pierced at top and lobe and large rings are worn, 
which often pull through the flesh. Their teeth are dyed 
with betel nut to make them black. One often sees wo- 
men with little on except rags, but never without numer- 
ous bracelets and anklets; some men wear them also. 



132 Ten Months on the Wing. 

September 21st. — Left Lucknow at nine-thirty A. 
M. — reached Benares at three P. M. Hotel de Paris. 

A very hot ride at this season of the year. It is time 
for cool weather now, but the monsoons were so slight 
this summer in this part of India that the hot weather 
holds over longer than usual. 

September 22xd. — At five o'clock A. Ml we went 
down the Ganges on a house-boat to see the people wor- 
shiping the river and to visit the different Ghats, or 
wharfs. The last fifteen days has been the Hindu festi- 
val season — the time when people send food and drink to 
the spirits of their fathers and mothers. This is done by 
having the priest bless some bunches of grass, pour water 
over it, then dip it in the river while a prayer is offered 
up; all the while the worshiper is bowing to the rising 
sun. The grass is then sent down the river on its way to 
Paradise. Other offerings were flowers, milk and flour. 
The priest was making the Sign of God on the foreheads 
of many. This is a spot of red paint, or several stripes 
of white powder. This also indicates the caste to whicli 
one belongs. There were a thousand or more in the wa- 
ter, praying, dipping themselves and drinking. 

At the Smashan Ghat, which is used as a crematorv, 
we saw a body laid on the funeral pyre ready to be burned. 
It was wrapped in white, this indiciating a male: the 
women are always wrapped in red. We did not care to 
remain for the cremation. 

On our return, we met four men carrying, on a litter 
made of bamboo, the body of a woman wrapped in red. 
They were taking her to the ghat to be cremated. 

There are about two dozen ghats, with temples built 
near them, where the priests beat drums and ring bells, 
repeating the name of some of the numerous gods. There 
is such a confusion of gods, and such a similarity between 
the different creeds, that it would puzzle one's brain to at- 
tempt to classify them. 

We returned by the Golden Temple ; it is connected 



Ten Months on the Wing. 133 

with a Jain Temple; has two domes covered with gold 
leal The Jain section is of red brick. The temple is 
dedicated to Shiva. The entrance has a finely wrought 
brass door. In the quadrangle is the Well of Knowledge, 
where, according to Hindu tradition, the emblem of Shiva 
took refuge when the original temple was destroyed. The 
well is covered with a stone canopy, and an excited crowd 
is always congregated here. Formerly they threw offer- 
ings of flowers into the well, but this is now forbidden by 
the government. 

The Hindus believe the Ganges flows from a fabu- 
lous lake in the Himalayan Mountains, near Kailas, or 
Shiva Heaven. 

At four o'clock we went to visit Sarnath, the site of 
old Benares, where Buddha first taught. Sarnath means 
"Deer King," a name given to Buddha on account of his 
fondness for this animal. 

About three miles out^ on the left of the road, is a 
very ancient Tope, said to date back to 500 B. C. The 
building consists of a stone basement ninety feet in diam- 
eter, solidly built, the stones being clamped together with 
iron to the height of forty-three feet; above this, for one 
hundred and ten feet is solid brick work, there being no 
chambers of any sort. Externally, the lower part is re- 
lieved by eight projecting faces, each twenty-one feet six 
inches v/ide and fifteen feet apart. The niches were in- 
tended to contain seated figures of Buddha. Below is a 
band of sculpture encircling the monument. On the side 
near Sarnath the sculpture is Greek in style and probably 
dates from 1017 A. D. At Sarnath there are extensive 
ruins of an old monastery recently excavated by General 
Cunningham. Many relics were found, and are placed on 
exhibition in a museum erected on the spot six years ago. 
Near by is a large Stupa, or Tope, built by Buddha, re- 
cently restored. 

September 23rd. — Had an early choto hazri and 
went before breakfast to visit the Palace of the Maharaja 



134 Ten Months on the Wing. 

and the Monkey Temple. The Hindus worship the mon- 
key and other animals; believing in the transmigration of 
the soul, they think one of the gods entered a monke.i. 
(Miss Besant has a large School of Theosophy here.) The 
Hindus also worship trees, among them the pipal, the 
banyan and several the name of which I have forgotten. 
It was under the banyan that Shiva was incarnated. \ 
good feature of Hindu religion is the teaching that if one 
lives uprightl}^ and practices self-control, the soul ceases 
to migrate and one is permanently happy in Nirvana. 

September 24th. — ^Left Benares at two-forty P. M. 
Arrived at Calcutta at six-thirty A. M. Shortly after 
leaving Benares the road passes through miles of paddy 
fields, rice being the chief article of commerce here.. 

We are stopping at the Grand Hotel. Had letters 
from home; they are like finding diamonds to us. 

Septembee 25th. — Went for an early drive through 
the city. Calcutta is much warmer than was Bombay, 
when we were there. The population of Calcutta is near- 
ly one million; Bombay claims nine hundred thousand. 

Left Calcutta at five-thirty; traveled for almost three, 
hours, or until eight-fifteen P. M., when we reached Dar- 
mudkia Station, where we crossed the Ganges to Sara 
Ghat. (Calcutta is on the Hoogli, a branch of the Gan- 
ges.) We dined on board and took the train again at 
Sara Ghat. 

The country from Calcutta to this point is swampv 
and mostly planted to rice and jute. The native huts are 
constructed of bamboo, with thatched roofs. 

Arrived at Silliguri about six-forty A. M. Had 
choto hazri. Changed to a narrow-gauge road to go up 
the mountain. The cars look like toys, they are so small ; 
and the locomotive is of a peculiar build — small, but very 
powerful. It puffed and blew most prodigiously on the 
steep grades. 

The Himalayas rise abruptly from the plains, with- 



Ten Months o n t li e W i n g . 135 

out foothills, like those at home. The railway climhs up 
a switch-back road, making many loops (hut without tun- 
nels) through a virgin forest as dense as a Jungle. I 
recognized miany trees and vines familiar to my child- 
hood in Nicaragua, but whose names are now forgotten. 
The trunks of the trees are covered with moss, orchids 
and ferns to thirty feet above ground. A tangle of flow- 
ering vines festoon the roadway and great clumps of ferns 
three and four feet long bank the sides. Being inordi- 
nately fond of nature, we have as many, or even more 
"emotions" than Samantha had when she went into old 
Miss Burns' room at Dumfries. The scenery is wonderful ; 
we have not enjoyed anything so much since leaving Nor- 
way; of course, this is entirely difi^erent. The luxuriant 
growth extends to the summit of the mountains, except 
where it has been cleared off for tea farms. They occupy 
the slopes in many places, and we are told the tea is con- 
sidered the finest in the world. The natives have an en- 
tirely different cast of features from those in the lower 
country; they are mixed with Mongolians. This is called 
the Eoof of the World; and one imagines it is so in real- 
ity, when one finds one's self miles above the clouds, gaz- 
ing down into them.. It has the appearance of a bottom- 
less abyss; and still the elevation is not high at Darjeel- 
ing (7,401 feet) in comparison with average mountains 
at home. It is being so near the sea, and rising up so 
abruptly from the plain, that gives them the appearance 
of such great height. Of course, Mt. Everest really is the 
highest known mountain in the world. The temperature 
here is about fifty-eight degrees at night, and very re- 
freshing after Calcutta. It rains a great deal and there 
are few days when one can get a clear view of the sur- 
rounding mountains. They rise up all around us and. 
when the weather permits, one gets an extensive view of 
an hundred miles or more of the level plain and the num- 
erous rivers. 

We arrived at Darjeeling at twelve-fifty and were 
drawn up the hill to the hotel in a jinrikisha. Woodland 



136 Ten M onths on t h e Wing. 

Hotel is a quaint place, not unlike the Bright Angel at 
the Grand Canyon. 

September 26th. — We find it so cool as to require 
a little fire, both morning and evening. 

We walked to Observatory Hill this afternoon. There 
is a fine park, and on the top of the hill is a Hindu shrino 
composed of long poles hung with different colored rags. 
It looks more like a child's playhouse than anything else. 

September 27th. — We are resting up from our 
strenuous sight-seeing. One gets weary, both mentally 
and physically, when seeing so much each day that is new 
and wonderful. 

September 28th. — Went for a long climb up the 
mountain. I got very tired and Hafiz — the guide — want- 
ed me to get on his back and let him carry me down. 
Would not that be trying to one of my dignity? 

September 29th. — Made some kodaks today, the 
first time the sun has shown sufficiently to take them. 

The Maharaja of Bengal is at the hotel with his fam- 
ily and a retinue of servants. Also the Dutch Consul and 
his wife and some pleasant English people. 

This is the Buddha Christmas-time, and everybody 
takes a vacation for a fortnight. 

September 30th. — -The Governor of Manila is here 
today. He has resigned, and is going home. 

October 1st. — Left Darjeeling at two P. M. Ar- 
rived at Calcutta at one A. M., October 2nd. 

October 2nd. — Hotel Great Eastern. — Calcutta is 
even hotter than when we were here a week ago. 

October 3rd. — Spent the day trying to keep cool. 



Ten Months on the W ing . 137 

October 4th. — Met some Americans from New 
York. They have employed our Boy as traveling servant, 
to go with them through India. We hate to part with 
him, but he would do us no good in Burma. 

October 5th. — Sailed from Calcutta at seven A. M. 
on the steamship Arancola. We go down the river Hoogli 
for a hundred miles before we reach the open sea. 

October 6th. — Have had a pleasant voyage thus 
far. We had an impromptu concert tonight; tried our 
best to sing, but only succeeded in making a big noise — 
still it made a jolly time for all concerned. 

October 7th. — Arrived at Rangoon ten A. M. — 
Boyal Hotel. 

. October 8th. — Went for a walk this morning. 
After tiffin we drove to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, the 
most venerable and finest pagoda of Burma. Its peculiar 
sanctity is due to the fact that it is the only known pa- 
goda which is credited with the actual relics, not only of 
Guatama, but the three Buddhas who preceded him. It 
attracts pilgrims from all over the world. We have not 
seen anything more interesting in the line of temples 
anywhere. The marvelous amount of carving and orna- 
mentation is almost stupefying. One feels bewildered and 
unable to grasp the details. The temple occupies a mound 
partly artificial and partly natural, cut into rectangular 
terraces, one above the other, each side facing one of the 
cardinal points of the compass. The mound rises one 
hundred and sixty-eight feet above the ground, in four 
flights of steps. It is nine hundred feet long and six hun- 
dred and eighty-five feet wide. At the foot are two gi- 
gantic leographs. The front porch is of teak wood, carved 
throughout. The cross beams are embellished with scenes 
from the life of Guatama and his disciples. The stairs 
debouch on a broad open court which runs all around the 



138 Ten Months on the W ing . 

pagoda, and is left free for worshipers; from the center 
of this rises the pagoda itself. It has a circumference of 
one .thousand three hundred and fifty-five feet and rises 
to the height of three hundred and seventy feet — a 
little higher than St. Paul's Cathedral. It is profusely 
gilded with gold leaf from base to top and surmounted by 
the usual gilt umbrella, from which are suspended multi- 
tudinous gold and silver bells. This Ti, or umbrella, was 
presented to the pagoda by Mindon Mim, the late King 
of Burma, and cost two hundred and fifty thousand dol- 
lars — (in American money.) It is set in precious jewels. 
At the corners of the basement are figures of creatures 
with two bodies and one head, half lion and half man, 
with huge ears and rufi:led crest. All about these figures 
are other lions with grinning teeth. 

The legend says that when Buddha was a child he 
was lost in the forest and suckled by a lioness. When he 
attained to manhood, he left his foster mother and swam 
a large river to escape from her The tender-hearted 
mother's heart burst with grief. 

The four chapels at the foot of the pagoda are adorn- 
ed with sitting Buddhas. There is a Chinese pagoda and 
a Japanese pagoda. The figures of the Buddha in these 
differ in features from the Burmese Buddha. There are 
hundreds of images. Around the edge of the platfrom arc 
hosts of small pagodas — a mass of gilt and colored glass — 
elaborately carved, each with its ti and image-house over- 
flowing with the gifts ofi:ered by generations of pilgrims. 
Anyone who builds a pagoda is considered a great philan- 
thropist, and is looked up to by all his neighbors. Hence 
the first thing a man does, when he is able, is to build one 
or more pagodas, according to his means. They are also 
built as atonement for sin. The same thing applies to 
the placing of gold leaf on the j^agodas. The poor people 
deny themselves almost of necessary food in order to buy 
gold for an atonement, or as a return for favors from tho 
gods. This accounts for the multitude of images of Gua- 



Ten Months on the Wing. 13?> 

tama in low stone chapels. The manufacture of images ii^ 
a thriving business. 

There are tall poles from which flaunt long cylindri- 
cal streamers of bamboo framework, pasted over pictures 
depicting scenes from sacred history or inscribed with 
pious invocations — the top surmounted by the sacred 
goose. Interspersed among these are small bells, which 
the worshiper strikes as he passes, to call the attention ol 
the nats, or gods, and incidentally of men, to his act of 
piety. 

In a gaily-covered shed is an enormous bell, inside 
which six men could stand. It weighs forty-two and a 
half tons and bears a long inscription recounting the mer- 
its of King Tharrawaddy, who presented it to the pa- 
goda. The British attempted to carry it to Calcutta after 
the second Burmese war, but it was lost in the river. The 
Burmese after some years recovered it. 

All the pagodas are glittering masses of inlaid glass^ 
both in colored and mirror glass. The facades and upper 
parts are carved like lace. The platform is never desert- 
ed; even until long after midnight, streams of worshipers 
come and go, and their voices may be heard far into the 
night, chanting pious aspirations. 

In one pagoda is a tremendous recumbent Buddha. 

At the foot of the Pagoda Hill are numerous monas- 
teries. The priests wear the same beatific smile one al- 
ways finds on the face of the Buddha. Buddhism is a 
cheerful religion, and its adherents seem to be very happy. 
The priests range in age from mere boys to old men. All 
wear a shaven poll and are dressed in a rich orange-col- 
ored cloth, draped from the shoulders, similar to the 
Greeks' toga. The priests are vegetarians. They are 
held in great respect by their co-religionists. They are 
supported by the charity of the people. It is a peculiar 
sight to witness the priests going from house to house 
collecting their day's rations. Each family contributes 
one spoonful of rice, and by the time they have visited a 



140 Ten Months on the Wing. 

dozen or more houses, sufficient food for the day has been 
obtained. 

From the Shwe Dagon, we drove out to the Eoyal 
Lake and Garden, one of the most pleasant parks we have 
seen anywhere. 

On our return we came through the Bazaars. They 
present a scene of gaiety and animiatioin that is fasci- 
nating in the extreme. 

We are greatly charmed with Eangoon, and find the 
city itself and conditions of life more interesting than 
any place we have visited since Cairo. The people ap- 
pear cleaner and more prosperous than in India. They 
are altogether different in type, and seem a happier lot. 
Their clothes are better, and range in colors of the rain- 
bow, making the street scenes a bright beautiful picture, 
and the gardens resemble lovely water-colors in the late 
afternoon, when the people are dispersed over the green 
turf amid the trees and lakes. 

October 9th. — This morning at seven o'clock we 
drove out to the timber yards to see the elephants at work. 
The intelligence they display is most astonishing, and the 
strength of their trunks in handling the huge logs, pro- 
digious. 

Coming back, we stopped at the jail saleroom to see 
the carving done by the prisoners. There are three thous- 
and of them in this prison, and as many more in another 
one, seven miles out. 

At four we took" another drive and visited another 
pagoda, containing an immense Buddha forty-seven feet 
high and thirty feet across the shoulders. It has a very 
large diamond in its forehead. Like all pagodas, it is very 
ornately decorated. 

At some little distance is still another Buddha of even 
greater proportions than this. All that may be seen of it, 
from a distance, is its tremendous head above the trees 
and housetops and one foot, as it is in a recumbent post- 



Ten Months on the W in g . 11 1 

tion. I should judge it is all of one hundred feet in 
length. 

On our outgoing drive we met a procession of Hindu 
Devil Dancers^ carrying images, beating drums and toor- 
ing horns. 

Entering the city on our return, we encountered an- 
other excited crowd;, watching a different kind of Devil 
Dance. In this the performers were dummies dressed to 
represent men and women. These dummies were borne 
above the heads of the multitude^ and made to appear as 
dancing, while the drums and horns made an ear-splitting 
noise. We also visited the Lake of Sacred Fish. No 
one is allowed to catch them. There are women caretakers 
whose duty it is to feed and look after them. There are 
millions of the fish, thick as macaroni in a dish, wiggling 
and squirming like snakes when food is thrown into tlie 
water. The women sell a sort of biscuit to sight-seers with 
which to feed them. 

October IOtii. — Left Rangoon at noon for Manda- 
lay. The railway runs through paddy fields for a long 
distance. 

About five P. M. we reached the jungle, and from 
that time on until bedtime, we traveled mostly through a 
dense forest. 

At one station we saw an immense figure of Buddha, 
recently excavated from the forest. It was built of brick 
and covered with plaster. 

October 11th. — Arrived at Mandalay at one-thirty 
this morning. Are located at Salween Hotel — the only 
hotel in the town. 

After tiffin we visited the Arankan Pagoda with our 
new guide, Karamat Kahn. It is rendered especially sa- 
cred by the great grass Buddha twelve feet high. It dif- 
fers from most of the images in that its features are gross 
and repulsive. 

At the next pagoda, Aindaw Yah, they were making 



142 Ten Months on the ^¥ in g . 

preparations for a great festival, which will open on the 
15th. Any and everybody may attend the feast and be 
served with refreshments free. Each pagoda has. a treas- 
ury box, into which people drop a coin. At the festival 
season these boxes are opened. The pagoda is repaired 
and redecorated, according to the amount obtained. This 
is at holiday time and everything is then free to all. Thei'e 
is dancing and other forms of entertainment, the marion- 
ette being one especially enjoyed. 

October 12th. — Arose early and went out before 
breakfast; drove to Mandalay Hill, where we climbed to 
the top of the pagoda for a view of the city. Mandalay 
resembles a large, straggling village, laid out in broad 
streets at right angles. The residences are far apart, and 
so embowered in trees that they are scarcely discernible 
until one comes in close proximity to them. They are 
mostly constructed of teakwood, a wooden structure be- 
ing necessary on account of frequent earthquakes and the 
humidity of the atmosphere, which makes them healthier 
than brick buildings would be. 

We went by the Serpents' Pagoda ; also stopped at 
the Kuthodaw Pagoda, with its seven hundred and twenty- 
nine small pagodas, each containing an inscription from 
the sacred books of the Veda. The pagodas are in straight 
rows, enclosed by a high wall one-half mile square. lu 
the center is the usual gilded pagoda. 

We then went to the Tai-k Taw Monastery, where we 
met a fine old monk, whose face beamed with benevo- 
lence. He treated us most kindly and said he was sorry 
he could not speak to us in English. On taking leave of 
him he presented me with some verses from the Veda, 
written on a palm leaf. We wished to present him with a 
small remembrance, but he refused, so we gave it to an 
humbler monk to buy flowers for the worship — this is 
customary, all the altars being bedecked with floral of- 
ferings. I feel certain he was as much "in tune with the 
Infinite" as many Christians. "W^ien I offered him my 



Ten Months on the Wing. 14.3 

hand at parting, he said he was sorry not to take my hand, 
but his order forbade him to touch a woman. 

This is Sunday. We went to a Chinese reception with 
our proprietor. It was held at one of the large pagodas. 
There was a great throng of people in the grounds, it be- 
ing one of the important feast days. The pavilion was 
elaborately decorated with lanterns, tissue-paper flowers 
and flags of the different nations. Only invited guests 
were allowed inside the Chinese pavilion. Great piles of 
all varieties of fruit adorned the long tables; this to be 
ofi'ered to the gods, by throwing it in the river and given 
to the ponges, or priests. The whole affair is for tlie 
benefit of the ponges. Tonight is Chinese night; tomor- 
row is Burmese night, when a wealthy native will give a 
feast. We were served several kinds of cake and candies, 
with tea; but the tea was a sickening concoction served 
with skimmed milk and sugar. Later there will be danc- 
ing by Burmese girls and boys. We did not remain, as 
it is so warm. 

OcTOBEE 13th. — Went to several pagodas before 
breakfast, among them Bishop's Pagoda and several mon- 
asteries, chief of which was the Queen's Golden Monas- 
tery — now in a state of decay. This is built of teakwood, 
profusely decorated with carving and heavily gilded with- 
in and without. It was constructed in 1882, but the hu- 
midity causes wood to decay in a few years unless well 
protected. 

In the afternoon we drove to Fort Buffering. The 
walls of the fort are twenty feet high and one and one- 
fourth miles long on each side. The whole is surrounded 
by a moat fifty feet wide, the waters of which are covered 
with lotus leaves and blossoms. On each of the four 
sides, at regular intervals, are watchtowers of Burmese 
design. There are twelve gates. In the enclosure are 
situated the Government buildings and soldiers' barracks. 
The grounds are planted to fine trees and flowers. 

Exactly in the center of the Fort stands the Eoyal 



144 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Palace of King Mindon. Here he surrendered to the 
British after the conquest of Burma. He is now in exile 
in India. The palace is built of teakwood, highly orna- 
mented with carAdngs and gold leaf. There were several 
different throne rooms — the Peacock Throne, The Lion 
Throne, the Duck Throne and the Lily Throne. The lat- 
ter was the place where the women were received. Over 
the Lion Throne rises the seven-storied gilded spire, which 
the Burmese used to call "the center of the universe."' 
Hard by the palace is the Museum of King Mindon and 
his sister. 

The Zaygo Bazaar, which lies in the center of tlie 
city, occupies a very large space. Here are silk mer- 
chants, silversmiths, lacquer makers, umbrella makers, 
makers of tissue-paper flowers, and all kinds of Burmese 
wares. The tissue-paper flowers are very much used for 
dressing the hair of the women. 

October 14th. — Left Mandalay at five A. M. We 
came down to the boat last night and went on board at 
eight-thirty P. M. The boat did not leave the landing 
until this morning. 

We have had a pleasantly cool day; it rained part of 
the time. There are only five passengers in the first- 
class; no ladies except myself. This is the steamship 
Siam, Captain Musgrave in command. 

Eeached the Ghat at Lapoka about one P. M. ; are 
tied up until four A. M., loading cargo. 

October IStii. — This morning we passed hundreds 
of pagodas. If there be a reward for the building of 
fanes to his gods, the Burmese is certain of an exalted 
seat in Heaven. His two great virtues are giving alms 
and building pagodas. 

They live well, having reasonably comfortable houses. 
The women wear much jewelry, either of gold or silver^ 
set with precious stones. They do not wear ornaments in 
their noses, as do the natives of India, nor disfigure their 



Ten Months on the Wi n g . 145 

faces with tatooing, as the former do, though the men 
often tattoo their legs above the knee. Both the men and 
the women wear silk, which is dyed in unfading colors, 
generally bright reds, blues, yellows, pinks — plain and 
plaids. Eveiy woman and girl has at least half a dozen 
changes. The men wear a kind of shirt called an "ainge ;" 
the lower garment is called a "longe.'' There is only a 
slight difference in the garments of the sexes, the men 
tying the longe on the side, and women in front. The 
women have luxuriant hair, worn like a turban, glossy 
with the oil of coeoanut and ornamented with tissue-paper 
flowers. 

The babes go nude until four or five years old. The 
first thing a boy wears in the way of clothing is a string, 
with a metal ornament in front. The girl babies look 
like dolls. They shave their heads, leaving only a top- 
knot, which is tied with bright ribbon. 

The Burmese is copped-colored and many of the wo- 
men are handsome. The English call them the "Irish of 
the East," on account of their jolly, happy dispositions. 

We stopped at several stations to load freight and 
take on passengers, mostly natives, although we have sev- 
eral more Englishmen and one American, with his Eus- 
eian wife. He is from Ohio, interested in oil business 
here. At one place there are veritable forests of oil wells. 
The oil is piped down to Eangoon. 

October 16th. — Passed the time reading today. We 
tie up every night and only travel by day. The Irrawady 
is as broad as the Mississippi, and quite as muddy. 

October 17th. — Captain Musgrave sang for us this 
afternoon. It is J.'s birthday. 

October 18th. — We are going through the Delta to- 
day. The mosquitoes are numerous and vicious. 



146 Ten M ontlis on the Wing. 

October 19th. — Arrived at Rangoon at eight A. M. 
Hotel Eoyal. 

It is very hot here. 

October 20th. — Went shopping. We were advised 
to buy rubies here, but we find the genuine article just as 
expensive as at home. 

October 21st. — Rested. 

October 22nd. — Went for a drive through the park- 
in the afternoon. 

October 23rd. — Left Rangoon at three-thirty for 
Singapore on the steamship Ellora. 

There are four American ladies on board. They are 
glad to see fellow countrymen, having traveled about the 
same route as we. 

October 24-th. — A smooth sea and a fine breeze 
make life very pleasant after the heat of Rangoon. 

We have an amusing time with the Captain and sev- 
eral Englishmen. They criticise the Americans' use of 
English, finding it amusing; while we, on the other hand, 
find them quite as amusing in their knowledge — or lack 
of knowledge — of the great country across the Atlantic. 

October 25th. — Today we passed many green is- 
lands off the coast of Siam. 

October 26th, Sunday. — We reached Penang about 
seven A. M. Stopped here all day, taking cargo. Al- 
most every one went on shore for the day. I was not 
well, and J. would not go without me. 

The American ladies report a fine day; say there is 
an excellent botanical garden and an interesting Chinese 
pagoda. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 147 

OcTOBEE 27TII. — Played cards most of the forenoon 
and listened to Captain Sharp's stories. 

One was an experience he had when he first came on 
this line. A native, with a sad expression of counten- 
ance, came np and saluted him, at the same time making 
a request of him. The Captain thought the man wanted 
medicine, and poured for him a large dose of castor oil; 
the man remonstrated, but the Captain insisted on his 
taking it, which he finally did, but with a very wry face. 
The native then went off and returned with a friend who 
spoke a little English. The friend explained that the 
first man had lost the key to his box, and wanted to know 
whether or not the Captain had seen it! 

October 28th. — Landed at Singapore at nine-thirty 
A. M. Hotel De Europe. 

October 29th. — Singapore is only sixty miles from 
the equator. We find it no warmer here than at Eangoon. 
It was cool enough to need a light wrap last night. 

The island on which Singapore is located is sixty-sis 
miles in circumference; has a population of two hundred 
and fifty thousand, seventy per cent of whom are Chinese : 
about eight hundred English, including the troops. There 
are also a number of Indians and many "Japs." The po- 
lice are Indians; some big husky fellows among them, too. 

The mode of travel is mostly by 'rikishas ; there are 
twelve thousand of them, the streets being as full of them 
as the ordinary city street is of cabs. Forty cents an houi* 
is the charge, and the coolie travels almost as fast as a 
horse. He wears short trousers that reach half-way to 
the knees; above this he sometimes wears a short jacket, 
but more often the upper part of his body is bare. His 
skin is a soft light brown, clean and satiny; his legs are 
well-shaped and well-developed from constant use; he 
lifts his feet like a horse when trotting, and can keep up 
a good gait for an hour at a time. The 'rikisha has a top 
like a perambulator, the body being painted in Chinese 



148 Ten Months on the Wing. 

design. The wheels are high and light. The 'rikisha was 
the invention of an American missionary. The coolie 
wears a hat of plaited bamboo leaves, which terminates in 
a sharp peak. 

Our hotel is a peculiar style of architecture. One 
floor is devoted to bedrooms and the next to baths. Each 
room has a bath — those on the first floor have the baths 
above, those on the second floor have the baths below. 
Like most Oriental hotels, there are no sanitary arrange- 
ments; you pull out the plug from the tub and the water 
runs off' through a pipe in the corner of the room. 

Our guide, Silva, is a Ceylonese. 

We drove this morning to see the city; also went out 
into the residence district. There are many lovely bun- 
galows, generally the property of wealthy Chinese, who 
build them to rent to the English. They are so arranged 
that the air may circulate through them from all sides; 
they are often raised several feet above ground on brick 
pillars, to avoid dampness. 

Just outside of Singapore is a native village, built 
like lake-dwellers' houses, over the waters of the bay. This 
is done because building sites are so expensive. Their 
huts are of bamboo, v/ith thatched roofs. 

A wealthy Arab owns extensive grounds near the 
Botanical Gardens. They are handsomely laid out, with 
artificial lagoons and boat-houses. Near the Gardens are 
the soldiers' barracks. The roads are very beautiful and 
shady, with typical trees, on the trunks of which cling 
graceful vines and immense bunches of "birdnest" or- 
chids. 

We visited the Chinese pagoda — a quaint affair, full 
of Buddhas and highly ornate, with porcelain decorations. 

The Botanical Gardens contain many plants that one 
sees only in hothouses in temperate zones. Great lotas 
leaves with white and pink flowers, ferns of every vari- 
ety, poinpettias, vanilla plants, and creepers too numerous 
to mention; every variety of palms, some resembling a 
large fan have only one leaf. Some of them are forty 



Ten Months on the Wing. 149 

feet high; among them is the rosin palm, so called be- 
cause the upper part resembles a stick of sealing wax ; and 
the "toddy plant/' from which the natives extract an in- 
toxicating liquor. Besides these, are the bread fruit tree, 
jack fruit, papiya, mango, mangostino, bamboo, rattan, 
and many others. 

At four o'clock we took an auto and drove around 
the island — a ride of sixty-six miles. The road is excel- 
lent; we passed great groves of cocoanut palms, weighed 
down with fruit; vast estates of rubber and pineapples; 
often the pineapple is planted between the rows of rubber 
trees, thus providing a source of revenue until the rubbei* 
tree is old enough to tap. The tapping was in progress 
on several estates. The tree is first tapped when five 
years old. In the large trees the trunk is divided into 
four equal sections, the bark being cut on one section each 
year for four years, when the tree must be allowed to rest 
at least five years before tapping again. The knife is 
neevr allowed to penetrate the thin skin, or bark that is 
directly next to the wood, but a V-shaped place is cut out, 
and at the lower point a small tin spile is inserted; under 
this the cup, either of glass or china, is placed. Once a 
day a coolie collects the sap, which resembles thick cream. 
About four ounces is the limit a tree will produce in a 
day. In gathering, the man carries two pails; into one 
he empties the sap and in the other he washes the cup 
and replaces it under the spile. After the tree has been 
sufficiently tapped, a coolie washes the cut and stops the 
flow; the next year he taps another section, and so on lor 
four years. Small trees are not tapped so frequently. 
There is a great deal of capital being invested in rubber 
here. We saw sheets of rubber the size of towels hanging 
on the line to dry. The sap is dried between layers of 
ashes, and then rolled out into sheets. 

Pineapples are a very profitable crop. We met many 
carts loaded with them, driven by Chinese — the cart, a 
two-wheeled vehicle, drawn by sacred oxen. 



150 Ten Months on the Wing. 

There are also large sugar plantations, besides the 
indigo industry and sago manufacture. 

The indigo plant is pulled up and placed in water 
for about fifteen days, at the end of which time it is quite 
rotten. It is then rubbed until all the color is extracted. 
This settles to the bottom, the waste is drawn off and the 
indigo dried. The same process applies to sago. The 
bark of the tree is peeled off and soaked, the liquor drawn 
off and the flour cooked a certain length of time. This 
is put through a machine that forms it into beads. It is 
then ready for the market. 

The mandico plant flourishes here also. It is ground 
and afterwards cooked and run through a machine like 
the sago. 

The auto road is wonderfully beautiful. A kind of 
stone is used that approaches in appearance the tufa of 
New Mexico. It is very durable. At one place we passed 
through a virgin jungle, Vv^here tigers abound, and man 
could not penetrate without an ax. How much it appeals 
to a lover of trees ! 

"A tree is one of nature's words, 
A word of peace to man. 
A word that tells of central things 
From whence all things began." 

The Chinese are the gardeners here as elsewhere. 
They are an industrious people wherever you find them. 
The waiters in the hotels are all Chinese, and look so cool 
and clean in their white suits. 

We are informed that the prevailing sickness among 
the proletariat is beri-beri, caused by eating rice not well- 
cooked. There is a large hospital here where it is treated ; 
but there has been found no cure for it. 

October 30th. — Have been ill today. 

October 31st. — ^^Vent shopping this morning. 

November 1st. — We came on board the steamer Na- 



T e n M o nths on the W i n g . 151 

vanha (P. & 0. Line) at three P. M. It is very hot 
standing in clock while they coal the ship. 

November 2nd. — Sailed at daybreak. Passed througli 
the Gulf of Siam; much cooler — the sea is smooth. 

Only thirty-five first-class passengers on board. The 
Navanha is a sister ship to the India, but not so large. 
We have the chief ofBcer and several pleasant gentlemen 
at our table. Our voyage is for ten days^, and one's talkie 
companions can make or mar the trip. We are the only 
Americans. 

Passed some islands at sundown. 

November 3rd. — A fine day, smooth sea, and the 
weather grows colder as v/e get further north. 

November 4th. — Quiet day. 

November 5th. — Sighted a ship about sundown — 
had a wireless message from another P. & 0. steamer, 
saying she was in a monsoon and the sea was high in 
consequence. 

November 6th. — We came in sight of land about 
five o'clock, and soon were passing through the channel 
between mountainous islands in the Yellow Sea, which 
skirts the coast of the Celestial Empire. 

At eight P. M. we anchored outside the harbor of 
Kowloon. The P. & 0. launch came out for the mail. 
We cannot get wharf room until morning, as we are not 
due until that time. 

November 7th. — Arrived at the quay about sunrise, 
but were not docked until nine o'clock. Kowloon is on 
the mainland. To reach Hong Kong we must cross in a 
ferry boat — this takes only a few minutes. 

We went to Cook's office, where we found numerous 



153 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Americans. The sound of their voices was as music to 
our ears. 

We went up to the Peak, the highest point on the 
island. We went to Peak Hotel by cable tram; here we 
engaged coolies to carry us the remainder of the way in 
sedan chairs, two men to each chair. They put the poles 
on their shoulders and walked up the steep incline with 
apparent ease. 

From the Peak we had an excellent view of the whole 
island on which Hong Kong is situated. The island is a 
continuous mountain thirteen hundred feet high. Tlie 
city and bay lie before the eye in a lovely panoramic land- 
scape. The bay shore is defined by a circle of mountains. 
Xowloon is on a peninsula that projects out into the bay. 
It belongs to China, while Hong Kong was ceded to Great 
Britain. The viev/ at night on entering the harbor i? 
quite striking on account of the houses being built on the 
side of the mountain. It is difficult to tell where the 
electric lights leave off and the stars begin. The morn- 
ing view is equally attractive. In construction, the build- 
ings are European, but the signs on most of the shops are 
Chinese. Hong Kong has the appearance of being a busy 
commercial mart. The streets are thronged with coolies 
fetching and carrying, and doing all the work usual to 
draught animals. We saw only one yoke of oxen; they 
were drawing the sprinkling cart. 

Had lunch at Hong Kong Hotel, a very well-arranged 
house. Came back to the steamer for dinner. 

Many of our passengers left the boat here. We met 
the American ladies who came over on the Ellora with 
us. They sailed from Singapore three days previous to 
our sailing; had been up to Canton and were on their 
homeward voyage. 

ISTovEMBER 8th. — Still discharging cargo. Sailed at 
four o'clock. We have taken on several new passengers, 
one young American from Manila who is going to Eng- 



Ten Months on the ^Ying. 153 

land on a vacation. He is an acquaintance of Governor 
Curry, of New Mexico. 

JSTovEMBER 9th, Sunday. — We are sailing along the 
coast of China. It is a ragged coast, and very mountain- 
ous. A stiff breeze makes the waves high; it is quite cool 
tonight. 

November 10th. — We have been in the Yellow Sea 
for some time, but are still in sight of the Chinese coast. 
There are a great many fishing boats and nets are staked 
out in the sea. Today has been so cool we had to don 
our coats. 

We are due to reach Shanghai at eight A. M. tomor- 
row. 

November 11th. — Arrived at Shanghai at one-thirty 
P. M.— Palace Hotel. 

Coming up the Woosung river, one is impressed witli 
the evidence of the great commercial industry of Shang- 
hai, it being the most important commercial center of the 
Far East. It has a population of a million and is the 
chief shipping point of all China. A great many Ameri- 
cans live here; we see and hear them on every side. It 
is more American than any place we have seen. 

November 12th. — We went with Mr. J. of Manila 
for an auto ride. We drove along the Bund and out the 
Nanking Road; also the Bubbling Well Eoad, where the 
Chinese go twice a year to worship at the temple — and 
incidentally to sell their wares; then along the Jessfield 
Eoad, where are situated the finest residences in the Far 
East; out to the Chinese University, the Garden Bridge, 
and on into the gardening district, where there are num- 
erous tombs, like small mounds among the gardens. We 
returned along the French Eoad, through the Chinese dis- 
trict of Shanghai. 



154 Ten Months on the Wing. 

KovEMBER 13th. — Left Shanghai at one P. M. and 
reached Nanking at seven P. M. The railway runs 
through a level country, where truck farming is exten- 
sively carried on. The whole face of the country is cov- 
ered with tombs, built up of small mounds of earth; the 
truck patches are all around them. A few have vegetables 
planted on them. There was great rioting when the rail- 
road started to be built and every tomb desecrated for 
this purpose had to be paid for. 

A chain of low mountains begins on the left from 
this point and continues with several interruptions up to 
Nanking. 

November 14th. — We took a carriage and a Uni- 
versity student as a guide and went sight-seeing. The 
bo3^'s name is William Choy. He is studying English and 
Chinese; speaks English very well. He is a native of th.'^ 
Hawaiian Islands, 

We drove several miles out into the suburbs of the 
city to the tombs of the first Emperors of the Ming dyn- 
asty. Little is left of the temple and monuments erected 
to commemorate Ming. The tomb proper is covered by 
a large artificial mound, planted to trees. There was for- 
merly a grand approach lined with statues of horses, ele- 
phants, lions, et cetera, but only a few remain at present. 

Ee turning, inside the city wall we visited the court 
where, two hundred years ago, students who had attained 
to the B. A. degree came to be examined. There are 
twenty-nine thousand stalls. Here they were obliged to 
spend three days out of every two years, writing their es- 
says. They were without food for these three days, or 
until they had passed the examination. Afterwards, they 
gathered in the large court, where the essays were exam- 
ined and passed upon. These stalls are in rows several 
hundred feet in length, the dimensions of each stall be- 
ing three by five feet. The space included in the grounds 
is all of half a mile in length and a quarter of a mile 
wide. There are watchtowers on the corners. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 1 55 

We carried our tiffin in the carriage and ate it on a 
houseboat on the canal. It consisted of cold meat, bread 
and butter, grapes, - bananas, roasted watermelon seeds, 
stout and tea; the latter was steeped in each cup; a small 
saucer was placed over the cup and the tea was drunk 
from the cup with cover intact. Our napkins were towels 
wrung out of hot water. 

Nanking has a population of over a million people. 
About five hundred missionaries live here and are 'jon- 
sidered to be doing a good work in educating the young; 
but the proletariat are slow to take advange of education. 

Nanking was the scene of a recent conflict between 
the troops of the Government and Eebels, or Progres- 
sives. The Eebels held the city. In August the Federal 
troops laid siege to it for over a fortnight before the 
evacuation. All around us are signs of the fierce bom- 
bardment that took place. The Federals occupied the 
high hills east of the city, from whence they threw shells 
over into the eastern portion, causing great devastation 
and killing many non-combatants as well as soldiers. Mr. 
M., who owns the Bridge Hotel, where we are staying, 
had his hotel sacked and destroyed by fire. They were 
forced to live on houseboats on the river during the siege. 
Many lives were lost on both sides. Of the old Man- 
churian city, that was surrounded by a wall forty miles 
in extent, not a house was left standing after the war of 
1911, when China became a Republic. 

We read in today's paper that Shanghai had been 
declared under martial law and that an attack on the 
Arsenal has been planned for Friday. We go back to- 
night, and it is our sincere hope that we shall not be de- 
layed by the destruction of the railway. 

NovEMBEE 15th. — Eeturned to Shanghai this morn- 
ing; find the weather very cold. 

ISFovEMBEE 16TI-I. — Went for a walk along the Bund, 



156 Ten Months on the Wing. 

November 17th. — Went through Chinatown. 

November 18th. — Last night J. attended an instal- 
lation of officers at the English Lodge of Free-masons. 
He met a Dr. Eancem, of America, who showed him great 
courtesy and introduced him to the Lodge as a thirty- 
third degree Mason. They made him sit in the East. 

This moraing Mrs. E. came and called on me. She 
is an English lady. We went for a drive in her hand- 
some car. Such things make life sweeter. One appreci- 
ates a kindness greatly when in a foreign land. 

November 19th. — We bade farewell to Shanghai at 
eleven A. M. The tender left the quay at twelve, and in 
less than half an hour we were aboard the P. &. 0. 
steamer Oriental, bound for Yokohama, twelve hundred. 
miles from Shanghai. 

There are only three first-class passengers, so wo 
were given the use of two staterooms; one for our dress- 
ingroom and one for a bedroom. 

November 20th. — We passed a mountainous island 
this afternoon. It has been a fine, bright day. 

Are due to arrive at Muji at daybreak, where the 
steamer coals. We will have three hours to spend on 
shore. 

November 81st. — Arrived at Muji in a heavy rain; 
it continued all day, so we could not go ashore. 

The city is prettily located, with a low range of 
mountains as a background. 

We had to dress and make our appearance in the 
salon at seven A. M. in order that the Japanese doctor 
might see that we were well. 

Muji is an imnortant fortification. One is not al- 
lowed to make kodaks under penalty of five years' im- 
prisonment. 

The "Japs" are entirely different in mannei's and 



Ten M nths on the Wing. 1 57 

customs from the Chinese. Their clothing, especially that 
of the men, is quite European. The one exception being 
their shoes, which are worfe than those worn by the Chi- 
nese. They consist of a piece of wood with strings com- 
ing up between the great toe and the second toe to hold 
them on. Often they have two cleats under the foot to 
keep them out of the mud. They- go clattering along the 
street while their shoes, which are called "clappers," s!ide 
around at each step. Some of the women are quite pretty 
and the babies are extremely interesting. They are the 
most polite people whom we have ever seen. The little 
babies even "kotow" to every one, while the "grownup?" 
bow most profoundly, the women getting down on their 
knees and bowing to the floor several times. 

November 22nd. — We came on to Kobe last night 
and arrived at the New Pier about eight o'clock this morn- 
ing. We came ashore at ten-thirty and took the train for 
Kyoto, arriving there about one o'clock. 

A long range of mountains lies to the left of the 
railway; they are beautiful in their autumnal foliage. 
The railway runs through paddy fields most of the way. 
We saw rice curing on bamboo frames, rice ready to har- 
vest and rice sprouting from the ground. 

We reached Kyoto Hotel in time for tiffin. 

At five o'clock we attended a Japanese dance festi- 
val, called the Maple Dance. This took place in their 
new Opera House. Everything in Japan resembles a pic- 
ture, or a piece of picture embroidery, or cut velvet — the 
representative art of Japan. The theatre is built of cedar ; 
the wood is left as nature colored it. A fine curtain, dec- 
orated with a crooked pine tree, hid the stage. A balcony 
extends on two sides and across the b^ck of the building, 
divided by eight screens into spaces of twelve-foot squares. 
The miain floor is divided into small squares like box 
stalls, where families sit and make their tea between acts. 
Eefreshraents, like cake and rice, are also served. 

A charming bridge connects the theatre proper widi 



158 Ten Months on the Wing. 

the entrance hall. This is a characteristic of Japanese 
architecture; is found in many private houses and in all 
the temples. These bridges are sheltered by tiled roofs, 
with curved cornices and corners. 

The first dancers entered with measured tread, wear- 
ing gorgeous kimonos. The prima donna wore one made 
of cloth of gold, with a helmet-like headpiece. Three wo- 
men sat at one side of the stage Avith strange musical in- 
struments, one similar to a banjo Avith strings, and she 
used a flat instrument to pick the chords with. The other 
two took turns about reciting the story of the play, or 
dance. On the back of the stage knelt several girls with 
instruments that resembled boxes, shaped like an ordi- 
nary Chinese lantern. They beat on these with the ends 
of tlieir fingers. The sound emitted was like that made 
by striking a light wooden box on the bottom. As they 
struck the box each one ejaculated, "Eee'ya a aah,' Eee' 
ya a a ah ! Eee ya a a ah oh ! Oh." This was repeated 
until one wanted to scream. In the meantime, the dancer 
stepped around, truly '^like walking on eggs." Occasion- 
ally she stamped on her wooden heel, at the same time 
making a sound with her mouth not unlike that made by 
a cat on the back fence. She would then kneel and "ko- 
tow" to the floor. After many repetitions of this perform- 
ance, she withdrew as she had entered, dragging her feet 
in sloAV measured tread. After this, the two others went 
through almost the same performance. One wore a 
charming kimono of brown, embroidered in gold and lined 
with orange satin. The other, a blue kimono, embroid- 
ered in white in a bamboo design. 

After an intermission of fifteen minutes the curtain 
went up on a very realistic street scene. This dance was 
a sort of comic opera acted between a girl with a basket 
of lettuce and one with two baskets of vegetables on a 
bamboo pole. Their kimonos were not so splendid, but 
they put some life into their actions. Then a second 
curtain was withdrawn and six charming little girls en- 
tered. Their dancing was graceful and pretty, while the 



Ten M 71 til s on the W ing . 159 

stage decorations represented an out-of-door scene of gar- 
dens and electric lights, maple trees, cherry trees and 
waterfalls — very lovely. The performance continued un- 
til midnight, but we only remained for two acts. 

The "Japs" have two of these festivals each year, 
one during cherry time and one when the maples turn 
scarlet in the autumn. And such a scarlet! 

November 23rd. — We employed a carriage and guide 
and drove around to the places of interest. First the main 
gate of the city, Chion-in, said to be one thousand years 
old and the only one of this style nf architecture in Ja- 
pan, To say it is grandly beautiful only half expresses 
it. Built of cedar, unpainted, it represents the best in 
ancient Japanese architecture. A broad stone roadway 
leads up the hill, where there are several Buddhist tem- 
ples. 

The next place we visited was the Chijakuin, head- 
quarters for three thousand temples of the Tendia sect. 
The garden, planted by Sen no Eikyu, is a counterpart 
of the design on Japanese cut velvet. The atmosphere 
seemed to be the same that one sees in a fine water-color. 
The Temple of Chion-in contains numerous ancient 
screens, some of great value. The Sanjusengendo signi- 
fies a Hall of thirty-three Ken, or entrances. The Hall 
is five hundred years old. It contains one thousand and 
one images of Buddha. The central image is of bronze, 
with five hundred wooden images on either side of it, 
each of which has forty-two hands. Besides these, there 
are twenty-eight subordinate gods, such as the God of 
Fire, the God of Thunder, the God of Mirth, et cetera. 
The Kiyomizu Temple is situated at the foot of the moun- 
tain; a stream of clear water ripples through the valley 
at its base, and numerous tea houses rest among the trees. 
The temple is built upon a framework several stories high 
and commands a view that is unrivaled for loveliness. 

Before returning, we went to a private garden whose 
owner is a wealthy silk merchant. It was an ideal spot. 



160 Ten Months on the Wing. 

with its miniature lake and rills^, in which to while away 
a pleasant afternoon. 

A visit to the museum proved interesting. 

Later we drove to the Diabutsu Temple, where there 
is a very large bronze bell which is rung by drawing a 
large beam and letting it drop back until it strikes the 
bell. The tone is melodious and echoes far and near. 

We drove by the University, the Hospital, Spectacle 
Bridge, so named because it has the appearance of a pair 
of spectacles. 

From here we went to the Hoganji Gate, the Gasa- 
kana Pagoda, and through part of the grounds of the an- 
cient palace; then to the shops and private museums, 
where we saw many fine things in bronze, lacquer, dama- 
cine, bamboo, cloisonne, satsuma, wood-carving and in- 
laid work, ivory, embroidery and painting. Kyoto is not- 
ed for its pottery, its embroidery, cut velvet and brocades; 
also its temples, among the most important of which are 
San-ju-san-gen-do, Nishi, Higa-shi, Hoganji, Kiyomidja- 
Dera and Chion-in. 

Kyoto is a Chinese name for "metropolis." When 
first laid out in the imitation of the Imperial City of 
China, it was three miles from the east to the west, three 
and one-fourth miles from north to south. A fine street 
two hundred and eighty feet wide led from the Palace to 
the South Gate. Nine wide streets, called Ichijo, Sanjo, 
and so on up to Kujo (named by numbers) intersected it 
from east to west, similar streets crossing these at right 
angles. The city is situated on the Kimajawa river. The 
Mikado's Palace covers twenty-six acres; is now used only 
on occasions of Shinto festivals. The Emperor visits Ky- 
oto only once annually. Kyoto has a population of four 
hundred and forty thousand and is a typical city of Ja- 
pan. Others are modernized more or less, but Kyoto has 
remained Japanese. Many of its streets are too narrow 
for vehicles; a few are wide enough for autos and car- 
riages if carefully handled. There is a tramway, electnc 
plant, sewers and waterworks, but the buildings are near- 



Ten Months on the Wing. 161 

ly all constructed on Japanese plans. They seem like toy 
houses to uSj and would be too small for our large men to 
move around in. Trains run every hour to Kobe and are 
quite comfortable. 

Osaka is half-way between Kyoto and Kobe and is 
a town of importance in population, as well as commer- 
cially. It is a great manufacturing city. 

The Japanese children are the happiest "kiddies" we 
have ever seen; they are always laughing, and show no 
timidity with strangers, but wave their hands to us as we 
pass by. 

Kyoto has nine hundred temples of diferent sects of 
Buddhism; this is on account of its having been the capi- 
tal for so many years. 

November 24tii. — Left Kyoto at ten o'clock, and 
were back on the boat in time for tiflBn. 

In the afternoon we took a 'rikisha and went around 
Kobe, visiting the temples, but after seeing Kyoto it seem- 
ed less interesting. There are some good shops on the 
main street. Kobe exceeds all the cities in exports and 
imports and is a favorite port of Japan, on account of its 
plesaant climate. It is situated on the sea front, with a 
background of picturesque mountains. (Noted for its 
pretty basketwork.) Under the name of Buko, it had its 
existence in the remote past. There are several temples : 
a Shinto Temple, a Temple of Nanko, a Temple of Nafu- 
kuji. The latter is a Buddhist temple; contains a Buddha 
forty-eight feet high and eighty-five feet around the waist, 
manufactured by Nanjo Shobei, a papermaker. 

The Nunobiki waterfalls are about twenty minutes' 
walk from the hotel. The Female fall is forty-three feet 
high. 

We came back through Theatre street, where there 
are numerous places of amusement; cinematographs and 
theatres with flaming signs in the forms of pictures, 
Kobe is more European than Kyoto. 



163 Ten Months on the Wing. 

November 25th.^ — We sailed at one-thirty P. M. 
Owing to our propeller becoming entangled in the rope of 
the tug boat, we were delayed an hour and a half; had to 
send ashore for a diver to come and disentangle it. 

November 26th. — Had our first gliimpse of Fuji- 
yama this morning; Captain Valentine sent the steward 
to call our attention to it. 

Arrived at Yokohama at twelve-thirty; reached the 
Hotel Pleasanton in time for tiffin. 

Went shopping with Mrs. T., the stewardess of the 
Oriental. 

Found letters from home. 

Ancient shell heaps and pottery dug up in parts of 
the city show that Yokohama was a city in the remote 
past, but it owes its commercial importance to the for- 
eigners who have settled here. It was an insignificant 
fishing village until Commodore Perry anchored off the 
point in 1854. He gave American names to several points 
in the neighborhood. The superiority of its anchorage 
had much to do with its being selected as a foreign port. 
A large and growing native city has sprung up outside the 
foreign settlement. In 1906 there were one thousand and 
eighty-four British and four hundred and eighty-sis 
Americans in the city. Yokoham.a boasts of but few 
sights, proi^erly speaking, but the curio lover will find 
much of interest in the shops. The city possesses a Pub- 
lic Hall, where plays are given and other entertainments 
are held. There is a charming drive along the Mississippi 
Bay and a fine view from the Bluff. 

November 27th. — Thanksgiviing Day Have been 
confined to the room all day with a severe cold. 

The American Embassy at Tokio is giving a recep- 
tion today to all Americans. 

November 28th. — Went to the chemist's for a rem- 
edy for cold. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 163 

iSTovEMBER 29TIT. — There are quite a number of 
Americans in the hotel, and a Scotch lord and lady. 

We have plenty of American magazines to read, and 
they are a treat to us, after being deprived of anything 
American so long. 

December 1st. — We have employed a guide, and 
start this morning on a ten days' tour of Japan, The 
guide's name is K. Katsuyama, meaning "strong moun- 
tain." 

Leaving Yokohama at nine-thirty, we were in Tokio 
in an hour's time. Here we took a motor to the station 
for Niko, a twenty-five minutes' ride. The train runs 
through paddy fields for an hour, then we begin to see 
young forests of pine and cryptomeria. The country be- 
comes more rolling and fields of barley take the place of 
rice. It is a six hours' run from Yokohama to Niko, which 
lies in the mountains. 

Twelve miles from Niko we come to a splendid ave- 
nue of cryptomerias, three hundred 3'ears old. The ave- 
nue was laid out by the old Shogun to facilitate the pil- 
grimages to the sacred mountain of Nantai Zan, where 
one of the Great Shogun's tombs is situated. 

We were in Niko by dark, which comes on at four- 
thirty at this season. Our hotel. The Kanaya, is pleas- 
antly located on the bank of a fine stream, whose waters 
lull us to sleep as they pour over the pebbly bottom. The 
Japanese are good hotel managers and everything is done 
for our comfort, even to putting bed-stoves in our beds 
at night and furnishing padded kimonos with red sashes 
and slippers to wear to the bath. 

December 2nd. — At ten-thirty this morning, Katsu- 
yama announced that as the day gave promise of being 
bright, after the dull rainy weather of yesterday, we had 
better take advantage of the opportunity and go up to 
Chusenze, at the top of the mountain. Soon we were en- 
sconced in three jinrikishas, well tucked in with blankets 



164 Ten Months on the Wing. 

and clad in overshoes^ for the mountain is white with 
snow near the summit. We can see this from our win- 
dow. With eight coolies to pull and push the jinrikishn, 
we started for a four hours' journey. 

Niko makes up in length what it lacks in breadth, 
and it was all of a mile before we reached the city limits. 
However, it is quite common in the small kingdom of 
maples, chrysanthemums and wisteria for country and 
town to run into each other until it is difficult to know 
where one leaves off and the other begins. 

Chusenze lies at the foot of Nantai Zan, eight miles 
from Niko. The road winds and zigzags up the steep 
slopes through tall pines, maples, oaks and beeches. Tho 
road was built in order that the Mikado might come here 
during the heat of summer. It is admirably constructed 
of rocks and gravel, sufficiently wide for 'riikishas. This 
mode of travel has as a recommendation the fact that it 
furnishes employment for a class who would otherwise 
search in vain for a livelihood. Their endurance is aston- 
ishing. They keep up a continual trot, excepting at the 
very steep grades, and appear fresh at the end of the jour- 
ney. Tea houses are provided at intervals, where they 
rest for ten minutes while drinking tea and eating a 
cracker. 

We are too late for the glories of the maple foliage, 
but it does not require a great stretch of the imagination 
to realize how charming was the scene a few weeks ago. 
The river that issues from Lake Chusenze falls in silvery 
cascades down the deep rugged gorge, keeping up a cease- 
less roar. Shortly before arriving at Maple Leaf Inn, we 
turn to the left, where a path leads to the platform com- 
manding a fine view of the Cascade, or Fall of Kagon-nc- 
taki; the height of the fall is two hundred and fifty feet. 
From the edge of the overhanging precipice a path leads 
down under the falls. Like everything else in Japan, 
this fall has a peculiar beauty that we have never seen 
elsewhere. The face of the overhanging cliff falls in folds 
like stone draperies, wdth sharp crenelated edges that re- 



Ten Months on the Wing. 165 

semble colored lace, and to further this peculiar effect, 
nature has colored the rocks in shades of gray and brown 
and yellow. 

We ate a nice lunch at the hotel, which Katsuyama 
had provided, and started down the mountain, reaching 
Niko at four o'clock. 

December 3ed. — This morning we visited the Tem- 
ples and had our picture made standing by the Mihaslii, 
or Sacred Bridge. No one but the Mikado is allowed to 
cross this bridge, which is supposed to mark the place 
where Shodo Shonin, one of the venerated Shoguns, pass- 
ed over the Eiver on a bridge which an Angel formed cf 
two snakes. — (in other words, a rainbow.) 

Niko has beautiful gardens and splendid groves aud 
avenues of cryptomeria; some of these reach as high as 
two hundred and fifty feet into the blue ether, like those 
of our Pacific slopes. 

The Yomei-mon Gate is attractively and ornately 
carved and lacquered and, like all the temples, its roof of 
copper tiles is very artistic and expensive. 

To reach the Mausoleum of leyasus we ascended a 
broad stone stair between two rows of stately cryptomeria. 
On the left is a handsome Torii of granite, twenty-seven 
feet high, with columns three feet six inches in diameter, 
dating from 1648 — a present from Daimo Chikunze. 

Near by is a graceful pagoda of five stories, support- 
ed throu.gh the center by one large column made from a 
single tree. The pagoda rises to the height of one hun- 
dred and four feet. Eound the lower story are life-like 
painted carvings representing the twelve signs of the zo- 
diac. My sign, July, is represented by a horse, while J.% 
October, is a game chicken. 

Opposite the pagoda, standing amidst the trees, is the 
0-Kari-dan, a building used to hold the im.age of leyasu. 

From the Torii, a pavement leads to the foot of the 
steps, crowned by the Ni-O-Mon, or Gate of Two Kings. 
There are two gilt figures repxeif^nting kwo different 



166 Ten Months on the Wing. 

Buddhas, Amainu and Koma-inu. On the sides of the pil- 
lars, at each angle, are representations of a mythological 
animal called a baka. It represents a wolf, with the trunl: 
of an elephant, the eyes of a rhinoceros, the tail of a bull 
and the legs of a tiger. It is supposed to have the powei* 
of everlasting evil. On the heads of the central pillars 
are lions at one end of the building and unicorns at the 
other end. In the niches are fabulous beasts, supposed to 
be endowed with the power of speech. The gate outside 
is decorated with tapirs and peonies. 

Passing through the gate, we came to three hand- 
some buildings used as storehouses. These have artistic 
crescent-shaped roofs of red copper tiling, ornately dec- 
orated in carving and lacquered in dull red and black. 
They are arranged in a zigzag fashion and contain the 
picturer, furniture and utensils employed in treligioua 
ceremonies. One of the buildings is remarkable for the 
two painted, carved elephants in relief. 

On the left is a tall conifer tree, surrounded by a 
stone fence. Some say it is the identical tree which ley- 
asu was in the habit of carrying around with him in a 
flower-pot when the tree was small. 

Close to the tree is a stable, ornamented with mon- 
keys. 

Near by is a Holy Basin, carved from one piece of 
granite — this is for drinking water. It is sheltered by a 
roof erected in 1618. The pediment contains a pair ot 
winged dragons. 

A beautiful building beyond, called the Kyozo, con- 
tains a complete collection of Buddha Scriptures. 

Climbicg a second flight of steps we entered another 
court with stone balustrade. Just inside are two lions, 
represented as 'taking a downward leap, carved from one 
solid stone. On the right stands a bronze candelabrum, 
presented by the King of Luchu, and a bell given by the 
King of Korea, called the "moth-eaten bell," because of 
the hole in the top. On the left stands a beautiful bronza 
lantern from Holland and a Drum Tower of equal value. 



Ten Months on the Wing. le? 

At the extreme end of the platform stands the Temple of 
Yakushi, dedicated to the patron saint of leyasu. The 
exterior is ansterely plain, in black and red; but the in- 
terior ornamentation has no equal in ISFiko. It is a blaze 
of gold and harmonious coloring. Toward the steps that 
lead to the platform stands the beautiful gate called Yo- 
mei-mon. The fence, on either side, is ornamented with 
painted carvings of ducks, wild geese and waterfowls on 
the lower panels, with medallions of mountain birds on 
the upper panels. 

Passing through the Yomei-mon, we enter another 
court, where the priests of Buddha used to recite their 
liturgy at the two great annual festivals. 

One room contains a palanquin used in the proces- 
sion on the first of June, when it is supposed to be occu- 
pied by the spirit deities of leyasu, Hideyoshi and Gori- 
moto. It is so heavy that it requires seventy-five men to 
carry it. 

The next object of importance is the Chinese Gate, 
giving admittance to the shrines. The enclosure is sur- 
rounded by a fence fifty yards long, constructed of gilt 
trellis, with black lacquered footing. The pillars of the 
Kara-mon, or gate, are composed of Chinese wood, inlaid 
with great skill, the subjects being plum trees, dragons 
and bamboo. 

The two figures under the roof represent Chinese 
Sagas, the lower one representing the Emperor Gyo. 

The folding doors of the oratory are decorated with 
arabesque peonies in gilt relief. There are some fine 
eagle panels in the interior apartment. 

To reach leyasu's tomb we climbed a stone stairway 
(200 steps), with a heavy stone balustrade. The tomb is 
shaped like a small pagoda; the body is placed twenty- 
four feet under ground. In front of the tomb stands a 
low stone table, bearing an immense stork with a brass 
candle in its beak. The whole is surrounded by a stone 
wall and sheltered by tall cryptomerias. 

On our return, we passed along an avenue and 



168 Ten Months on the Wing. 

through a fine Torii to a Shinto Temple called Futa-ara- 
Jinva. In one corner of the enclosure stands a bronze 
lantern, called the Bake Mons Toro. Tradition says it 
once had the power of taking the form of a demon and 
annoying the inhabitants of the locality on dark nights, 
until a courageous man attacked it with his sword and 
gave it a wound in its side, which is still visible. 

We next visited the Mausoleum of lemitsa. At the 
foot of the great stone staircase is the residence of the 
priests attached to the temple. Under a beautiful struc- 
ture supported by pillars is a massive granite water basin. 

The oratory and chapel are less magnificent than 
those of leyasu. The large lanterns of Dutch workman- 
ship are worthy of attention. 

We did not go up to the tomb, as it is said to b-e 
inferior to those we have seen. 

A flight of steps leads to the gate called Niten-mon. 
The niches contain statues of Komoka and Jikoka. On 
the inside are statues of the gods of Wind and Thunder. 

After tifhn we walked out to make some kodaks. 
Climbing a broad stone road, we entered a typical Japan- 
ese garden with a miniature lake, surrounded by weeping 
cherry trees. Up a small flight of steps we came to a 
shrine where women offer up prayers to the gods of Moth- 
erhood. Beside it is a red lacquered building, called 
Kaisan-do, dedicated to Shodo Shonin, the pioneer of the 
mountains. 

Passing out of the garden, we followed the lovely 
avenue of cryptomerias and entered a fine public garden, 
with numerous tea houses, amidst a surrounding of som- 
ber trees and small lakes, where summer visitors spend 
the afternoon drinking tea and lying in the hammocks. 

After a visit to a postal-card shop, we returned to 
the hotel. 

Katsuyama is an efficient guide. He has given us 
a Japanese drama to read, pertaining to things we are 
to see later. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 169 

Decembee 4th. — ^We left Niko at ten A. M. by-jin- 
rikisha for the first station, a distance of twelve miles 
tlirough the great avenue of cryptomerias. Katsuyania 
came on by train and met us here with the luggage. 

Later we had tiffin on the train, prepared by our 
guide. 

Arrived at Tokio at four-thirty PL M. — Imperial 
Hotel. We find this a very comfortable establishment: 
came by 'rikisha — a ride of forty minutes from the sta- 
tion. 

December 5th. — We went by carriage to Asakusa 
Park and Temple Kwanzeon, passing near the Imperial 
Palace, which Avas formerly a Shogun castle, surrounded 
by three deep moats; the outer one has been filled in to 
make room for a broader street. There are several very 
old houses of ancient Japanese architecture, preserved as 
memorials. Y<o one is admitted to the interior of the 
Palace grounds. At one corner of the moat is a pine tree 
over two hundred years old, squat and grotesque, as are 
most Japanese trees. 

The next place of interest was the War Museum, 
where are preserved many trophies of conquests from 
their wars. One object of interest is a cannon, made 
shortly after Admiral Perry "opened the gates" of Japan. 

We went chiefly to see the Nogi collection, which is 
of great interest on account of the man's history. After 
his experience at Port Arthur, he felt that he had made 
a serious mistake in being too hasty to force an issue and 
had been reckless of the lives of his soldiers. Both his 
sons lost their lives and, while he made no sign of his 
grief, still he must have felt that life held little for him 
and his aged wife. Then, when his beloved sovereign 
passed away, he felt that there was really nothing left. 
Half an hour before he and his wife committed hari kari 
(suicide) they had the photographer make a picture of 
each. After all had departed, they closed the doors and 
when a few moments later the attendants attempted to 



170 Ten Months on the W ing . 

enter, all were locked. x\n entrance was made through 
the rear of the house, but they had both crossed the Bor- 
der to join the Mikado on his spirit journey. The cus- 
tom of hari kari belonged peculiarly to the Samurai and 
Avas considered a most commendable act. Life-size pho- 
tographs of Nogi and his wife, together with the gar- 
ments they wore at the time of their death, the sword 
and lady's hari kari knife are enclosed in a glass case. 
Photographs of their two sons occupy places on the wall 
near by. 

There is a splendid Torii in the park, erected at the 
close of the Chinese-Japanese war. It is purely Japanese 
in style. This was to make the whole torii of one tree, 
one column of the trunk, the second section made the 
top and the third made the other side-column. The 
Chinese-Japanese torii is a combination of the two styles, 
has a convex top, often two convex pieces are used. 

We visited the new museum, containing a splendid 
collection of Japanese art in lacquer, damascene, porce- 
lain, carving, weaving, ancient court robes, saddles and 
musical instruments, besides swords and articles of house- 
hold utility; also an interesting collection of Chinese, 
Korean and Formosan workmanship. 

Later we drove to the Shiba Park and Temples, the 
latter marvels of Japanese art. The coffered ceiling iu 
the oratory is a blaze of gold and minute delicate floral 
traceries. On the walls are conventional pictures of lions. 
The frieze, a carved painted design in M^ood, is worthy of 
especial notice; the lilies are quite natural. 

Outside the court are numerous bronze lanterns; 
nearby is an ornamental gate, called the Chuku-zaku- 
mon, or Gate of the Imperial Tablet. 

In the further courts are two hundred and twelve 
stone lanterns, dating from 1716 A. D., the gift of Dai- 
mos, as a mark of respect to the memory of the departed 
lord and master. 

The Shoguns were the feudal lords of Japan until 
forty-four years ago, when the civil war put an end to 



Ten Months on the Wing. 171 

feudalism and the government was united under one head 
and the Shoguns were forced, by a law something like the 
present laws in England, to sell their lands. 

Back of the Temple is situated the Tomb of Talm- 
gawa lY. A cherry tree hangs over it, commemorative 
of his love of flowers. The tomb is surrounded on three 
sides by trees. The mellow light of the sun falls like a 
benediction through the verdant foliage, an ideal spot for 
a last resting place. The other tombs are of simple stone. 

One mile further on stands the Buddhist temple of 
Sangokuji, where the forty-seven Eonin lie buried. These 
forty-seven men banded together to avenge the death of 
their lord. After much difficulty they succeeded in de- 
stroying his eneni}^, after which the whole number com- 
mitted hari kari. (This word means, literally, "cut 
belly.") We have just read the drama of "The Forty- 
seven Eonin," written by Takeda Izumo, Migoshi, Sha- 
raka and Namiki Senya, and translated by Jeikchi Inouye. 

December 6th. — We left Tokio by train at nine- 
thirty A. M. and came to Kudzu, passing through Yoko- 
hama. 

At Kudzu we had tiffin, which Katsuyama had 
brought with him. 

We came by motor to Miyanoshita, arriving at Hotel 
Fujiya about three-thirty. 

The situation is very inviting. Many business men 
and their families come up here in the summer, as the 
hot springs are considered very beneficial for kidney trou- 
ble and rheumatism. The altitude is one thousand three 
hundred and seventy-seven feet above sea level, making it 
a delightful place during the heat of summer. Even at 
this season people come for the week's end, 

December 7th. — We went to Hakone by 'rikisha 
this morning. This place is two thousand and seventy- 
eight feet above sea. We went for six and one-half miles 
up hill all the way. We left the hotel at nine-thirty and 



172 Ten Months on the Wing. 

reached Hakone by noon. The coolies went in a trot all 
the way up and back; how they endure it is too much 
for me to solve. 

The first objects of interest are three monuments, 
erected to the two Saga brothers and Taro Gozen, a Geisha 
girl, who v^as mistress to the elder of the two brothers. 
Through his infatuation for his brother's mistress, the 
younger brother murdered the elder. Eighteen years 
after, the son of the elder brother killed his uncle and 
avenged the death of his father — tlien committed hari 
kari. This occurred two hundred and fifty years ago. 

A few paces further is a Buddha image, carved in 
relief on the face of the rock. 

Of greater interest is the colossal image of Jijo, 
carved in relief on a block of andesite, ranked among the 
triumphs of the Japanese chisel. 

Hakone is pleasantly located at the head of a charm- 
ing lake, with Fujiyama in the background. When there 
is no wind and the lake is quiet, His Majestic reflection 
may be seen in the pelucid waters. This is one of the 
most impressive sights we have seen. 

There is a good hotel, where we provided ourselves 
with an excellent lunch. Here some one stole J.'s scarf 
while we ate — the first thing we have lost on the tour. 

December 8th. — Took a long walk through the town 
of Miyanoshita, down past the waterfall to the Gold Fish 
teahouse, Avhere we fed the tame fish; they come swarm- 
ing up when one claps one's hands. 

After tiffin we went to Ojizoka, or Big Hell, throe 
thousand four hundred and seventy-eight feet above sea 
and five miles from the hotel. We went in chairs carried 
on the shoulders of coolies — four men for J. and three for 
me. They changed places at the chairs once going up 
and once coming back, each set carrying me half of the 
way. They complained of J.'s weight. 

The trail is up a precipitous slope, through a dense 
forest of young trees, and then through tall grass. The 



Ten Months on the Wing, 173 

path is often on the ragged edge of a deep chasm. But 
the coolies are very sure-footed and walk with even tread, 
so one does not feel any apprehension of a fall. 

The whole gorge reeks with sulphur fumes; vegeta- 
tion decreases as one ascends. The aspect of the scene be- 
comes weird and desolate. 

On reaching the end of the path, one can go no far- 
ther, on account of stepping into the treacherous crust, 
where it is too thin to sustain one's weight. Numerous 
lives have been lost by a false step. The whole surface 
is rumbling and sputtering like an immense caldron, witJi 
yellow sulphur bubbling out at the crevices and the steam 
rolling up in thick clouds of vapor. One might well imag- 
ine he was over the lake of fire and brimstone, with which 
we were formerly threatened for our evil deeds. 

Coming down is much easier than going up and the 
coolies made quicker time. 

The scenery from the opposite side was very lovely. 

December 9th. — We left Miyanoshita at nine-thirty 
A. M. Went by jinrikisha to the tram station at Go- 
modo. 

Leaving the tram at Koduza, we traveled by train 
for an hour, then changed to the tram line that connects 
Yokohama with Kamakura. 

Arrived at Kahin-in Hotel for tiffin. 

Afterwards we went to see the famous Daibutsu, or 
Sitting Buddha, considered the most majestic symbol of 
Buddhism in Japan. It creates the impression of spirit- 
ual peace that comes from perfect wisdom and subjugation 
of all passion. It is forty-seven feet seven inches in 
height ; ninety-seven feet in circumference ; face, seven- 
teen feet nine inches broad ; the eyes of pure gold. It is 
formed of sheets of bronze, cast separately, braized to- 
gether and finished off with the chisel. The interior, be- 
ing hollow, contains a shrine, and a ladder leads up into 
the head. Only the attendant priest is allowed to photo- 
graph it; this he does for a small fee. 



174 Ten Months on the Wing. 

The temple known as Hose-no-Kwanon, or the Stand- 
ing Buddha, is quite near. The image is inside the tem- 
ple. A small fee is charged by the priest for opening tlie 
door and furnishing two lanterns. These are pulled up 
by a double cord in front of the face of the image. It is 
constructed of wood and gilded with gold; it falls faf 
short of the Daibutsu in every way, but more especially 
in the expression, which fails to convey any special meas- 
ing. The height is thirty feet and over. 

From the eminence on which the temple stands a 
fine view is obtained of the town, which lies in a secluded 
nook on the seashore, hidden among pines and crypto- 
meria. 

We made a long detour and came home by the Tem- 
ple of Hachiman (or the god of war), dating from the 
twelfth century. It occupies an imposing position on a 
hill and is approached by an avenue of pines. Near it is 
a splendid stone bridge and three handsome Torii. A 
broad flight of stairs leads to the temple proper. The 
tree-covered hill at its back forms an appropriate setting 
and completes the perfect picture. 

Kamalcura was once the popular capital of eastern 
Japan from the end of the twelfth to the middle of the 
fifteenth century, but has shrunk to a quiet seaside vil- 
lage. It is now a favorite resort for the people of Tokio 
and Yokohama. 

Decembee 10th. — Our tour of Japan is ended with 
today. We returned to Yokohama this morning, and after 
tiffin went by 'rikishas around the Bluff and Mississippi 
Bay. 

Decembee 11th. — Went shopping this afternoon, 
then took a walk on the Bund. 

Decembee 12th. — It rained all day; we had to re- 
main indoors. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 175 

December 13th. — Went shopping to buy a blouse 
to wear home. 

Katsuyama came and brought us such a lovely cakij 
to take home with us. 

December 14th. — ^Left Yokohama at three P. M., 
but did not get out of the harbor until five o'clock. 

Just outside the breakwater we stopped two hours, 
while the officers hunted for stowaways; they found none. 

December 15th. — Sea very rough; had to stay in 
bed to keep from being seasick. 

December 16th. — Still rough, but ate three meals 
in the dining salon. 

December 17th. — Ean into a typhoon, or rather it 
ran into us. The sea was a raging wilderness of tumultu- 
ous, mountainous waves; the wind blew from seventy-five 
to eighty miles an hour. The waves leaped high over the 
deck and against our window. The water came in the 
ventilator at the ceiling. The carpet was dripping wet. 
I stayed in bed all day ! The suitcases flew around the 
cabin and the cliair on which J. sat shot across the floor, 
upsetting him on the couch. Upstairs in the Palm Eoom 
five men lost their balance and fell over among the palms, 
all piled up together. Fortune favored us in the fact 
that the storm waiiat our stern, and drove the good ship 
forward. The Shinyo Maru is a sturdy boat and hand- 
somely finished throughout. The cuisine is excellent, the 
service all that could be desired ; but she is a "high roller" 
when the sea is rough. 

December 18th. — A smooth sea, though not yet like 
a "calm May morning;" we are all able to be on deck 
once more. 

December 19th. — We have made the acquaintance 



176 Ten Months on the W ing . 

of several pleasant people. Those at our table are Cap- 
tain Smith, the commander; Mr. Ernshaw, delegate to 
Congress from Manila; Mr. Leech, who established the 
Printers' Training School in the Philippines; Mr. H. 
Van Wickevoort Crommolin Van Berkenrode, from Hol- 
land; Mrs. Caldwell, of San Diego, and Miss O'Eourk, of 
Oakland. We have a jolly time. The Captain gave us a 
tea on deck. There are also some pleasant people from 
Philadelphia and New York. 

December 20th. — A beautiful day, with a smooth 
sea. We crossed the Meridian at four-thirty P. M. This 
is Saturday, but tomorrow will be Saturday again, and 
the 20th, as today. 

December 20th. — This has been a day of forty- 
eight hours. 

Had a moving picture show tonight on the stern 
deck, with music and refreshments. We have a victrola, 
three pianos and an orchestra, with dancing on deck every 
night. 

December 21st, Sunday. — Attended divine service 
at eleven o'clock; sermon by Mr. Verity; solo by the ship's 
doctor. 

Tonight we had some fine singing by Madame Thue, 
a jSTorwegian lady. 

The "Japs" among the second-class passengers gave 
a theatrical performance that lasted until eleven o'clock. 
It was very interesting to us, especially the making up on 
the stage in front of the audience. In one act they were 
about to hang an innocent man; when his innocence was 
proven, the prosecuting attorney committed hari kari. 

December 22nd. — We passed Bird Island this after- 
noon, "and thereby hangs a tale.'' 

A ship was passing this island some years ago, and 
saw a light on the precipitous point. Thinking it a light- 



Ten Months on the Wing. 177 

house, they approached, and after much difficulty suc- 
ceeded in making a landing, only to discover that the 
light came from the phosphorus of human bones. These 
bones are now in the Museum at Honolulu, together with 
a leather belt with the name of John Miller stamped on 
it. (A good sailors' yarn.) 

We are due to arrive at Honolulu at ten A. M. Here 
we spend twenty-four hours. 

December 23ed, Monday. — We arrived at Honolulu 
earlier than we expected, but it was eleven o'clock before 
we got through the "red tape'' and went on shore. 

Several of the party hired a car and went sightsee- 
ing. We had with us Dr. and Mrs. Thue, a young Eng- 
lishman and a young man from I^orway. Honolulu is 
certainly a lovely city, with splendid roads and pictur- 
esque mountains. We went to the Devil's Punch Bowl, 
where we had a commanding view of the city and beach; 
then out to Pali, where Kamehameha drove his enemies 
over the cliff to their death. Here the scenery is wild and 
grand. We visited the fine museum and the Aquarium, 
famous for the beauty of its fish. They are most wonder- 
ful, resembling birds and butterflies in shape and color- 
ing. On to the Waikiki Beach, then back to the Alexan- 
der Young Hotel for tiffin. 

The day was bright and soft, and it seemed so good 
to be on terra firma again, and to know that it is a part 
of our Great United States. 

Have taken on several new passengers, and left sev- 
eral here for the next ship. 

December 25th. — Christmas on the sea. Captain 
Smith did everything possible to make it a day of good 
cheer for all. The dining salon was a bower of green, 
festooned v/ith fiags of all nations. A Christmas tree, 
with all the usual decorations, a fine lunch and a dinner 
that was a banquet — turkey, fruit, cake and champagne. 
Each table contained a large ornamental cake, besides 



178 Ten Months on the Wing. 

flowers and numerous favors^ such as paper snappers, 
boutonnieres, candy and special menu cards. 

After dinner we had a moving picture show on deck, 
interspersed with music by the orchestra. We were served 
ice cream, cake and lemonade. 

We have enjoyed all the Captains on our tour, but 
Captain Smith is the most genial and delightful host of 
them all. He has the tact and good breeding of the 
model officer, and makes everyone feel comfortable and 
at home. 

December 26th. — It rained part of the day. 

Decembee 27th. — Spent a quiet day. 
Had an impromptu concert tonight. A Denver lady 
played and we all sang, Captain Smith joining in. 

December 28th, Sunday. — Had services at eleven 
o'clock. Mr. Gale, a gentleman from my old home, Peta- 
luma, California, officiated. He is a missionary to China. 

At eight o'clock Madame Thue favored us with her 
lovely voice in several charming songs. Miss Veloso, of 
Manila, played her accompaniments. 

December 29th. — We have all been busy packing. 
Are due to arrive at San Francisco at nine A. M. 

December 30th. — Docked at San Francisco at eleven- 
thirty. 

Mrs. M. and daughter met us at the wharf. We were 
greatly surprised and pleased to meet old friends after an 
absence of nine months and a half. 

It was pouring rain and our luggage (baggage it is 
now) was soaking wet. It took an hour to get through 
at the Custom House, although we had no trouble in tl?e 
way of duties. 

It was one o'clock ere we reached the St. Francis 
Hotel. 



Ten Months on the Wing. 179 

December 31st. — A severe storm is raging all along 
the Pacific coast, and 'Frisco is getting a good share. We 
are rejoicing over being on shore before the storm set in. 

We went shopping in spite of the rain. 

January Ist^ 1914. — Took dinner with Cousin G. 
and family at Eichmond. It was a treat after the hotel 
fare of so many months. 

January 2x0. — Went shopping in the morning. 

Mrs. M. came and took me to lunch at Stuart's Ho- 
tel, then I went home with her to Berkeley and spent the 
afternoon. 

In the evening went to a "movie." 

January 3rd. — Drove through Golden Gate Park 
and around by Cliff House to see the ravages made by 
the storm. The steel pier was almost entirely torn away. 
The sea is still tempestuous and the waves are coming in 
like white horses charging in battle array. 

We went to see "Little Women" at the Cort Theatre; 
enjoyed it very much; most all the actors did their parts 
well, and Jane Marberry as "Joe" was excellent. 

January 4th. — Start for home this evening. 

Stopped at Grand Canyon. Of all the wonders we 
have seen, this is the most wonderful of them all; it is 
not one of the seven wonders, but "the wonder of the 
world." 

Arrived home on January 8th. We were met at the 
station by many of our dear friends with smiles of wel- 
come. 

So ends our journey of 1913. 

Adios. 



jSTote : — For much of the ancient history and data in this 
little journal I am indebted to Karl Baedeker, John 
Murry and Thomas Cook. 



